ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
01-24-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #10
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
Post your pictures here. These guys will help you.


User's Signature: 2015 Kenworth T660
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01-24-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #11
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
Biggest cost will be the turbo, if it really is leaking as they state. You could save a bit in labor by doing all the work yourself, but the parts list seems fairly accurate. You also need to go through and do the EGR tune-up. Replace those sensors and take a good look at all the air intake and exhaust recirculation parts. Could have an underlying problem that caused your turbo to fail (again, assuming their diagnosis is correct), such as restricted air flow, bad EGR valve, problems with the EGR cooler or just really bad sensor readings.

If you're keeping the emissions system then you'll need to pull off the DPF and DOC, have international clean and flow test it (that was a good price they quoted for that). You will need new gaskets and band clamps for the DPF when you reassemble it. While you're at it might as well replace any other gaskets and clamps between the turbo and DPF to eliminate leaks. Fix any missing or broken exhaust hangers as this will cause leaks around the gaskets. Remove and clean or replace the DPF doser injector, gasket and thermal isolator. That is a huge contributor to low DPF temps during a regen, as is a faulty EGR valve.

All this work can be done yourself, but you will need Insite to reset the computer when you reinstall the cleaned DPF and, if i'm not mistaken, you also need Insite to calibrate the turbo when (if) it's replaced.

As someone else pointed out you'll need to check and clean or replace your CAC if it has been collecting oil from the turbo.

Most folks on here recommend YTS turbo's. I have no experience with them so search the forum for more info.

As someone else pointed out you may want to just take it over to Price Diesel. They might be able to help with a better solution for your emissions problems too.


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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01-24-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #12
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
16k+ <------- Un-F'n-believable!... And it would most likely go higher before it was all said and done if you were to go that route.

My whole damn truck cost just under 30k! It's a shame how many people get put into a financial clusterfu$! because of situations like this!


Pay attention to what many of the guys here have to say....with the info you can absorb, you'll be able to do a thorough job along with saving a large chunk of change.
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01-24-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #13
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
Personally, without putting this man down. I just believe he is in need of professional help, so therefore I recommend going to Price's diesel. Hopefully he wont need a turbo.


User's Signature: It's hard to win an argument with a smart person, but it's damn near impossible to win an argument with a stupid person
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01-25-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #14
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
I thought we had you squared away?
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01-25-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #15
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
iMap 2897334

Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor 4928594

Delta P 4921728
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01-25-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #16
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
I would toss that quote into the trash can. Nothing on it is of any help except to tell you how fast they can drain your wallet of some big bucks!.

-- Also, if the turbo is leaking oil into the CAC,.. that is kinda normal (its known as turbo slobber), as they tend to slobber when you idle a lot, and when it is cold.

Just check to see if the intake manifold side is not getting wet/soaked with oil too,.. that is when you need to start worrying, otherwise, its no big deal at all.

It looks to me like your problem is that no one has given 2 Shits about that engine or its health up until now ... If you think for one dam minute that the stealers$it or any other repair shop is going to care, or even look past whatever parts they can sell you, then you are gravely mistaken
!!!-- They only put out fires enough to get you out of their door and could give a damn less !!!

The question is WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO ABOUT IT!? -- because no one besides the truck owner (YOU) is going to start leading that engine down the path that can reverse all this neglect and 'no-give-a-shi#t', driving it around like a blind fool, thinking that regular ACTUAL maintenance and preventative measures aren't necessary every few months. HOPEFULLY, now your eyes are open to this, and you can start down a better path with it.

Start by doing what is recommended by others on here... Get your hands dirty and learn how to own a truck with an actual profit margin, get a better business plan together, and start learn how to keep the equipment you have in good health YOURSELF!!! -- That, or sell it and go back to being a company driver,.. you would make more money.

* New IMAP, new exhaust gas pressure sensor (+ clean out its feed-tube),new Delta-P sensors (egr and dpf)(+ clean out its feed-tube), clean out all egr piping, clean the Doser injector, check it for seepage while the pipe is away from the turbo a bit... on and on.. the neglect needs to be reversed for you to have a fighting chance of making that 'DPF" happy... because that thing IS ONLY A FILTER! -- IT IS THE ENIGNE THAT IS THE PROBLEM, CLOGGING IT UP!.

And lastly,.. remove the DOC and DPF, inspect everything, take pics, post them here,.. and then take them off to the stealersh$it to have them baked and flow tested for a few hundred bucks.

this stuff should have been doine the day you purchased it ... it should have been done several times in its past .. and it is exactly this neglect that has caused it to be the at the shape it is in now ...

IF YOU GET A REGEN REQUEST ALARM OR LIGHT -- YOU HAVE ALREADY LOST THIS GAME AND IT IS ALREADY IN DIRE STRAIGHTS!!!! -- THAT IS HOW BAD IT IS BY THE TIME IT EVEN SHOWS UP ON THE DASH!!! -- That system is akin to the old idiot lights of the 1970's cars.. by the time the light goes off, it waay too late, and some damage has already been done + some major steps by taking things apart and cleaning them all out / replacing sensors/ it necessary to get it back even somewhat right again!. - That 'parked' or 'forced' regen IS the sign that the system has already failed completely!


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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01-25-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #17
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
(01-25-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  I thought we had you squared away?

For those who missed it, his story began HERE. It seems like this is the continuation of that story.


User's Signature: "...And as we wind on down the road, Our Shadows taller than our Soul..."
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01-25-2020, (Subject: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) ) 
Post: #18
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2)
tbw: even if you plan on de-mandating it and gutting that system off it ...

YOU STILL NEED TO FIX THE DAMN ENGINE AND ITS CLOGGED UP SENSORS!!! -- THE ENGINE STILL USES/NEEDS MOST OF THESE SENSORS, like the imap, exhaust bp sensors, etc. FOR IT TO TO RUN PROPERLY!

Properly adjustng overhead valves,.. and all the rest of the neglect too.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: D_Y_F_B_A_E




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