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I even used it on front gear cover with the original rubber gasket after my rebuild, including the top corner where the gasket overlaps and can leak. Just anti-seize and nothing else and no leaks at all.

Regular silver stuff, right?

(12-17-2020 )AKDoug Wrote: [ -> ]Regular silver stuff, right?

I used the permatex aluminum anti-seize.

This is a problem common to any engine with a plastic rear water pump cover that sits outside in the cold up north. Happens lots up here. The real solution is to have a steel rear cover machined before you install a new water pump. Plastic contracts way more than steel and the shrinkage allows, sometimes, ALL coolant to be lost over night. After this a couple of times I took the water pump off, had a steel ring machined and fitted inside the lip of the plastic insert. This was a cheaper fix than machining an entire steel piece. The fit needs to be an interference fit at room temp, where the steel ring just slips in when the assembly is placed in recently boiled water. I have some great pictures of this mod which has worked flawlessly so far down to -42 Deg C

[attachment=9113][attachment=9114][attachment=9115]

This fix means I can actually just turn on my engine heater and start the truck, whereas if all coolant is lost, and adding more just runs out the bottom, the options are limited. By the way, let the air out of your coolant heater before firing it up if you'd like your heat chamber to not crack... (there is a small purge screw on top of mine).

will anti-seize be good for lower radiator hoses, what is the best solution for leaking hoses?
replace the clamp - tried 50% it still leaks
new hose is not always available so
old hoses are sometimes brittle and tough to seal
any thoughts?

(11-28-2023 )ktblogistics Wrote: [ -> ]will anti-seize be good for lower radiator hoses, what is the best solution for leaking hoses?
replace the clamp - tried 50% it still leaks
new hose is not always available so
old hoses are sometimes brittle and tough to seal
any thoughts?

I've double clamped them before, but ultimately replacing the hose usually cures it. I've never used antiseize or anything else besides coolant on a hose. The cold is where the weak points start showing.

(11-28-2023 )ktblogistics Wrote: [ -> ]will anti-seize be good for lower radiator hoses, what is the best solution for leaking hoses?
replace the clamp - tried 50% it still leaks
new hose is not always available so
old hoses are sometimes brittle and tough to seal
any thoughts?

Replace the hose and clamps but before you do sand the pipe ends that the hose goes onto so it has a smooth surface.

(09-26-2023 )Hamish Wrote: [ -> ]This is a problem common to any engine with a plastic rear water pump cover that sits outside in the cold up north. Happens lots up here. The real solution is to have a steel rear cover machined before you install a new water pump. Plastic contracts way more than steel and the shrinkage allows, sometimes, ALL coolant to be lost over night. After this a couple of times I took the water pump off, had a steel ring machined and fitted inside the lip of the plastic insert. This was a cheaper fix than machining an entire steel piece. The fit needs to be an interference fit at room temp, where the steel ring just slips in when the assembly is placed in recently boiled water. I have some great pictures of this mod which has worked flawlessly so far down to -42 Deg C



This fix means I can actually just turn on my engine heater and start the truck, whereas if all coolant is lost, and adding more just runs out the bottom, the options are limited. By the way, let the air out of your coolant heater before firing it up if you'd like your heat chamber to not crack... (there is a small purge screw on top of mine).

You should have a bunch of them made and sell them.