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Gonefishin900

My isx has liner orings leaking on #2. Motor has 1.3m km on it with what I believe is original crank cam, head, turbo ect. I will be rebuilding myself, hiring the counter bores out.
I did some reading on opinions on aftermarket kits which aren’t a fan favorite on here. The truck will see like 20-30k km a year so I cannot justify the exponentially higher cost of Cummins parts. I’ve used {garbage aftermarket} kits in past builds…. Is there kits that come with everything I need? Quality wise one better than the other?
I want to replace
Head
Liner packs
Bearings
Oil pump
Oil cooler(truck had high oil temps prior) or change the thermostat??
Water pump/thermostat
Turbo…. Is original. I don’t want to spend the 10k on a new one from Cummins. And I see straight vane turbos have poor reviews here. I could care less if I lose some Jake power. Options!?
Vibration damper
Trucks deleted and I’d like to remove the egr cooler and put a bypass pipe in. While it’s apart an before it starts to leak.

Is there anything else I should be changing?
Thanks

hookliftpete

Unfortunately you will not get recommendations here other than Oem parts all the way.

Gonefishin900

(Yesterday )hookliftpete Wrote: Unfortunately you will not get recommendations here other than Oem parts all the way.

Yeah I kinda figured that, I don’t really understand why such the hard stance with oem parts, there’s no arguing the turbo is far superior. But in my opinion aftermarket parts
{rest of post deleted} ... BAD INFORMATION!!!

mikkhh

It is in fact dropped liners, not o rings or head gasket itself.

High oil temps are mostly caused due to the delete done previously and most likely the delete is bad. VGT deletes are not welcome here (since they cost more money due to higher fuel consumption, more wear on brakes and truck due to weak jake brakes, reduced engine life), nobody here is going to aid with molesting engine.

Copy the file from ECM and send it for a review. Bad programming is most likely reason behind high oil temps...

Read more here to get started -
https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...5#pid72945

Genuine parts may cost money, but they will last exponentially longer than aftermarket alternatives. If cheap parts fail you could wipe way the WHOLE engine.

The quality of aftermarket parts in the last couple of years is absolutely disastrous. Also there are lots of counterfeit "genuine" parts out there, so I would advise to stay away from fleabay deals.

Nostalgic

Everyone preaches OE only here for a reason - and it's NOT because we're Cummins fanboys. When you buy OE, they have traceability, consistency, and standards, etc. With aftermarket, you get ... claims. Claims that this is better, or that is improved, or that it's "the same place that makes factory parts", but there's no validation or proof, ever. You, the end user, have absolutely no way to tell if what heat or material makeup your casting came from. A shop may swear by an aftermarket head that "they've sold hundreds of with no problems", and (doubtfully) that MAY BE, but you also have NO idea if the boxed head you actually get is from the same factory as the others, because there is zero traceability.

I get it, farm truck, limited use, limited funds. But do you really want to risk it swallowing a valve or windowing your block during harvest? Cummins' inframe kits are actually pretty good deals these days, if you have a dealer that will give you fair pricing.

walterk

Imagine all this work just to put the aftermarket parts in. What a waste! There is a lot of info on this forum on why not to do it. But, it is your truck.

tree98

Rebuild info

https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?...&pid=70606

And by the way, the difference between aftermarket parts and OEM isn't deciding between 500k or 1 million miles. Aftermarket parts can be risky and cause problems that you just chase your tail on and can never figure out. You save a couple bucks and in return you'll be on here asking why your oil pressure is so low no matter what you do, or you can't make over 20 psi of boost, or why can't i get the overhead set properly, or something sounds funny, what could it be?? Its just endless.

I suspect 80% or more of the guys that show up here with these weird issues nobody can fix are likely fighting garbage parts and don't even realize it. I understand your point about not needing the truck enough to justify a high dollar rebuild. Maybe you should look into something from 30 years ago that would be a lot more forgiving with aftermarket parts in it because an emmission's era Cummins just ain't it!!!

mikkhh

Well the average N14 is too clapped out to be even remotely reliable nowadays. Price wise most likely 5-10 year old truck competes with N14 equipped scrap metal. Cylinder heads etc are reman and reman over couple of times. Injectors are re re re re re man couple of times already. New original parts are not being made most likely for those. Finding good injectors is really hard for N14 nowadays. Truck itself is rusty, lots of wiring issues. Faults are plentyful and hard to track down time wise.

Aftermarket engine parts do last better on old stuff, because there was no precise computerized combustion control so the mechanical side had to be made with safety margins strength wise to accomodate the vague combustion process.

Precise injections and also reduced rotating mass combined with shorter connecting rods helped to achieve way better fuel consumption. Maybe somebody who has got experience between N14 and ISX can tell the real world numbers.

tree98

Who said N14?.... buy an old yellow boat anchor with 10:1 compression that you can do whatever you want to. Yea your only gonna get 3 mpg but who cares if your only using it 10k miles a year.