Valve train noise

[Ragindirt]

CM 871,
718k
Still calcomy drivable.

How much valve train noise do you guys have, sounds like it is coming from cam gears. Cannot hardly hear yourself think running 45 mph at 1350 rpm. Air compressor less then a year and was timed.

Also oil pressure at a 715 rpm is 20 psi, any thoughts (time for dines). Good pressure at about 1000 rpm, 38 to 40 psi.

[dhirocz]

I put 6 dimes in mine at 685k. Did a bearing roll as well as new cams and bearings and whatnot to hold me over for the time being. Oil pressure came up about 6 psi across the board with rotella and gear oil.

Set my overhead +.001" on the clearances, helped out alot.

After doing that it quieted down alot. I had a flat cam...if you're valvetrain is noisy, you need to check your cams and overhead pronto! Noisy valvetrain could also be lack of oil up top, as well as a number of things. Sometimes exhaust leaks can also make similar noise as well.

Mine just got a new compressor. Started out making noise that sounded like that as well. I squirted a couple Spritz of WD-40 into the air compressor intake and it quieted it down for a day or so until I could get home.

[Ragindirt]

(01-10-2018 )dhirocz Wrote:  I put 6 dimes in mine at 685k. Did a bearing roll as well as new cams and bearings and whatnot to hold me over for the time being. Oil pressure came up about 6 psi across the board with rotella and gear oil.

Set my overhead +.001" on the clearances, helped out alot.

After doing that it quieted down alot. I had a flat cam...if you're valvetrain is noisy, you need to check your cams and overhead pronto! Noisy valvetrain could also be lack of oil up top, as well as a number of things. Sometimes exhaust leaks can also make similar noise as well.

Mine just got a new compressor. Started out making noise that sounded like that as well. I squirted a couple Spritz of WD-40 into the air compressor intake and it quieted it down for a day or so until I could get home.

Going to read up about the dimes today and may actually go this route. Just did and overhead and three new injectors a week ago, everything looked good inside head.

Might actually be time to head over to Atlanta with 718K and 26k hours on her. Tranny more then likely will need replacing too. Shock loaded clutch brake Tuesday. Replaced old one with a two piece to get me back home ( why the shop but a two piece on when they installed new clutch last January is crazy), but it was my fault for shock loading it.
Pulling hills in a turn high to low range got hung up and probably pressed clutch down to far in an attempt to recover gear selection.
Would say 70% time now I have to come to a complete stop just to get high side to fall into low, and cycle clutch the entire stroke. Also have a serious vibration in stick plus 4&5 getting harder to use.

[Hammerhead]

(01-11-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote:  Going to read up about the dimes today and may actually go this route. Just did and overhead and three new injectors a week ago, everything looked good inside head.

Might actually be time to head over to Atlanta with 718K and 26k hours on her. Tranny more then likely will need replacing too. Shock loaded clutch brake Tuesday. Replaced old one with a two piece to get me back home ( why the shop but a two piece on when they installed new clutch last January is crazy), but it was my fault for shock loading it.
Pulling hills in a turn high to low range got hung up and probably pressed clutch down to far in an attempt to recover gear selection.
Would say 70% time now I have to come to a complete stop just to get high side to fall into low, and cycle clutch the entire stroke. Also have a serious vibration in stick plus 4&5 getting harder to use.

Ok, so you've replaced the clutch brake and you're still having the problem you're describing here?
The only time a clutch brake does anything is when you're stopped, and the truck is running in neutral and you're about to start moving. You press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get the shafts inside the tranny to stop spinning so you can select a gear. A c/brake has NOTHING to do with transmission operation.

With what you're describing above here I think you're barking up the wrong tree.
If the transmission is having issues going from hi to lo range, you have an entirely different problem all together.
Does your transmission "grind" the gears when going from low range to hi? And vice versa but slams into low hard?
If the answer to this question is yes, then your problem lies inside the tranny, your synchro is done. As long as none of the main gears have been damaged, then this can be repaired without having removing the tranny, the bolts that hold the back portion of the tranny can be removed and the syncro is in this back portion. Based on what I'm guessing you're describing here and when/where/how it happened, I suspect this is your problem. If this is what is wrong, continuing to operate the truck in this condition is risking your whole tranny. If a broken piece somehow gets into a set of engaged gears, BOOM, do not pass Go, Go directly to tow truck and have him take you to tranny shop...and possibly no core...
If the answer is no, then check this.
Step 1, verify the governor on the back of the transmission is supplying air pressure in the correct range. (Iirc 55-59psi)
Step 2, verify that the are no air leaks in the transmission lines, from the governor to the range selector, from the range selector to the valve on the shift lever, etc. Air pressure is governed lower for tranny function, so small leaks have a larger impact than you may think.

