OIL/WATER TEMP

[Rawze]

(02-15-2018 )808allstarr Wrote:  79095065/cpl 8519 is original data plate info. Have to chk on new info. Can u tell me based on orignal info what cal# should be for hp if it was tuned to its highest. Cummins said it was turnt up to 550hp. If thats wrong what should it be at?

You should register the engine on quickserv.com so that you can get the info yourself. It is free...



It is supposed to have the program (calibration) AB10338.xx in it according to the data-plate. The #4 and #6 wedge should have been used to time the engine when the cams were installed.

The AB10338 program is 475HP/1650trq. No Smart-torque.

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there are several 550HP programs for the CPL8519 spec engine. HOWEVER!!! -- At 550HP, YOURS IN PARTICULAR is only 100% compatible to THESE 2 factory program(s)...
* AB10517.xx -- 550HP/1650trq
* AB10513.xx -- 550HP/1850trq
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-- ATTENTION!: The engine CPL number is 8519. There are many factory files listed under this CPL but not all of them are 100% compatible with your ser# engine and some of them can potentially cause some serious problems. Many cummins and Dealershit shops only use the CPL number to determine what program can be used AND THIS IS DEAD WRONG! ( reference-link ). Your engine is one good example of this. For example, the program AB10507.xx is listed as a 550HP/1850trq calibration under the same CPL as your engine, and would fool most shops into thinking it will work,,.. BUT IT IS NOT COMPATIBLE AT ALL!. Performing a full 6800+ parameter compare reveals that IT HAS DIFFERENT ENGINE BRAKE LOGIC AND MAP SETTINGS! in the file for a 3-solenoid engine brake setup among other things. It can damage the engine or cause severe problems if used.

-- WHAT PROGRAM is in your engine? - WHO put it there? -- IS IT FACTORY OR HAS SOMEONE EDITED IT (custom tune and/or delete?)?. Something STILL DOES NOT ADD UP! and that is you say you are not getting check engine lights, etc. when it overheats!. This is a BIG RED FLAG! that the programming may be bad...

I will say this one last time...

GET IT FLASHED BACK TO THE AB10338.xx program that is supposed to have in it. A FACTORY ORIGIONAL PROGRAM and not one someone has monkeyed with!. If nothing more than to rule it out. Then you can go about solving your problems from there.

[808allstarr]

First off i really appreciate all of you ppls positive feedback it really helps me to slowly correct the problem with my truck. But im not a troll and i do have ears that work. And negative bullshit is uncalled for u have no idea of my situation. I came to this site for help from ppl i believe are more knowledgeable and experience with the isx. Im just a driver who knows that shi#t aint right with my engine tryin to first off convince my boss and then inform my mechanics and cummins shop. Im the guy in this trk hours a day knowing sumtin is wrong and playin the middle man btwn trk owner and guys tryin to fix it. Its not my trk its jus the one i was assigned to and knows it aint right. But tryin to convince ppl who think they know everything and arent on the road dealing with the problems caused by bad tune or watever it is impossible. But like i said with all your help im able to put logic behind the reasons problems happen when im on the road and slowy get things right. Its jus the way it is where i work. Being jus a driver i can only suggest what i think is the problem and hope that my boss decides to do sumtin about and then communicate that to mechanics. Bottom line im not hear to give anyone a hard time jus like i said to learn frm guys like u and be better driver who knos better. Thanks ppl.

[Chamberpains]

We're not being negative. Your getting the normal amount of ball busting and sideways humor that comes with the trucking industry. Don't take it to hard. Your in good hands. I'm here to learn and help and have a little fun doing it.

Now as far as us not knowing your situation, well your wrong on that. When I said I went back and reread all your posts. That's exactly what I did.
You've already stated that your a company driver that you pull the heaviest loads for the company so your boss turned your truck up, and being in Hawaii there only 1 guy doing tunes back in 4/2016, you drive a 2007 or 2005 (you've asked very similar overheating questions and used both years) Kenworth T800 with a cm870 that was orginally 475hp and is now "turnt up" to 550hp by your mechanic, you drive other trucks but this one is your main truck, your've replaced the coolant level sensor (4/16), you used to run with the EGR unplugged (4/16), the head was replaced on the last long block in the truck, you swapped your ECM 550hp tune with an ECM off a similar truck with 475hp and your coolant levels(I'm assuming coolant temps) and Idle were correct and ran smooth again (hmm I wonder if this can point to having the correct ECM cal on the engine might fix things), The ECM you currently have is not the original 1, When you changed the Thermostats (9/16) you stated you get really high temps from standing in the throttle and they back off when you down shift and back the torque off(pulling a hill really hard will make high temps especially in warm Hawaii), (4/17) you stated the water jacket cracked and you were looking for a long block, (10/17) you asked if a bad tune can cause overheating (looks like you were looking in the same direction then that we are now) (10/17) your '05 is having high oil temps on hard pulls, (11/17) someone gave shitty advise to run without oil thermostat (hopefully you didn't) And that brings us to our current conversation with a new long block and a bunch of new parts.

