Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions

[Hammerhead]

I've finally got some work so I'm back on the road. Heading empty, stacked up to Milwaukee to load a 12'4"W X 31'L X 11'6"H 75,000lb control room for a P&H Boss 4100 shovel.
OK, it's Review time...
I did a bunch of work to the ole girl this time while at home. It has been running warmer than normal this since spring.
1)Removed VGT turbo actuator, inspected turbine for play, all felt good. Checked the swing of the VG arm, it moved full travel smoothly with no sticky spots or hang-ups, both visually and according to the gauge. It did squeak as I moved it. Did not remove or change turbo. Recalibrated the actuator and installed with Insite, all tests and calibrations passed twice.
2)cleaned the gunk out of my A/C condenser, then moved it out of the way and while cleaning the CAC I noticed some staining and trace coolant on the bottom of the rad. Pulled the rad and CAC. After assessment, replaced the rad with a new aftermarket copper and brass one.
3)leak tested the CAC, it was just over the specs listed on Quickserve, so new CAC installed as well
While the rad and CAC were out for service...
4)installed a new pyro, sensor probe drilled and tapped downstream of the turbo since I didn't pull the turbo.
4a)installed a mechanical boost gauge
5)replaced both front and rear valve rocker shafts as the detents were worn. This included a top end set.
6)replaced all 6 Jake Brake check valves and retarder springs in the Jake rocker arms
7)during reassembly, I replaced all rad hoses, including the two lower steel ones as they looked to be in rough shape. I also replaced all heater hoses, as well as all new hoses to and from the genset
8)after reassembly, I used Restore and did a complete cooling system flush to clean out the big motor and genset motor to help address operating temp issue.
After all that was done, I test ran it and all seemed good...
Then I ran the trailer over to switch section and stack up to head to Milwaukee. When I got back to the shop I was at 205* water temp! Not happy with myself. I tried to save a couple of dollars and didn't change the thermostat. Big mistake.
Well, since I was at good operating oil temps, and I was close to change time anyway, I backed it back in the shop and pulled the oil plug and left it drain overnight.
The next day,
9)dropped the oil pan and did the oil pump relief spring shim job. I added 7 dimes as a starting point. (I have a separate thread for this procedure)
10)drained out some coolant and changed my thermostat, nothing like doin it the hard way! Take my advise, if you're doing cooling system work anyway, change the damn stat! (See the photos of the stat in the WARMER TEMPS thread, it was junk!) I told Cummins to install a new stat at the time of the inframe 2 years ago. This was why I didn't change it in the first place, I thought it was only 2yrs old, I'm quite confident that didn't happen judging by the condition of it.

Now the Results
1)the turbo is MUCH quieter than before, and sounds good. I still hear the slightest of squealing, but very little. This can probably also be attributed to
3)CAC being replaced. I now think some of the squealing I was hearing was actually resonating from the CAC boost leak. The turbo sounds more stable than previously, but I haven't run with the laptop and Insite connected to see turbo rpm yet.
Results of 1 & 3: A, with further results yet to come...
2, 7, 8, & 10)now that I've redone my cooling system, complete with boneheaded late stat replacement, wow does she ever run cool now. I'm not loaded yet, so the real test is yet to come, but it didn't get over 185 water and 205 oil temp. I haven't seen oil temps much under 210 for as long as I can remember.
Results of 2, 7, 8, & 10: A+
4 & 4a)installed GlowShift mechanical boost & pyro gauges, I can now properly monitor these critical readings. Boost peaks about 39psi, pyro hasn't exceeded 750*.
Results of 4 & 4a: F for my tardiness about finally getting this done, A for About time, and I like the gauges, with further results yet to come..
5 & 6)no more tapping sound in my engine! Jakes, all I can say is Holy $h!t I forgot how good the jakes on an ISX are! Ok, I cannot stress this enough, my advise is if you are handy and do your own top end sets, then for gods sake change the damn springs in the rocker shafts! I'm confident good springs will prevent or reduce rocker shaft detent hole and Jake arm check valves from wearing. For the low cost of these springs I recommend, and I WILL change these springs during all top end sets from now on! I hope I'm not being unclear on this subject. It's $45 or less for 6 new springs. This is by far the cheapest serviceable item in your motor, why ruin a ~$500 set of shafts to save $45? Not to mention you will restore your Jaking power, and I assure you you have lost some and aren't aware of it! (Spring part numbers listed in previous post)
Results of 5 & 6: AAA, Grand Slam, 'nuff said! Highlight reel assists for Wiseman & Mr Hagg for their advise on this! Thanks guys!
9)oil pump shim, I used 7 dimes. Had 47psi oil pressure at cold startup with fresh oil. Runs at 42-43 at 205* oil operating temp, right where I wanted it! (More detailed explanation of results in my Shim Oil Pump thread)
Results of 9: A, with further results to be posted in oil pump shim thread.
Oh yeah, and one more thing I forgot to list in the job list above, between 7 & 8...
7.5)replaced crankshaft vibration damper with aftermarket Vibratech.
Results of 7.5: A+ I think...I did a lot of work, but I didn't replace any injectors or really fix anything that was obviously broken to smooth out the operation of the engine. I cannot rule out the increased oil pressure as part of the overall smoother engine, but yes the vibration reduction is very noticeable. This is the first time I have ever changed a crank damper, the original had about 671,000miles on it.

Overall some good work and I'm quite happy with the results thus far.