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Full Version: Broken exhaust manifold bolt CM870
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I found this nice surprise yesterday. I plan on hanging a new manifold and turbo + all attaching hoses and lines when I get to pulling it apart. I do see a little oil residue around the port but I'm hoping its nothing to worry about.

What is the best approach to extracting the broken stud? I can't say I'm any good at extracting bolts and this one I just dont want to get in deeper than I have to. It is #6 and the hardest to get to. I have a mig welder with stick capabilities. I also have drill, grinders and various extractors. The approach I want to do is to stick weld a nut to the stud and turn it out. Is this the best 1st approach? Any finesse tips from the guys that do them more frequently?

Also when I get a new manifold, I'd like to know if there is a manifold part number that doesn't have the EGR port being I don't have EGR on this truck anymore. I want to eliminate having to use the blocking plate. But I still need the tube for the exhaust pressure sensor in the correct place.
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It looks pretty close to being flush with the head. If it was me, I'd try a pick or small punch to try turning it first. If that didn't work, I'd mig a nut on it.
(01-15-2020 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ]It looks pretty close to being flush with the head. If it was me, I'd try a pick or small punch to try turning it first. If that didn't work, I'd mig a nut on it.

I had three broke off at same time on mine. Left handed drill bit done the deal on two, the other one had to mig a nut on. Good luck
I just went through this not long ago, Here's my story.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=5241
(01-15-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: [ -> ]...
Also when I get a new manifold, I'd like to know if there is a manifold part number that doesn't have the EGR port being I don't have EGR on this truck anymore. I want to eliminate having to use the blocking plate. But I still need the tube for the exhaust pressure sensor in the correct place.

order the section for #5,6 and cut out the bung on the front side section for the exhaust pressure sensor pipe, drill hole, then weld it onto the new piece.
When you buy the new updated manifold make sure you get the slip joint rings for them very easy to miss.
Used one of these for the first time about 8 or 9 months ago. I think it was the smallest one. https://www.theoriginalrescuebit.com I use this small die grinder to run it http://corporate.cornwelltools.com/webca...nder.html# Over the last 45 or so years I have seen and tried just about everything for removing broken bolts and studs except EDM. Until I tried one of these, carbide burrs in the die grinder was as good as it got. Had an exhaust manifold bolt broken off in a tight place. Compounded the problem by breaking a bit off in it. My bad. No good access for a mig. Was down to pulling the head or lifting the engine enough to get it above the frame rail. This was a little "toy" V8 diesel in a medium duty truck. The packaging sucks. So I saw this and thought OK I'll take a shot. Didn't really have much hope it would live up to it's claims. I was wrong. These are very very hard. Not only does the tip cut so do the flutes. I have a set of hardness testing files. I couldn't make a mark on these. Had a question and the owner/inventer actually answered the phone. Seems these have been around for a while but I had never come across them. Have used it maybe 4 times total now. It will gut that bolt in less than 2 minutes. Whats left of the bolt threads will fall out or can be picked out. The faster you can run it the better and it runs dry. Last use was on a DT466 that came in with 3 exhaust manifold bolts pre broken off flush with head. Got the manifold off and went after the broken bolts. About a minute per bolt. Next time maybe I will break a tap off to make it a challenge!!! Just kidding

Unilevers

i have a source for the for the front manifold piece without EGR and the proper bung cast into it. They are around 250bucks.
(01-15-2020 )Unilevers Wrote: [ -> ]i have a source for the for the front manifold piece without EGR and the proper bung cast into it. They are around 250bucks.

PM me. I believe I'll be tearing into it this weekend. If this source can get me all 3 manifold pieces that would be even better. I hate sourcing things from multiple places. Will it need the slip joint seals marek4792 referenced?
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