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Waterloo · 03-19-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-19-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote: I haven't kept strict track of how much I'm losing. Probably about a gallon a month, but I also probably do many fewer miles than most here. I will be checking the bunk heater first, then tightening the hoses second. I think it could be the bunk heater though, because I remember that I smelled the coolant when I used it this winter.

Besides that, I'm guessing it's time to do the tune up?

I'm also due for doing all the boxes. I was thinking 350K, but I've been noticing that the shifting doesn't go as smoothly as it used to.

Tighten the hose clamps, it will take you longer to find the 5/16 and 7/16 socket/ratchet than it will to tighten them all... Which is probably your issue at 1 gallon a month... That I would not worry about...

Yes, do the tune up, it is a yearly thing, not a mileage thing. I drive roughly 80,000 miles a year... A month after doing the tune up, I did the @m*m^2, and I used another half a case of carb cleaner to clean up what had just been done... These motors are soot monsters!

The boxes, drop the fluid every 200,000 miles, use the OEM recommended gear lube, you aren't driving a race car. You need the additive package, not the sales pitch. JUST SAYING... LOL! Because I used to buy all the hype, this lube, that lube, a gauge on the dash will make you go faster! LOL! Been there, done that, this is my livelihood, I'm not out here to impress anyone.

yamajason · 03-19-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-19-2016 )Waterloo Wrote: ... Walk around your truck and tighten all of your hose clamps. All of them, and replace any worn clamps with new ones, not the worm gear type, use the T type, with the T bolt and the nut.

The T-Bolt Hose Clamps are built for durability, and with enough torque you should not have any leaks...
However, on plastic Radiator Surge Tanks(aka Overflow tanks) I would use a Constant Torque Hose Clamp because it's clamping force changes with the temperature and eliminates “cold flow” leaks. Less torque required for leak proof=longer life of plastic tank before it cracks the plastic. Both clamp types can be bought on Amazon.
http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

I have had the best results by placing the hose clamp about 1/4" from the hose barb.

Waterloo · 03-19-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-19-2016 )yamajason Wrote:
(03-19-2016 )Waterloo Wrote: ... Walk around your truck and tighten all of your hose clamps. All of them, and replace any worn clamps with new ones, not the worm gear type, use the T type, with the T bolt and the nut.

The T-Bolt Hose Clamps are built for durability, and with enough torque you should not have any leaks...
However, on plastic Radiator Surge Tanks(aka Overflow tanks) I would use a Constant Torque Hose Clamp because it's clamping force changes with the temperature and eliminates “cold flow” leaks. Less torque required for leak proof=longer life of plastic tank before it cracks the plastic. Both clamp types can be bought on Amazon.
http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

Yep, I forgot about the plastic radiator I had to just replace.. Good advice.

DrivingZiggy · 03-21-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

Well, I was under the truck today. So I looked for a leak at the bunk. Nope. So I went inside and looked under the bunk. Couldn't see anything, but I sure could smell it.

And I can't even find a radiator cap! Would I be pressurizing through the reservoir??? That doesn't seem right.

But the truck has started throwing codes. Volvo couldn't tell me exactly what it was, but were able to narrow it down to the EGR. So I guess I'll be giving the truck the RAWZE treatment when I get back from Arkansas. Is there a thread with the step-by-step or do I just have to watch the videos over and over until I get it?

snailexpress · 03-21-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-21-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote: Well, I was under the truck today. So I looked for a leak at the bunk. Nope. So I went inside and looked under the bunk. Couldn't see anything, but I sure could smell it.

And I can't even find a radiator cap! Would I be pressurizing through the reservoir??? That doesn't seem right.

But the truck has started throwing codes. Volvo couldn't tell me exactly what it was, but were able to narrow it down to the EGR. So I guess I'll be giving the truck the RAWZE treatment when I get back from Arkansas. Is there a thread with the step-by-step or do I just have to watch the videos over and over until I get it?

To check bunk heater core leaks you have to unscrew trim plank between cab mat and sleeper carpet. Roll mat and carpet little bit up so you can check area around passenger seat and passenger side sleeper. It is where coolant was in my truck.

DrivingZiggy · 03-21-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

Okay, so I just finished watching Rawze's series on removing everything to clean the soot out. But I didn't hear any mention of what to use besides carb and choke cleaner. Is that all you use? Seems like I will be using a LOT of it.

Mrkentee · 03-21-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-21-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote: Okay, so I just finished watching Rawze's series on removing everything to clean the soot out. But I didn't hear any mention of what to use besides carb and choke cleaner. Is that all you use? Seems like I will be using a LOT of it.

I have used Simple Green in a bucket with a scrub brush if you have the part out. Cleans easily and rinses right off. Then you just dry it with a towel. So much easier than using all that chemical that dries up so fast. My .02

Waterloo · 03-22-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-21-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote: Okay, so I just finished watching Rawze's series on removing everything to clean the soot out. But I didn't hear any mention of what to use besides carb and choke cleaner. Is that all you use? Seems like I will be using a LOT of it.

I picked up a long handled round brush at the local Farm and Home store in the cleaning section, where you find the brooms and mops, looked like a baby bottle brush, and used a case and a half of Carb Cleaner, allot of rags and some pipe cleaners. I don't know about using Simple Green. The Carb Cleaner is recommended because it leaves no residue which will attract more soot, which is what you want, nothing in the system that will attract soot. I let my parts dry overnight and installed the following day.

mkmac · 03-22-2016, **(Subject: Disappearing Coolant )**

(03-21-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote: Well, I was under the truck today. So I looked for a leak at the bunk. Nope. So I went inside and looked under the bunk. Couldn't see anything, but I sure could smell it.

And I can't even find a radiator cap! Would I be pressurizing through the reservoir??? That doesn't seem right.

But the truck has started throwing codes. Volvo couldn't tell me exactly what it was, but were able to narrow it down to the EGR. So I guess I'll be giving the truck the RAWZE treatment when I get back from Arkansas. Is there a thread with the step-by-step or do I just have to watch the videos over and over until I get it?

If you smell antifreeze with the heater on it is definitely the bunk heater probably one of the o rings. just remove the screw and slide pipes back you will see the o rings will be flat. might as well pull out heater core and check it,if it's leaking it will show on the core they are cheap.