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+--- Thread: Side by side pics of Dura___ {after-garbage brand} CAC and my OEM CAC (/showthread.php?tid=9230)
Side by side pics of Dura___ {after-garbage brand} CAC and my OEM CAC - Redland1 - 11-24-2023
I’ve read on here about the Dura___ {after-garbage brand} CAC’s being bad because they have less flow then OEM.Here is a pic of my OEM 03’ international 9900i CAC and the {after-garbage brand} which is supposed to flow like OEM.Let me know what you think.
RE: Side by side pics of Duralite Eliminator CAC and my OEM CAC - tree98 - 11-25-2023
Look at how much smaller the internal passages are on the aftermarket one. They look about half as big as the OEM !!! I wouldn't use that if I were you.
RE: Side by side pics of Duralite Eliminator CAC and my OEM CAC - hhow55 - 11-25-2023
Steer clear.......Go oem.
RE: Side by side pics of Dura-garbage CAC and my OEM CAC - Rawze - 11-25-2023
I guess there is a sucker born every day...
What a complete waste of moneys!!!>..
YES-- THEY ARE ABSOLUTE GARBAGE AND ARE WELL KNOWN TO BE RESTRICTIVE AS ALL H#ELL!!>.
- I guess he has never seen the boots on the intake collapse from those garbage dura-suck CAC units because they are so damn restrictive!>
I HAVE SEEN IT FIRST HAND!!!. --- EVEN WITH TRUCKS THAT HAVE SHOWED UP HERE AT MY OWN HOUSE!!!.
... Also seen the turbo have to works its utter arsse off just to make flow at the intake during higher boost loads.
The fuel mileage also goes to s#it quite often too!. - I am half temped to delete this entire thread, just to save the forum from someone's total stupidity there!!!. You have been warned!.
have a read thru this thread: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=389&pid=2794#pid2794
and here is another brand that I would not use...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=1773&pid=15105#pid15105
RE: Side by side pics of Duralite Eliminator CAC and my OEM CAC - Redland1 - 11-26-2023
It was $4,000 for an OEM one.I will probably take the one that I took out to see if it could get welded.
RE: Side by side pics of Dura___ {after-garbage brand} CAC and my OEM CAC - Rawze - 11-26-2023
(11-26-2023 )Redland1 Wrote: It was $4,000 for an OEM one.I will probably take the one that I took out to see if it could get welded.
Mine is very similar to that one's design. - It only cost me about $1300 a few years ago. I know prices have gone up for things.. but that price you quoted sounds a bit too steep. - You should shop around at different OEM places and see if you can find it at a lower cost.
And yeah.. If it were $4k for me and no getting around it, .. I would find a repair shop for it.. or buy a damn welder for less than 1/3 that cost and/or use those low-melt aluminum rods + map-gas, practice on something, and fix/patch it up it myself.
The CAC also does not have to be completely water-tight. It only has to not leak down by more than 10-psi (starting at 30-psi) in one minute. Even a not-so-perfect repair, as long as its strong and holds up, and does not restrict flow by very much, would be ok for them.
-------
Also, you need to find out what caused that damage and prevent it from happening again. They don't fail like that unless the front end structure was stressed abnormally.
You see how rusted up that A/C cooler mounting flange is on the back side?... it was also shifting around too under some kind of excessive stresses.
On internationals, the hood shock is a big culprit for the CAC unit going bad.. as the hood weight hangs directly off the top bracket for the CAC, stressing it. -- AND Allowing the hood to bounce open (lazyness, or in a hurry when opening the hood) causes the CAC to get damaged like that. A bad hood shock makes amplifies this problem greatly.
here are some tips for installing CAC/radiator units so that they last a long time...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=7832&pid=68664#pid68664
RE: Side by side pics of Dura___ {after-garbage brand} CAC and my OEM CAC - Redland1 - 12-01-2023
(11-26-2023 )Rawze Wrote:(11-26-2023 )Redland1 Wrote: It was $4,000 for an OEM one.I will probably take the one that I took out to see if it could get welded.
Mine is very similar to that one's design. - It only cost me about $1300 a few years ago. I know prices have gone up for things.. but that price you quoted sounds a bit too steep. - You should shop around at different OEM places and see if you can find it at a lower cost.
And yeah.. If it were $4k for me and no getting around it, .. I would find a repair shop for it.. or buy a damn welder for less than 1/3 that cost and/or use those low-melt aluminum rods + map-gas, practice on something, and fix/patch it up it myself.
The CAC also does not have to be completely water-tight. It only has to not leak down by more than 10-psi (starting at 30-psi) in one minute. Even a not-so-perfect repair, as long as its strong and holds up, and does not restrict flow by very much, would be ok for them.
-------
Also, you need to find out what caused that damage and prevent it from happening again. They don't fail like that unless the front end structure was stressed abnormally.
You see how rusted up that A/C cooler mounting flange is on the back side?... it was also shifting around too under some kind of excessive stresses.
On internationals, the hood shock is a big culprit for the CAC unit going bad.. as the hood weight hangs directly off the top bracket for the CAC, stressing it. -- AND Allowing the hood to bounce open (lazyness, or in a hurry when opening the hood) causes the CAC to get damaged like that. A bad hood shock makes amplifies this problem greatly.
here are some tips for installing CAC/radiator units so that they last a long time...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=7832&pid=68664#pid68664
I think you’re spot on on the hood shock causing the damage.I’m usually very careful with the hood but this recent shock went bad within a few months.Should the hood springs be replaced as well?
Also talked to my brother and he has an aluminum welder and he’s going to weld the old CAC for me.
BTW there was no foam or cushion inside the duracrap box when they shipped it.