[Ragindirt]

Yep know how brake functions, and yes I probably caused it to fail by applying full pedal trying to get truck back in range selected. I have a manual 10 version of KW auto, so range module is the L shaped block, no leaks. Will check pressure though. yep she sounds little bit louder now days them in the past, little rough getting into 4 and 5. She is in driveway now, dropped two loads and came home for this reason; plus I have a hell of a vibration coming through stick. Waiting on snow to pass so I can look over.

Also was wondering in another trend what would be a better option, 13 or 15; drove both in the past; spare truck I use from outfit I run under has a C15 connected to a 15, pulls my loads well enough, but I find that even in hilly terrain I can miss a few of the upper low split gears.

Got off track here was originally asking how much gear/valve train noise is typical on and 871. Seems as of late it is getting louder.
Be more than happy for someone on here with more experience to call and I'll let them listen if willing.

[Hammerhead]

(01-11-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote:  Yep know how brake functions, and yes I probably caused it to fail by applying full pedal trying to get truck back in range selected. I have a manual 10 version of KW auto, so range module is the L shaped block, no leaks. Will check pressure though. yep she sounds little bit louder now days them in the past, little rough getting into 4 and 5. She is in driveway now, dropped two loads and came home for this reason; plus I have a hell of a vibration coming through stick. Waiting on snow to pass so I can look over.

Also was wondering in another trend what would be a better option, 13 or 15; drove both in the past; spare truck I use from outfit I run under has a C15 connected to a 15, pulls my loads well enough, but I find that even in hilly terrain I can miss a few of the upper low split gears.

Got off track here was originally asking how much gear/valve train noise is typical on and 871. Seems as of late it is getting louder.
Be more than happy for someone on here with more experience to call and I'll let them listen if willing.

Engine;
If you think your top end is getting louder, I'd pop the rocker cover and make a close inspection of all components in there ASAP. This is the known weakness of these engines.

Transmission;
I'd be inclined to suggest a 13/18 speed over a 15. If you don't do a lot of soft ground or really heavy (>100k) where you need to be able to split the bottom end, then 13. The selectability of usable gears at rolling speeds is just the only way to go.
A 15 speed is just a 10 speed with deep reduction for slow moving, soft ground, site work, etc. They have their place, and IMHO, the highway is not it.
IMHO 9&10 speeds trannys are one of the greatest contributing factors to piss poor driving habits, as the rpm range between gears is large enough that becoming complacent about lugging an engine becomes so routine you don't notice you're doing it.
Having and using selectability in gear choice promotes situational awareness, and allows you to operate the engine in the optimal rpm range for either torque load or fuel efficiency for the conditions you are in at that time.

[Ragindirt]

(01-11-2018 )Hammerhead Wrote:  

(01-11-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote:  Yep know how brake functions, and yes I probably caused it to fail by applying full pedal trying to get truck back in range selected. I have a manual 10 version of KW auto, so range module is the L shaped block, no leaks. Will check pressure though. yep she sounds little bit louder now days them in the past, little rough getting into 4 and 5. She is in driveway now, dropped two loads and came home for this reason; plus I have a hell of a vibration coming through stick. Waiting on snow to pass so I can look over.

Also was wondering in another trend what would be a better option, 13 or 15; drove both in the past; spare truck I use from outfit I run under has a C15 connected to a 15, pulls my loads well enough, but I find that even in hilly terrain I can miss a few of the upper low split gears.

Got off track here was originally asking how much gear/valve train noise is typical on and 871. Seems as of late it is getting louder.
Be more than happy for someone on here with more experience to call and I'll let them listen if willing.

Engine;
If you think your top end is getting louder, I'd pop the rocker cover and make a close inspection of all components in there ASAP. This is the known weakness of these engines.

Transmission;
I'd be inclined to suggest a 13/18 speed over a 15. If you don't do a lot of soft ground or really heavy (>100k) where you need to be able to split the bottom end, then 13. The selectability of usable gears at rolling speeds is just the only way to go.
A 15 speed is just a 10 speed with deep reduction for slow moving, soft ground, site work, etc. They have their place, and IMHO, the highway is not it.
IMHO 9&10 speeds trannys are one of the greatest contributing factors to piss poor driving habits, as the rpm range between gears is large enough that becoming complacent about lugging an engine becomes so routine you don't notice you're doing it.
Having and using selectability in gear choice promotes situational awareness, and allows you to operate the engine in the optimal rpm range for either torque load or fuel efficiency for the conditions you are in at that time.

Just changed three injectors, besides a little darkest from egr shi#t, looks pretty sweet for 718k, 25k plus hours. Noise up front more in gear cover.

Inclined for a 13 myself, what I priced last January, but could not see the payout on saving at the time. Now with the spread and averaging 84K, and possible tranny job it is time.
And you are so correct about the 10 and lugging.

[Magard]

Chipped grears in front cover? I hope not. I’ve read and seen pictures of a gear coming apart and sending debris through gear train. Probably sounds really whiny and ringy. Just a guess.

[Ragindirt]

Warming her up now, 15 out. Once she is up to temp may see if I can get a short video, then post it.