Now where I might be getting some of this wrong is that you may be talking about different vehicles. But you've been asking in one way or another about high oil and coolant temps on these vehicles for 2 years.

With the above information and knowing someone altered the ECM (whether correct or not, We do not know) all we can do is start with your truck having a good calibration that is supposed to be on it. That way we know that the components of the truck are at least getting told to act properly. After we know that's correct then we can go down the laundry list of causes for High oil/coolant temps on a hard pull.

I had to assume you were trolling in someway because almost every one of your threads you yourself or Rawze or someone else has suggested to have your cal. checked and you never confirmed what it was checked or that it is correct. Just that it was turnt up to 550.

So go get us that current Calibration # in the ECM and the CPL # off the new long block (just incase they switched the CPL on the long block and still used your ECM)

[Hammerhead]

I am officially no longer the research nerd!!!
Woohoo!!!

[808allstarr]

Ab10513.06/8519 thats the current ecm cal and cpl on new block. Hooked up insite jus today and only once a fault for high coolant temp 225. So in the last 3 weeks ive been running new block it only heated up as high as 225 one time. Which is great bcuz according to my gauges it was hitting those temps at least 3 or 4 times a week. Im sure even if it only picked up 225 once anything above 210 is still overheating. I could be wrong there correct me if i am. I heard what u gays said bout putting it back to factory ecm cal but thats not my decision to make. But being its the right cal im hoping that its faulty gauges. I will b running with a computer hooked up in the next day or two to c what that reads compared to my gauges.

[Chamberpains]

Well, My gamble was wrong and hammerhead owes the Bookie that took his bet. Just stay in Canada buddy I dont think those people are willing to go International to collect.....

Any way that is the correct and up to date calibration. So your good to go there. Now what you describe sounds like perfectly normal engine temps when your pulling a hill. The high 225 temp maybe an old code or a spike from multiple reasons. Maybe an air pocket in coolant or maybe you turned the engine off to soon after a hard pull. There a lot of simple reasons for just 1 occurrence. Clear that code out and start monitoring your temps as you drive. 210 is when the fan kicks on and is perfectly normal under a pull. Your not going as fast so your fan kicks on to help pull air across the engine. The harder you stand in it or the slower you go will make it cycle more. Nothing to worry about unless the fan cannot bring the temps down. Also having the bigger HP/torque cal is putting more fuel to the truck. Obviously more fuel burnt equals faster hotter temps.
Being that your ecm was probably not reset with the new long block your data is going to be a mix of the 2 engine blocks history. But I would look under abuse history in Insite and view the actual reported temps of the oil and coolant just to get an idea of how often your truck was ran way hot. Your gauges may have been lying to you for a long time.
Other than that it sounds like your guage are the culprits. Try tapping on the guage if it jumps around then your guage is wore out or faulty. Check the plugs and wiring for bent pins or corrosion and abrasions, if none, Put a good set of gauges in and drive on.
If you have any other questions or notice something strange let us know. We'll probably place bets on those causes too.

[808allstarr]

So i ran trk today with insite and yes my gauges are reading high. There was roughly 30 to 40 degrees difference in oil/water 227/181. Is that norm? I thought they wer suppose to b alot closer together. Also noticed my driving could b a factor in high temps. If i floorboard when pulling a hill and ran rpms over 16 for longer periods of time egts would get up there. 1200/1300. But if i stayed around 1600rpm and less throttle i was able to maintain temps. When standing on throttle on every shift thru the whole climb highest temps was 215 water and 237 oil. Is it bcuz of tune that i cant push trk as hard as i want? Idk dont think if evrything working the ways its supposed to it should b like that correct me if im wrong. Goin back last year i had posted bout fueling actuators and it causing powerloss with old blk but told that it could b over fueling being worn out. Im wondering if those actuators frm old blk could b causing it to dump too much fuel causing excess heat. Idk. But driving with insite was great i was clearly able to know my limits with engine wen and where i was gettin on it to hard. Lettin me kno when to back dwn and more precisely wats goin under my hood then guesstimating with my crap gauges. I felt more in control of my engine. Im planning to change oil/water and adding pyro or egt. Not really sure whether it better to monitor after or b4 the turbo? Lookin at glowshifts maxtow gauges?

[Chamberpains]

Your temps look perfectly normal. Oil is thicker than water it needs to be a bit hotter to flow better.
You can check the actuators by pulling them apart and checking them with a dial indicator. Or if they were as old as mine (1.1 million miles) all i had to do is pull them apart and feel with my finger. They were clearly shot.
https://youtu.be/dzYm8FeqjKc

Also Rawze has posted videos on installing pyro and boost gauges

https://youtu.be/lUeYsQY0ykM

Its good to see a company driver taking a responsible approach to the equipment he uses to make a living. I wish there were more like you.