rebuild vs swap decisions |
08-18-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #10 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions (08-15-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: I will second what Rawze said, Mr Hagg has rebuilding an ISX down to a science. The truck is brought in the shop, hood removed, then front structure removed. Then the tear down starts, it is really something to watch. Every component's nuts and bolts are put in individual zip loc bags, labeled and placed on a very tall bakers shelf. That is your motor, no intermingling of parts. And yes, all parts are cleaned. I appericate you taking the time to give me more confidences in the decision I have made. now is time to get all my ducks in a row to insure the I have it all worked out on my end . piss poor preparation=piss poor performance .Thanks bud | |||
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08-18-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #11 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions I have a couple thoughts that i have looked into a little bit but lets have some opinions about the following my fan clutch is out from what i asume using it all the time to get back home recently and being everything will be tore down it would be ovb the time to replace it but i have been wondering with all the new engergy saving types of parts coming up anybody have any thoughts pros & cons on electric engine fan ?? fuel savings from it? ovb dual would be safer to insure if one fails for what ever reason theres still one working . any good quality kits on the market any one has seen or have experience with? I also have steer air ride and the constant change in leveling I know screws with some things and have talked with a few others about how my drive line angles are changed and you can feel the differance in the drive ablity in the truck when it gets out of wack but i also wonder if it is a common issue with the FLEX AIR SUSPENSION on Peterbilts so is there any experience comments to the benefit over strait leaf spring type .its almost a hassle and they are expensive set up to have done and being I already have it i think i would replace the leafs to bring the quality of the ride and tire where back up cause I am having issues with steer wear CUPPING alot I know bearings have a roll in that and shocks and that is a for sure replacement parts Im going to be changing I have some pics i will include but I think im going to start a thread in the in the daily blog going forward with progresses and all . | |||
08-18-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #12 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions Just as a little light at into your tunnel IronSled.... a properly tuned, maintained, and operated 2350 will be a good money maker. Mine with 3.55s in the rear has ranged from 8.989 - 9.289 mpg since the beginning of this IFTA quarter. I run a 60 loaded and 40 empty, but when loaded I am 90% above 77k. Not sure the terrain or load you encounter, but a proper cm2350 equation (yourself included) will net you good mpg earnings which will transfer to money in the bank. I’m constantly under the hood doing random checks and maintenance, but so far it has been a very profitable engine with the help and Insite of Rawze and the members of this forum. | |||
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08-18-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #13 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions (08-18-2019 )SquareOne Wrote: Just as a little light at into your tunnel IronSled.... a properly tuned, maintained, and operated 2350 will be a good money maker. good data thanks for the info ! | |||
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09-09-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #14 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions Ironsled is over at Mr. hags. I got a chance to go over there and lend a hand in evaluation of his engine. When he arrived, it ran, but sounded like it was missing badly on one cylinder, similar to dropped valve sound. After a bit though, it started sounding like it was running on only couple 3 cylinders and skipping badly. -- no smoke. -- Could also tell turbo was ramped way up. Turbo arm was definatetly stuck in a high position. Failed all tests with my turbo test box and indicated it was locked up, would not move properly. We relieved pressure from the exhaust behind egr cooler and between turbo / manifold. Also opened up the intake manifold so engine could breathe to see if it would run normally. (cover off, while running) Valves looked all like they were operating correctly, no engine brake solenoids were sticky,.. everything looked normal when idling on top end... yet it was still laboring heavily on only a couple cylinders and would hardly run at all. -- Next day: I used his laptop to look at codes,.. engine was failing injector 1,3, and 5. It had shut them off. That explains the laboring and poor run condition. Was just looking at top of valves and wiggled the wiring harness, seemed odd that it was 1,3,5 and not some other combination... went to unlock the twist-lock on the injector harness where it goes into the head to inspect the pins and the whole plug just fell into my hand. -- It obviously was not plugged in properly, and obviously was not locked in place. Looks like it has been this way for a while too when looking at the dirt and dust on it. Plugged it in and the engine sounded really good, but still had that puff puff on one cylinder sound. it also fails a rail leak test badly. took off the manifold completely to see what cylinder(s) were acting up, possibly not firing, or valve issues, and cranked it up. <- engine ran really well actually. No more popping sound, no more puff puff, ran very well considering all other things. no smoking, no smoke, etc. -- Some investigation reveals that he had a block plate installed, and it had broken and gotten sucked into the exhaust manifold between cylinder 1 and 2. Cylinder 1 could not breathe properly with the manifold in place. Some exhaust was getting past it but not much. - So far, the turbo needs to be re-built. - It is at YTS for that, and I think Hag is going to run the overhead valve adjustments and test the engine for why the rail will not hold pressure. After a new turbo, some proper fixes for his manifold, and re-flashing his ecm with a good program (engine has a bad de-mandate program in it)... i think it will be fine. No signs that it needs an inframe at all so far if you ask me... but it will be checked thoroughly just in case. I can say this.. This guy is a hard worker, and is gung-ho towards doing his own work. sometimes I think it gets him in a bit of trouble though, some things (like rebuilding the guts of a VGT turbo) should be left to someone who can do a proper job who has proper equipment. - I think he is realizing this now, and that is great. Have enjoyed hanging out with this guy, The beer is flowing...LOL User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!. | |||
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09-09-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #15 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions WOW! That is fantastic, hopefully an easy fix compared to an entire in frame. How many shops would have went the extra mile to investigate and figure out the programming, find the broken plate, repaired the turbo, etc.? I can think of only one other, and those two guys are in Canada. I think I can safely say this was worth the trip for Ironsled. | |||
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09-09-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #16 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions Another great story, feeling really good for this man User's Signature: It's hard to win an argument with a smart person, but it's damn near impossible to win an argument with a stupid person | |||
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09-10-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #17 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions THANKS GUYS It has been a great experince being here and getting the chance to take all of it in . I have enjoyed every conversation I have had while being here and learning all I can . Recap for today leak down test on the fuel rail and injectors and found that injector #1 was leaking down bad. so thats the first on the list to change , along with a few other things that I would like to get done here and well since im here why not . Injector #1------Replace idler pully -------Replace Belt tensioner--Replace X2 both belts-------Replace rods and mains-Replace oil pump--------Replace Tie rod ends----Replace ( broiught them with me ) Front motor mounts--Replaved (brought) egr Cooler (due to leak) coolant hoses---x2 and when all that has been done and a and we got a good program back in it we will be ready to take that first ride to clear water MN to get that new trailer and let me tell ya after all the time down I am ready to roll like never before BTW rawze's cooking and hospitalitghy is top Notch. | |||
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09-10-2019, (Subject: rebuild vs swap decisions ) Post: #18 | |||
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RE: rebuild vs swap decisions Congrats man! Hopefully it all works well. Sounds like you're on the right path. Definitely in the right hands! Although they may not have the lifespan as many of the other "Red" engine designs, that 2350 should net you some decent gains once all the ghosts have been exorcised! Keep us posted... | |||
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