(09-29-2019 )DDlighttruck Wrote: [ -> ]Top picture is all the way to the top.
Engine running, push all the way to the bottom, let go, that’s where it wants to stop on it’s journey back to the top
So my turbo is scrap, from what you’re saying...
Thanks for taking the time to walk me through this.
It is likely it will not always go all the way exactly 100% back to the top position on its own with engine just idling sometimes (maybe within 20% or so though/rough guess)... BUT if it is sticking hard at 100% during engine idle with the actuator disconnected ... it is definitely hanging up, something is bad!. A healthy CM870 turbo, the arm will drift back up on its own most the way back to the top when you let go of it.
It didn’t feel sticky or rough, whether by hand or with the actuator.
If I moved it to the up position, it would stay there.
I’m trying to remember now, I think I made sure it was up before firing the motor. The only time I would have to move it up was to get it past where it would stick returning on its own
if the engine is running and you push the vgt closed by hand it takes some force to push it and keep it there. you will also hear the engine change sounds and the turbo start spooling up - its more noticeable with cruise at 1000. if you let go of the arm the engine will push it open back to very close to its starting position.
(09-30-2019 )Unilevers Wrote: [ -> ]if the engine is running and you push the vgt closed by hand it takes some force to push it and keep it there. you will also hear the engine change sounds and the turbo start spooling up - its more noticeable with cruise at 1000. if you let go of the arm the engine will push it open back to very close to its starting position.
I think I need someone with more experience to check this out then, before I condemn any parts
Thanks
(09-26-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote: [ -> ]Cummins Insite has a on/off test to check all the plumbing from the control module to the actuator.
I had a shop give me a hand with this today. It appears as if my actuator is leaking air, but everything else appears to be ok.
Thanks for the info on how to test the other half, from the controller to the actuator.
They said don’t worry about the turbo, just replace the actuator.
I just had to do this to my 870 also. Cost $432 for OEM actuator (hope you get a better deal), I don't think you should bother with rebuild kit. If you disassemble yours it will be obvious why.
$432 isn't bad. I paid $500+ from Harrisburg Cummins. Use Cummins genuine only. It is as critical of a part as internal engine parts. Don't skimp on quality.