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Let me know what you find out. I'm still trying to find out the cause. If I solve the problem I will post it.
I think I found my problem. A air brake shop told me to disconnect the hoses from brake valve that say "del" and see which one is pushing air back into brake valve. The one pushing air back controls brakes. When I put my thumb over hose pushing air out its as if I was pressing brakes, trailer as well. Even lights come on. What valve would that be? I'm going to follow that air line but I don't know the name of the valve. I'll post a pic of air line. It has black tape on it. I'll update as soon as I confirm its fixed.
Oh, yeah... That looks like that can turn into a little nightmare and foul language if that valve starts malfunctioning.

That's weird how they have a black plastic T valve and another brass metal T valve under the port marked DEL.

I think I'd replace those 2 T valves also if I had to replace that main valve above it too. That way you don't have to go back later and trouble shoot those two little ones.

I was told in the past that Bendix has free online training courses (video) for anyone who wants to watch them. Covering brakes and air systems.

If you don't pin point the culprit soon, maybe one of those videos will cover that valve in your photo.
I've always wondered and tried to find a product someone can fill into the air tanks that would leak a dye. That way you could see where there was air leaking thru your system.
(09-20-2016 )Bahdan Wrote: [ -> ]I've always wondered and tried to find a product someone can fill into the air tanks that would leak a dye. That way you could see where there was air leaking thru your system.

Actually, a smoke test would be better. I know a few mechanics that use them on gas engines to find manifold or vacuum leaks.
(09-20-2016 )Bahdan Wrote: [ -> ]I've always wondered and tried to find a product someone can fill into the air tanks that would leak a dye. That way you could see where there was air leaking thru your system.

In2trux is right, I've seen those smoke testers over the years at a few shops too. I think they were made by Emtech or Emytech. My memory is fuzzy.

I've also seen where a shade tree mechanic took a coffee can and lit a cigar and used the smoke off the cigar to fill a motor to check for vacuum leaks.
They found the problem with mine. It was the ABS relay valve underneath the 5th wheel. The guy replaced it with a used one (he said the new one runs like $500). No more air leaks so far.

This might not have anything to do with it but this had never happened until they swapped out this valve... I had a voltage spike yesterday. It was raising past 15.5 v so I pulled over and turned off the truck. When i got back on the road, it was running good. Mine runs at like 14.8 all the time. But later on in the day it was going past 15v so i was getting the buzzer and volt light on. So I would just turn on the AC full blast to bring it down. Any ideas? About to run a search on the forum on this.
Suspect voltage regulator.

I replaced the alternator on my pickup the other day because voltage was erratic.
Reman alternator right out of the box was bad so now I get to do it again.
Thanks Napa!
(09-22-2016 )in2trux Wrote: [ -> ]Suspect voltage regulator.

I replaced the alternator on my pickup the other day because voltage was erratic.
Reman alternator right out of the box was bad so now I get to do it again.
Thanks Napa!

Dang, I'm surprised they burnt you on an alternator. For years I have only gone to NAPA for distributor caps, points and other ignition parts on older vehicles and tractors.

I guess it's bound to happen sooner or later. I always thought Eklin and some of their other electrical parts were a little bit better grade than the cheapo, 24 hours auto parts stores around here.
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