I suppose the way I would test everything is Cap the fuel pressure regulator first and redo lead test if that doesn't work leave it capped and do one injector at a time with the injector cap and then if that doesn't work leave a fuel pressure regulator and then start capping multiple injectors at a time. The biggest thing with this test is to always remember the fuel is under so much pressure that it can kill you by injecting into your skin so if you don't feel confident in what you're doing don't do it
Also could be fuel pump head if capping multiple injectors didn't work the how to test that I'm unsure
Does a 2350 require injector trim codes?
Is there a way to bleed the pressure down to zero with insite so you can keep opening the system ?
Only way I know is crack an injector line the way their designed the initial pressure release should be captured in the nut on the line as it's a compression type but like you see on non push to connect air line fittings but you still want to keep your hands arms and body away from any possible direction that it could spray if it should happen
(10-20-2020 )tree98 Wrote: [ -> ]Is there a way to bleed the pressure down to zero with insite so you can keep opening the system ?
The fuel line supplying the rail from the pump is designed to bleed off the pressure somewhat safely at its fitting up on the rail. Always follow the quickserv procedures for working on the fuel rail.
Rawze is correct quickserve has all this info along with all safety precautions that should be used
Turns out my pressure leak is the fuel pressure releif why the truck seems to be running a little rough I don't know because the relief valve is just barely dripping