Just a few quick questions...

[JMBT]

hey guys, any help here will be appreciated whether answers or links to answers, as I am sure some if not all of these are covered somewhere on the forum, I just haven't been able to find them.

1. If demandated and recalibrated from a reputible party, (I am thinking the fellow in GA), is the calibration 'set it and forget it' or does it required frequent tweaking to operate correctly? (also not looking to bump HP at all)

2. My factory pyro reads from the DPF inlet temp sensor, the temp it shows is always exactly the same as the DPF inlet, during forced regen, or driving hooked to insite, will this be sufficient to drive by after demandate/recal. or will I still require an add on?

3. what info would I need to post to find out if my current cal is compatible with my engine? Current cal number and ?

Oh yes, 2011 CM2250 500HP factory setting, in a Volvo

Thanks

[marek4792]

1. It depends on many things, sometimes after tuning you may make too much or little boost and or the fuel injection timing and flow may have to be adjusted most importantly do the egr tuneup beforehand!
2. The factory egt sensor maybe fine but you can also mount a pyrometer onto the exhaust manifold to measure heatsink which Rawze has a video on his page
3. Engine serial, CPL, cam timing

[Hammerhead]

1) If it's done properly, and being done by someone knowledgeable in GA would be considered done properly, you should have very little requirement for fiddling.
2)The factory EGT "sensor" is pointless. Install a proper pyro, either by the clamping method or drill & tapped into the post turbo exhaust path. Your choice of tuner will recommend the clamping method. While you're at it, if your boost gauge is also factory and relies on data from the IMAP sensor, install a mechanical one of those as well. You are looking for feedback to drive properly efficiency wise, so the better the information naturally, the better the results.
3) Connect Inline/Insite to your truck. Connect to ECM-->Features & Parameters-->System ID & Dataplate-->Calibration Information-->ECM Code (this is the currently installed Cal file), write it down. Go onto your quickserve account and look up the Dataplate for that ESN, and confirm what is the correct ECM Code for your engine (Cal file). If it matches, good. If not, write it down as well and contact someone knowledgeable and find out if the Cal files are actually compatible or not.

[JMBT]

Thank you both for the quick and thorough feedback! Much appreciated!

[Rawze]

This is what I have seen from others doing things like that in other countries ...

#2. - Your pretend 'Factory Pyro' does NOT USE AN ACTUAL SENSOR!. It may seem that it matches your DPF inlet temp sensor but it is simply coincidence. Your engine does not use an actual sensor for EGT. It is calculated by the computer and is estimated only. If fact, the factory EGT that is calculated will spike to 1300 - 1400 degrees on occasion for brief moments when shifting gears because the computer gets confused. I have observed many of them do this and when you compare it to a real gauge, you can see that it simply is not happening.

Factory Boost DOES USE the IMAP sensor but there is a 3-4 second delay in response compared to an actual gauge. My recommendation -- Have an actual pyro and boost gauge installed with actual sensors. If your going to Mr. Hag, they include BOTH boost AND pyro gauges with the other work they do as part of the job. - Have them put into the dash. Nothing beats having actual mechanical gauges.


#1. - 'Set it and forget it' - 95% of cases by the time you leave are just this because they are set correctly, test driven, fine tuned if needed, etc. checked and verified.

The other 5% are almost always trucks that have big square noses, higher HP ratings, big air-flow, big CAC and exhaust systems that will sometimes require some fine tuning of the turbocharger a week or 2 later after putting it through various driving conditions. Trucks with high-flow systems have a lot more overall lag in the system and are much more sensitive because of it. Even the smallest of turbocharger, intake, or exhaust piping or flow changes effect them greatly. After test driving, fine tuning, etc. it will be close but driving it for a week or so may reveal that it needs a bit more air on the low end to reduce lag, or sometimes it needs to be reduced a bit under max loads to keep it inside recommended specs.

Aside form this, ANYONE who has any kind of custom tuning done should check about every 6 months or so with whoever did the work to see if there are any updates available to the programming. Sometimes those updates could be something important. This is especially the case with newer model engines like 2250/2350 that are sensitive to things like liner and other issues even from the factory, regardless of any custom tuning.

This is all assuming for a moment that you live in a country that allows mods like that of course.

[JMBT]

Rawze: Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!