ISX won’t Regen properly

[Rawze]

First and foremost, during the forced regen cycle, the exhaust temp from the engine is supposed to be 500 degrees-F~thereabouts.

Next, The DPF Inlet temp and Outlet temp are what will raise to 1000+F once the Doser injector starts to spray fuel.


Next, your first statement is what is wrong...."Always in a hurry" leads directly to NEGLECT, Shortcut methods all the time, half-arssed speed-gun happy morons in the shop and no one has the time to learn, care for, or do things right. THIS COSTS EXPONENTIALLY MORE THAN TAKING THE TIME TO DO THINGS RIGHT!!!!. - Whoever is making those decisions to "hurry up and get it out" all the time needs their head pulled out of their arsse!. Piss-poor management if I have ever heard of it. I see it way too often, then the people operating and relying on the eqipment do nothing but complain because it is always having issues and things b reak down 2-3x more often than they should.


Next: START BY replacing the IMAP and other sensors on the engine that are more than a couple years old.. It is called an EGR tune-up for a reason. - Again, NEGLECT! .. then everyone wondering why those systems act up all the time.

Next: Ensure all the Delta-P tubing and sensors are cleaned out and sensors operating correctly. Also the Exhaust gas pressure sensor and its tubing is clear. I.E.> go thru the thing and clean everythig out and replace old sensors that tend to read wrong whenever they get old.

NEXT: You said you did not do a rail leak test ... THIS IS a far more important test than that stupid injector performance test that quite frankly is mostly useless. What is the leak rate of the rail?. More than 4,000 psi in one minute and its no good...
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NEXT: Nox sensors are on the J1939. IF they are not reading in range, or are not communicating, etc.. there will be a fault for them in the ecm. - Unless someone has done some custom tuning on the engine, No faults = they are communicating and reading something that is within an acceptable range (although it may not be accurate). Also, they are only good for about 250k miles or so (or about 6,000 engine hours) then tend to start reading incorrectly as the heating element inside them starts to go bad. They will not usually throw a fault, they are still reading in range, but incorrectly enough to cause things like excess def fluid usage or other emissions issues.

NEXT: When the DPF and DOC were sent off to have them baked out ... did anyone bother to go into Insite and perform a DPF Replacement procedure to reset the Soot-Load counter and teach the engine how the new filter element should read on its Delta-P sensor? -- Avoiding the exact counter and fault code that you are now complaining about? -- If NOT and like you said... "Someone was in a goddamn hurry" ... ... Then the engine is not going to reset and clear out its soot-load counters. Later on, a constant fault of 1921- Excess Estimated Soot load!. That ECM is notorious for throwing that fault because it ESTIMATES how much soot has accumulated in the dpf regardless of how the sensors are reading.

The only way to undo/correct this, if someone did not do that step and then the truck was driven for months ... is to remove the DOC and DPF again, go have them Baked on a proper machine, de-ashed, flow-tested, and re-installed again ... AND THE RESET PERFORMED ININSITE!. Simply resetting the counter in Insite without actually making sure the DPF is clean will cause other more severe issues later on.


What does the regen history and what does it look like? - Post a pic of the regen history screen in Insite.

What does the face of the DPf look like? - Anyone bother to visually look at the face of the DPf to see if it is clogged up? - and what might have done it if it is? -- Soot?, Coolant intrusion? Excess oil intrusion? . it is not that difficult to see what clogged it up once you look at it.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...7#pid10137

Like others have said ... What are the engine operating hours? -- mileage? more info is needed...and is it a CM2250 or CM2350?. An ESN# would help if your not sure.