Hi I’ve got 2011 cm871 with about 40k on an out of frame new head and reman block if it matters. I’ve been losing coolant and the the past 2 oil samples show eleveated sodium levels. Been battling this for a while since the out of frame. Oil always looked good no milky or slugging. I dropped oil pan and pressurized the cooling system to 13-14 psi and saw tiny bit of coolant coming out of a galley on the passenger side of the block near the back. I brakeleened and dried out all around cylinder to confirm coolant wasn’t running down the liner and into the galley before it ran down. Couldn’t really see anything with a borescope as far as cracks go. So I drained coolant and pulled the oil cooler off to see if there were any cracks on the block or gaskets for oil cooler. Everything seemed fine. Granted oil cooler was replaced about 10k mi ago. Also truck was de mandated about 3k mi after rebuild. Egr cooler was removed and i replaced it with that water bypass tube to keep coolant flowing to the rear. Vgt is still intact. Any help would be appreciated
Id be willing to bet a liner is slipped, given the reman head.
(06-29-2023 )hookliftpete Wrote: [ -> ]Id be willing to bet a liner is slipped, given the reman head.
Well the head is new just the block is a reman. But I’m not seeing any coolant leaking passed the liners.
Just my own thoughts...
given that it has just been rebillt and already having issues, I have little to no faith in it... because 90% of all shops that rebuild ISX's any more are beyond completely clueless on how to rebuild them any more.
Here is what should have actually been done... but I doubt that anyone bothered to do much of any of it besides slapping a bunch of new parts at it ...
ref:
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid70606
The coolant flows into the oil cooler circuit first, after the water pump .. then thru passages towards the liners.
If it absolutely is not a liner and the coolant is not coming from the liners, then it is seeping from the top of the oil cooler curcuit.. or a crack in the block between the oil cooler circuit and the feed ports to the liners.
However, given that most shops are beyond incompetent any more.. maybe it is seeping around a liner, and then running to the side before coming down?.. just make damn sure is all.
And where did this reman block come from??? .. A cummins OEM certified short-bolck???.. or from some place that machines on them?.
As well, assume the delete program is bad.. very very bad .. until you have it reviewed here on the forum.
copy the program out of the ecm and e-mail it to me for we proper review of what someone has done inside it. Bad delete and harmful programming is 90% of what you get when you have that type of work done, and the engine suffers greatly with a severely shortened engine life all while the truck owner most of the time, swears it runs great.
(06-29-2023 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]...
And where did this reman block come from??? .. A cummins OEM certified short-bolck???.. or from some place that machines on them?.
...
I ordered everything from {garbage after-market sales} parts. Reman block, new head, rebuild kit. All from {same place}. Maybe should have went oem but i was trying them out. I heard of good success from people I know. Since ive I had issues with oem parts from cat on my other truck. Ecm programming was done by another shop in my area.
Just bought a laptop so I’ll figure out how to copy it and email to you. Thank you
Is that the back corner on the LH side of the engine? Looks like the spot where oil drains from the head to the pan. If so, remove the rocker cover and pressurise the coolant. Might have a crack in the top of the head or an issue with a freeze plug.
(06-29-2023 )DasAutomatik Wrote: [ -> ]...
I ordered everything from {garbage after-market sales} parts. Reman block, new head, rebuild kit. All from {same place}. Maybe should have went oem but i was trying them out. I heard of good success from people I know. Since ive I had issues with oem parts from cat on my other truck. Ecm programming was done by another shop in my area.
Just bought a laptop so I’ll figure out how to copy it and email to you. Thank you
this is exactly what people get when they try to save a few $$$ by not going OEM only on these red engines.
I have never seen much success with after-garbage parts on cummins stuffs. they are unlike those yellow motors and most things are throw-away once they come apart... ESPECIALLY THE HEAD!!!.
You gambled and lost it seems.. and now you have saved zero moneys by choosing garbage components that are not directly from the manufacturer. One can only hope hope like all h$ell that you have all the extra moneys to now do it all over again, and that you have learned your lesson.
As far as red engines go... IF IT COUNTS .. THEN IT SHOULD ONLY BE CERTIFIED OEM COMPONENTS ONLY!!!. ANYTHING LESS = A FAILED HEADACHE AND MONEYS THROWN AWAY AT THE END OF THE DAY!!
(06-30-2023 )Signature620 Wrote: [ -> ]Is that the back corner on the LH side of the engine? Looks like the spot where oil drains from the head to the pan. If so, remove the rocker cover and pressurise the coolant. Might have a crack in the top of the head or an issue with a freeze plug.
I thought the same but according to this print out I got from kw the oil drain back is on the right rear. But I’ll still check to make sure
(06-30-2023 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ] (06-29-2023 )DasAutomatik Wrote: [ -> ]...
I ordered everything from {garbage after-market sales} parts. Reman block, new head, rebuild kit. All from {same place}. Maybe should have went oem but i was trying them out. I heard of good success from people I know. Since ive I had issues with oem parts from cat on my other truck. Ecm programming was done by another shop in my area.
Just bought a laptop so I’ll figure out how to copy it and email to you. Thank you
this is exactly what people get when they try to save a few $$$ by not going OEM only on these red engines.
I have never seen much success with after-garbage parts on cummins stuffs. they are unlike those yellow motors and most things are throw-away once they come apart... ESPECIALLY THE HEAD!!!.
You gambled and lost it seems.. and now you have saved zero moneys by choosing garbage components that are not directly from the manufacturer. One can only hope hope like all h$ell that you have all the extra moneys to now do it all over again, and that you have learned your lesson.
As far as red engines go... IF IT COUNTS .. THEN IT SHOULD ONLY BE CERTIFIED OEM COMPONENTS ONLY!!!. ANYTHING LESS = A FAILED HEADACHE AND MONEYS THROWN AWAY AT THE END OF THE DAY!!
Another one bites the dust. Lol. Definitely a hard lesson learned. Hopefully this truck won’t be a complete tear down again.