Disappearing Coolant

[DrivingZiggy]

(03-22-2016 )mkmac Wrote:  

(03-21-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote:  Well, I was under the truck today. So I looked for a leak at the bunk. Nope. So I went inside and looked under the bunk. Couldn't see anything, but I sure could smell it.

And I can't even find a radiator cap! Would I be pressurizing through the reservoir??? That doesn't seem right.

But the truck has started throwing codes. Volvo couldn't tell me exactly what it was, but were able to narrow it down to the EGR. So I guess I'll be giving the truck the RAWZE treatment when I get back from Arkansas. Is there a thread with the step-by-step or do I just have to watch the videos over and over until I get it?

If you smell antifreeze with the heater on it is definitely the bunk heater probably one of the o rings. just remove the screw and slide pipes back you will see the o rings will be flat. might as well pull out heater core and check it,if it's leaking it will show on the core they are cheap.

Yup. Verified with the dealer that they have them in stock. Will pick one up when I pick up my new doser and sensors.

[DrivingZiggy]

Well, I got started on this today. The only thing I have left to remove on the cold side is the EGR. Shucks, I don't even know if I'll be able to do it! It's pretty far under the cab on my Volvo...

[DrivingZiggy]

Dang! This is a hard job for somebody like me. Being a Volvo doesn't help things. I still haven't managed to get the EGR off. Shucks, I haven't even got the heat shield off yet! I got the 3 bolts out, but it still didn't want to come out. So I watched Rawze's vids again and discovered that there's a 4th bolt! Dammit! Then I begin the fight to get the EGR off.

I've been looking for the video where Rawze shows that the replacement actuator isn't the same shape as the original. But I can't find it! Can somebody help with that?

[snailexpress]

(03-25-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote:  Dang! This is a hard job for somebody like me. Being a Volvo doesn't help things. I still haven't managed to get the EGR off. Shucks, I haven't even got the heat shield off yet! I got the 3 bolts out, but it still didn't want to come out. So I watched Rawze's vids again and discovered that there's a 4th bolt! Dammit! Then I begin the fight to get the EGR off.

I've been looking for the video where Rawze shows that the replacement actuator isn't the same shape as the original. But I can't find it! Can somebody help with that?

First time is always first.
1. Disconnect all wires from battery. It's very important!!!!. EGR will short them on the starter if you don"t.
2. Remove this freaking splash cover. There is two bolts to the rear, one bolt to the frame, two bolts holding to hood support and remove hood release cable.
3. Remove ventury pipe, EGR to intake pipe.
4. Remove heat shield from EGR
5 Unbolt EGR and rock it from side to side simultaneously pull it out toward vehicle front.
EGR is sitting in kinda rubber seal. Some effort required. Once EGR is free slide it little bit down on the starter and turn it around and pull outside.
Side fairing should be removed.
all bolts are metric.

[snailexpress]

Some pics.

[DrivingZiggy]

(03-25-2016 )snailexpress Wrote:  

(03-25-2016 )DrivingZiggy Wrote:  Dang! This is a hard job for somebody like me. Being a Volvo doesn't help things. I still haven't managed to get the EGR off. Shucks, I haven't even got the heat shield off yet! I got the 3 bolts out, but it still didn't want to come out. So I watched Rawze's vids again and discovered that there's a 4th bolt! Dammit! Then I begin the fight to get the EGR off.

I've been looking for the video where Rawze shows that the replacement actuator isn't the same shape as the original. But I can't find it! Can somebody help with that?

First time is always first.
1. Disconnect all wires from battery. It's very important!!!!. EGR will short them on the starter if you don"t.
2. Remove this freaking splash cover. There is two bolts to the rear, one bolt to the frame, two bolts holding to hood support and remove hood release cable.
3. Remove ventury pipe, EGR to intake pipe.
4. Remove heat shield from EGR
5 Unbolt EGR and rock it from side to side simultaneously pull it out toward vehicle front.
EGR is sitting in kinda rubber seal. Some effort required. Once EGR is free slide it little bit down on the starter and turn it around and pull outside.
Side fairing should be removed.
all bolts are metric.

Number 4 is where I'm having my problem. I finally got to where I can see the bolt, but I can't get on it. I've tried using all of my extensions with a universal holding the socket, but I can't get it. I went under the truck and couldn't even see it because of the starter. This is getting really frustrating! I just texted my nephew to see if he can come and help.

[DrivingZiggy]

So I came home to wash the parts. Didn't have to come home for that, but I needed a break!

[Rawze]

I have helped many people with Volvo trucks. It is a tight fit, but i have never had trouble removing EGR valve to help someone to clean the carbon and soot build up form it.

BTW: I hope you do know that the EGR valve does NOT have coolant running through it. I know you mentioned you had a coolant leak.

[DrivingZiggy]

Yeah, found the coolant leak. It's the sleeper heater core. Well, maybe just the o-rings. But I bought a new core. Surprisingly, it didn't come with o-rings. So we went to the nearest O'Reilly's and got a couple that fit. No good. So we put the old ones in. Still no good.

Now, the old ones looked like some kind of "step down" type of o-ring. So I then went to the dealership and got the "correct" o-rings and they look to be quite similar to the O'Reilly's ones, just maybe thicker. So the parts called a mechanic up front. He said that sometimes the clamp that holds the tubes into the core bend. So I also picked up one of those. Discussed the job with my nephew, and we're gonna try. Perhaps these new o-rings are a "crush" type? We'll see. We're gonna give it a shot at noon--a couple of hours away.

Oh, and the entire system really didn't look so bad. Really not all that much soot. A small amount of corrosion around the actuator which the dealership wouldn't sell me because it's part of the entire EGR valve and costs over $900. Cleaned everything anyhow and replaced sensors. Painted the intake, venturi, and sleeve while they were out. Scraped as much paint off of the bolts as we could, so they now are nice and shiny. I hope they don't rust!

So everything went back together nicely--you never know if it will when I'm working on something! And she cranked just fine with the new batteries. But I didn't run her for very long because of the leak. I hope the new o-rings are what we need.