Any way to know??

[JMBT]

CM 2250 demandated, smokes a bit after I idle to warm up, once I start down the road. It quits smoking entirely once I am cruising down the road. Doesn’t smoke at all after I have idled at a stop light, or anytime after the truck is warmed up and running, even in a hard pull or hard jake.
I have talked to several on the forum about it and the general consensus seems to be, failing valve guide seals.
My question: is there anyway, other then pulling the exhaust manifold, to be sure it is valve guide seals before I fork out $1000 for tools and pull all of the injectors???
Thanks

[Hammerhead]

(10-21-2017 )JMBT Wrote:  CM 2250 demandated, smokes a bit after I idle to warm up, once I start down the road. It quits smoking entirely once I am cruising down the road. Doesn’t smoke at all after I have idled at a stop light, or anytime after the truck is warmed up and running, even in a hard pull or hard jake.
I have talked to several on the forum about it and the general consensus seems to be, failing valve guide seals.
My question: is there anyway, other then pulling the exhaust manifold, to be sure it is valve guide seals before I fork out $1000 for tools and pull all of the injectors???
Thanks

You could pull the valve rocker shafts and visually inspect the v/g seals with a light and magnifying glass. It's not a "perfect" way to do it, but it will give a fairly good indication.

I don't know what you have for tools, but the valve spring compressor isn't that expensive, and it really is the only special tool really required. A decent pair of water pump or channel lock pliers will remove the old seals. I use deep well sockets to install the new ones.
If you have everything to R&R the injectors, all you really need is the spring compressor, and it's only about $300.00 iirc.

[JMBT]

Hammer: thanks for the feedback!! Yeah I was looking at the cummins spring compressor. I found it on line for $391 I think, then I believe they showed a special tool for seating the new seals and one for seating the injectors?? I like your idea of the pliers for removal and a deep socket for installing the seals that will save some bucks. I was also thinking of getting a small indexable pry bar like Rawze had in his 871 injector video for prying up the injectors to remove them. I have a shi#t-ton of pry bars, but none that are indexable. Trying to gather everything I need. I haven’t ever pulled injectors before so that is a bit scary, but I watched Rawzes video on the 871 injectors, and I’m thinking it should be a bit easier on the 2250 because of no injector cam. Anyway, that’s how you learn right, I have to try it sometime.
I think I will try and inspect them first, like you mentioned, with a light and mag glass. If I could just get some kind of a visual confirmation before I start pulling injectors that would be great. Any other tips or tricks you can pass along would be much appreciated!

[Rawze]

(10-22-2017 )JMBT Wrote:  Hammer: thanks for the feedback!! Yeah I was looking at the cummins spring compressor. I found it on line for $391 I think, then I believe they showed a special tool for seating the new seals and one for seating the injectors?? I like your idea of the pliers for removal and a deep socket for installing the seals that will save some bucks. I was also thinking of getting a small indexable pry bar like Rawze had in his 871 injector video for prying up the injectors to remove them. I have a shi#t-ton of pry bars, but none that are indexable. Trying to gather everything I need. I haven’t ever pulled injectors before so that is a bit scary, but I watched Rawzes video on the 871 injectors, and I’m thinking it should be a bit easier on the 2250 because of no injector cam. Anyway, that’s how you learn right, I have to try it sometime.
I think I will try and inspect them first, like you mentioned, with a light and mag glass. If I could just get some kind of a visual confirmation before I start pulling injectors that would be great. Any other tips or tricks you can pass along would be much appreciated!

Follow all procedures and cautions. Working on common rail injector systems can be extremely dangerous with the high pressure fuel. Have someone familiar with the system go over it with you as well.

[Hammerhead]

(10-22-2017 )Rawze Wrote:  Follow all procedures and cautions. Working on common rail injector systems can be extremely dangerous with the high pressure fuel. Have someone familiar with the system go over it with you as well.

^^^Whqt Rawze said^^^
I have never R&R'd an injector on one of the common rail engines yet, so I have no first hand experience to offer any tips other than;
1) Use EXTREME CAUTION when working with a fuel system that retains nearly 40,000psi of pressure in it, even after shut down!
2) Properly mark the injectors and put them back in the correct position because they each have their own trim code and they are entered into the ECM.
You can get an adjustable heel bar (like Rawze's) from Napa...

[Waterloo]

I forget where the hell I was, or where this happened. A mechanic was working on one of these high pressure systems and it cut lose on him, caught his hand right in the palm as he jumped back. He nearly lost his hand, it took months for it to heal and I believe a few surgeries to remove dead tissue, not from the slice, but the fuel that was injected directly into his hand. I believe he lost quite a bit of movement in the hand too. Not something I would go near without the proper tools and knowledge.

[JMBT]

Thanks for the warnings guys! I had the whole system apart when I did the new fuel pump, lines, and mounts. I bled the pressure off like Quick serve instructed before I started disassembly. Same procedure for venting the pressure this time, right? Once the pressure is gone I am good to go?

[Hammerhead]

(10-22-2017 )JMBT Wrote:  Thanks for the warnings guys! I had the whole system apart when I did the new fuel pump, lines, and mounts. I bled the pressure off like Quick serve instructed before I started disassembly. Same procedure for venting the pressure this time, right? Once the pressure is gone I am good to go?

I don't know for sure.
I would print and read the entire injector R&R procedure, twice, before I even put my work clothes on, nevermind picked up a wrench. They put very clear warnings where fuel pressure may be present, the liability of not doing so would bankrupt them.
The fuel system achieves enough pressure to inject fuel DURING the power stroke! Unless someone is confident they can stop a piston with only body parts, I would not only verify, I'd double and triple check!

[JMBT]

Duely notes guys, and thanks again! I will do a bit more reasearch and get some tools ordered in. Looks like the end of next week will be the soonest I will have the time to start wrenching, so I have some time before then to figure everything out. I will put in a call to a friend who works at a nearby Pete dealer and see if he can verify the venting procedure for removing the injectors. I know he has done his share of 2250’s and can shed a bit of light on the situation too.