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mikkhh

I do not know a single 2000 + european diesel car engine that does NOT have pressurized crank case breather and that does NOT route oil fumes to turbo inlet.

They all have, but positive pressure in crank case is no good, it will cause top end oil starvation, issues with turbo oil draining and so on.

If you just route pcv to atmosphere it may not cure oil consumption issues, since there is a valve that opens when there is too big crank case pressure.

BUT the PCV IS LOCATED UNDER THE EGR COOLER, takes couple of hours to get to it. Or you can just drill hole into oil cap and route away that way and blank the line going to intake. I assume you want to keep this car for a couple of years, in that case replace oil cooler seals and also seals between oil cooler and engine block. Also remove egr cooler and clean it. Also remove intakes and clean them. I clean intake manifolds and egr coolers in 30l cheap ultrasonic cleaner (with engine degreaser or oven cleaner), to make process faster first clean is done using high temperature pressure washer, that gets most gunk cleaned up. You may need new swirl flap linkages, since they get worn and fall off. You should remove injectors and replace injector copper seals + O rings, since those injectors are located in oil basically, if copper seal goes out (and you do not notice by sound) you will start leaking soot/carbon into engine oil, that can wipe out the engine. It is way easier to swap injector copper washers if injectors are not sooted stuck and there is no huge mess to clean up. Injectors wise it is very important that you do not use those injector seat cutters, there is ABSOLUTELY no need to cut them if there is no visible grooves worn in from leaking injectors, but that is like very very rare and takes lots of neglect for it to get that bad. If you absolutely have to cut injector seats you MUST compensate with thicker injector washer so the injector tip stays same height regards to cylinder head surface as it was before.

What software version is on ecu? If they have later dieselgate software fixes those things run absolutely crap and gearbox also goes jerky. It is absolutely reccomended to reflash both gearbox and ecu back to the software it was running 10 years ago.

What about injectors? On those engines most common issue with injectors is that nozzles start to drip. If electrical part (piezo) is failed then the engine would cut out randomly or will not start at all since those injectors are high voltage. If you have excessive injector leak to return line then the engine will have issues starting and long cranking, if you get engine started then it is going to run fine and you can not tell that something is off. If injectors are faulty then do not have them refurbed (even by b0sch) or buy cheap knock off's, neither one is going to last properly. I would buy either brand new ones or good used ones from a junk yard for 1/6th the price of a new one. I do not take them to bench testing, I just install then in the air with only high pressure line connected on car keeping old injector clamped down and return line connected (since there is 5bar fuel coming to return line) and just crank engine for like 10 seconds or more to see if nozzle goes wet or there is any big visible dripping at return line, if not then 99% times the injector is fine and will work. Why I do not take them to have them bench tested? First of all most bench testers do not check injector regarding to specs on injector specific IMA code and bench testing is done at only like room temperature compared the temperature the engine is facing and most do not give new IMA codes AND bench testing costs like half the price of used injector, sometimes even more. I get along with local yunk yard guy and if the injectors he sold me is faulty right away he will give me another one and he allows me to test injectors at his place and if he has a new car for dismantling I can just hook up scan tool and check those injector correction times, if they are ok and there is no excessive injector return happening then I can use those injectors just fine.

IF intake manifold is cleaned properly, swirl flap linkages have not fallen off and engine is healthy then looking at injector correction time uS values (they start from like measuring block 70), they should not have - signs in front of them and if they have like -10 -20 then there is something wrong with the injector.

Your engine is hardware wise same design as the first 2004-5 3.0tdi, except you have the newer high fuel pressure pump that sometimes likes to create metal shavings, since there are only two pump heads instead of three like the first ones that were absolutely bulletproof. I have seen old ones leak (usually it is not seals, the covers are just warped), but never wreak havoc like newer styles.

Oil wise I see no reason to use that expensive 10w60 "racing" oil in my cars. Good old truck 15w40 mineral or 10w40 semi synthetic / mineral + gear oil will work just fine. I buy truck oil by drum so it is cheaper to 5l or 20l jugs of 10w60. When I was younger I ran that 15w40/10w40 truck oil in wet clutched 140cc/160cc pit bikes (never had any oil related issues there or wet clutch, those oldschool 70s design air cooler vertical engines took abuse well and also forgave almost everything repair wise, chinese cheap engine parts worked just fine there), to this day I still run atf in my 250 2 stroke mx bikes transmissions and use chainsaw premix oil. I am not racing those 20-30 year old bikes so I an not worried. I have not ridden those bikes for more than two years. Project 97 yz250 is in pieces waiting for an overhaul - new used forks and shocks (since old ones have damaged chrome shafts) and engine is in pieces also, looking up bearings for cheap. Bought it just to give it a second chance, but parts cost is astronomical (and there are no new parts available for everything) and the amount of work required also, looking for a newer grenaded engine 4stroke mx bike to get the front fork and rear shock for cheap. Second 250cc 2stroke bike is just fill up gas and run it.

