Acceleration, or not so much... |
08-11-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #1 | |||
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Acceleration, or not so much... I am having an issue with my 2009 cm871. New to the boards well... I've dumped too much money chasing this issue and need help. So when the truck has been operating for a few hours, it starts to run hot as hell and without the heat on, windows open it's about 100 in here easily. It doesn't say it's performing a Regen but still kicking the fan on and creating a sauna in here! With that is a horrible hesitation / power loss , so bad sometimes I won't get a response till about 3 seconds after smashing on it. Then it will shimmy a bit and then get on its way.... Very slowly! Idles okay, never any codes, but what I have noticed is that it doesn't rev to the normal range, kinda flatlines at about 15-16 hundred. Fuel milage in the dash reflects 6.3 or so, but all I ever haul is cardboard | |||
08-11-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #2 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... Weak injectors or a very bad overhead. That or a plugged up dpf caused by bad regen. It wont tell you that it's doing a regen. Onky way you know ia if you alow down during a regen, the hot exhaust temp light will come on. User's Signature: I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that breaks down enough to know a bit. | |||
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08-11-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #3 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... Do an EGR Tuneup, see the video link above. Do that, and then get rid of the mandate | |||
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08-11-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #4 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... (08-11-2017 )Brock Wrote: Weak injectors or a very bad overhead. That or a plugged up dpf caused by bad regen. I appreciate the input! I have done most everything except look at the fuel system. Up to and including replacing the turbo. These shops are complete turds and I'm done. The egr system does need to be gone through like the videos explain in depth, I do plan to do that and have also replaced ALL of the sensors mentioned and cleaned the tubes where applicable. The overhead is my next task, but I plan to check the injectors by the cutout test and the leak back test if I can get that plate and hose. I guess I was headed the right direction. I'll update! | |||
08-11-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #5 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... (08-11-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: Do an EGR Tuneup, see the video link above. Do that, and then get rid of the mandateMandate is on the list. Just waiting to get her dialed in the right way and then chop chop! It's completing the cycles well as far as I know, do filter was replaced before I got her 1.5 years ago. | |||
08-12-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #6 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... If you trust the guys that replaced the dpf filter. I purchased mine used with a "new" filter. Went 2 weeks and did away with it as it was plugged with ash. Long story short they said they replaced it but I say nay nay. | |||
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08-12-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #7 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... Anyone have the nuts to do the overhead themselves?!? I think I may buy what I need to do it so I can stay on top of it once a year. But first I need to make sure the injectors are all doing what they are supposed to. I just hope I don't go through it all and have some kind of blockage in the fuel system. | |||
08-12-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #8 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... (08-12-2017 )BobLabla Wrote: Anyone have the nuts to do the overhead themselves?!? I think I may buy what I need to do it so I can stay on top of it once a year. But first I need to make sure the injectors are all doing what they are supposed to. I just hope I don't go through it all and have some kind of blockage in the fuel system. I have been trying to find the time to do my overhead in my CM-871 for a few months. Nothing going as planned here, won't go into it. I bought all of the tools needed that Rawze used in the video. A few hundred bucks and looks easy enough, I would not be hesitant. As far as the injector test, do that, but I would first yank those cans as others have said, sounds like that may be your issue. Remove the cans and post pictures. I would not drive the truck until you do this. You will cook your injectors and may just trash your head. I would pull the cans first and inspect, before you do anything else. Do you have the Inline Reader? Look on eBay and get one there if you do not have one. Around $400... | |||
08-12-2017, (Subject: Acceleration, or not so much... ) Post: #9 | |||
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RE: Acceleration, or not so much... (08-12-2017 )BobLabla Wrote: Anyone have the nuts to do the overhead themselves?!? I think I may buy what I need to do it so I can stay on top of it once a year. But first I need to make sure the injectors are all doing what they are supposed to. I just hope I don't go through it all and have some kind of blockage in the fuel system. Running an overhead is not hard to do, it's a great first procedure. If you don't already have a Quickserve.cummins.com account, go create one. Go into the service manual and print the procedure out, and follow it step by step. If you can tackle this, it will help give you the confidence to build your mechanical altitude and soon you'll be doing your own inframe... Tools needed for the overhead once the rocker cover has been removed: 3/4" drive ratchet and a short extension-used to bar the motor over A dial or split beam type torque wrench(small increments, value is 71in/lbs-8Nm) with an 8mm Allen socket-for adjusting injector preload on dual cam engines (570, 870, 871) A torque wrench for the adjuster jam nuts(range of 15-50 ft/lbs)-multiple is nice so you don't have to change settings from injector to valve to jake every cylinder A 6mm Allen wrench-for the valve adjuster A 3mm Allen wrench-for the Jake adjuster A 24mm socket for the injector jam nut A 19mm crows foot-for the valve jam nuts A 13mm crows foot-for the jake rocker A 0.015" feeler-for the intake valve clearance (0.014" is Cummins stated clearance, Mr Hagg has found increased oil flow with 0.015" which is why I recommend this) A 0.027" feeler-for the exhaust valve clearance A 0.276" or 7mm feeler (or stack of feelers equal to)-for the jake rocker clearance *A dial indicator and magnetic adjustable base to measure jake detent to valve pin clearance after adjustment Your first time will take you the best part of the day... Verify all of the above in YOUR specific procedure! I made a mistake when originally posting this and stated 0.024 for the exhaust clearance! Everyone makes mistakes, so always verify with the procedure. The procedure also says 0.14" for the intake, but Mr Hagg has shown Rawze how much better the oil flows by increasing the intake to 0.015", which is why I stated that clearance instead, it's up to you to decide if you chose that or not. *Another trick if you don't have a dial indicator and magnetic base; after the jake rocker is adjusted, rock it back towards the cam, place and hold a 0.030" feeler on top of the exhaust valve where you had the 0.276"/7mm feeler. Now rock the jake rocker into the detent position. Now push the jake rocker down towards the valve, if you still have slight clearance your head is good. If you have none, watch the jake rocker very closely while you slide the 0.030" feeler out flat, if it moves DOWN further into the detent, your clearance is at or beyond critical. This is how I do it when I don't have my dial indicator with me. User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..." | |||
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