Those first generation 3.0tdi had way less issues than newer ones - there is usually no leaks between top oil pan and engine block, newer ones are notorious for that and bolts between engine block and top oil pan are ALUMINIUM, the fix was to reseal with RTV like factory and at least replace longer bolts with stainless bolts.

In europe there are quite a few early 3.0tdi that have driven 500 000 km with original timing chains without the need to replace them...

Take a look at harmonic balancer, they have issues and get worn with age and start creating more vibrations and also they are going to play a role in timing chain life expectancy.

I believe that the reason why those chain issues were so big was because injectors were dripping and that caused way low crank angles and those 3.0tdi engines that have spun bearings have had all either leaky injector(s) or really bad programming. Also when engine is in dpf or scr warmup mode timing gets advanced and that is going to also cause increased strain on timing chains.

My daily driver om642 engine car has 500 000km on it, still original chains, it has still got dpf and other stuff...
I know two (one with dpf and other without dpf but has had stupid power box on it whole it's life) Jeep OM642 grand cherokees that have 500 000km and still original chain, yes the tensioner has moved compared to new chain, there is no cold start rattle or anything, but chain on the stock car has still got plenty of life left and it does not make sense now to swap it on a 20 year old car with some aftermarket part that may last lest than the one that is on it now and the new original costs 500, suppousedly iwis (the manufacturer who makes chains) 100, car itself costed 2500 two years ago, other one was 2000. It was around 100 in gaskets to fix the oil cooler leaks and clean intake manifolds. I will pull the intakes on dpf equipped jeep to clean them, there is no oil cooler leaks visible so they have been cleaned some time in the past, but car is low on power compared to another jeep (that had tuning on it and jumped timing chain) that is stock programming now and chain has been swapped and intake has been cleaned.

Powerbox tuning Jeep engine I will pull apart completely to see how pistons look, how the bearings look. No idea when acutally, but when I do will post pictures here. Most likely will pull apart other engines I have since I want to use those engines on newer cars that have way way worse engines (plastic intakes, rocker covers and so on) and really bad parts availability.

Some of those 3.0tdi will get stuck at high idle after deman and that will happen even like year later. And the guys doing d3letes on them are absolutely clueless why, they have no idea about those warmup modes and that is the actual reason why engine ends up at high idle (to warm up now missing cans). NOBOBY who does "deman" them knows how to edit timings to compensate for missing exhaust gas, they just crudely tell e g r valve to not open anymore and delete all fault codes.

What is even worse, guys who tune them raise rail pressures to OBLIVION, advance timings even more (although there is no egr gas anymore so the final crank angle is already lower) and soon after engine will have rattling timing chains or in the case of newer generations of 3.0tdi the bearings get spun first. They start telling stories how bad those 3.0tdi engines ( and every other newer engine that they touched) are and so on. They have zero clue what deSox and deNox functions to on cars and why actually there are O2 sensors on diesel cars. I did not read all that audi page now but, D4204T5 engine page 38 explains the concepts well enough. That is also the reason why engines start smelling bad after butchering the cans - maybe engine is trying to carry out deNox by injecting now unneccesary fuel to exhaust...

What happened with dieselgate was that manufacturers used Auxiliary Emissions System clauses to avoid using e gr so there will be less soot and dpf filters will last longer and have less frequent regens. I had 2.0tdi commonrail passat with 800 000 km years ago that had dieselgate sw still on it and it had NEVER been to dealer. The intake manifold looked quite fine after all those km and there was no massive carbon like on newer cars that have like only 100 000km on them. I will do intake clean maybe this weekend on 2.0tdi that has same kind of engine but has had dieselgate software update done it at like 20 000km, and has driven 100 000km after that. Well the dpf failed shortly after (sooty tailpipes) and dealership told while car was still under warranty that it is normal. The cars that have not had software fix still have healthy dpf s even after lots of kilometers.