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I've been getting fault codes related to the VGT Actuator, my guess is it's sticking. I've gone through the troubleshooting on Cummins Quickserve and its not an electrical issue. Recently had the return radiator hose blow out on me and did not refill using a vacuum pressure system. At first, I thought it may be carbon buildup but during inspection of the exhaust side of the turbo and the doser injector elbow pipe I found some white residue. I'm thinking it could be coolant from a leak in the EGR Cooler or fuel additives. Just trying to confirm my suspicions or get insight into what it could possibly be and how I can go about repairing the VGT Actuator issue. Was thinking I could purchase the {garbage product name removed by rawze} to clean the EGR, EGR Cooler and Turbo.

Thanks!

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Avoid using those cleaning solutions while the components are still installed, carbon flaking will make a bad day much much worse!! Remove the egr components from the engine then clean them!!

If you're suspecting the cooler has a leak pressure test the cooling system and let it sit overnight and remove the EGR cooler outlet tube and leave a small bowl or pan below it. If you have a high mileage motor it wouldn't hurt to drop the pan to rule out an impending headgasket(due to dropped liner) or Injector cup failure..
first of all. is this truck deleted?... or are all of th emissions systems in tact?.

NEXT: That product you mention is nothing but garbage!... a destroyed turbo is in its near future if you think you can clean out the EGR cooler with it still on the truck.

ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid72228
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid28133
Is it giving you positioning errors?.. or just communications errors like shown in the fault list above?.

As far as the communications errors in your list there in regards to the turbo actuator.. Does the J1939 can-network #2 have 60 ohms on it properly when checking it at the "Weather-Pack" connector? ... or some other value?.
Carbon flaking does not sound fun, thanks for the advice.

The truck is not de-mandated but was in the past, there was never any block plates installed, just new ECM and DPF filter. That is why I was thinking it could be carbon buildup messing up the actuator. Any thoughts on the white residue?
(08-10-2022 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]Is it giving you positioning errors?.. or just communications errors like shown in the fault list above?.

As far as the communications errors in your list there in regards to the turbo actuator.. Does the J1939 can-network #2 have 60 ohms on it properly when checking it at the "Weather-Pack" connector? ... or some other value?.

The needle on the turbo gauge goes up to about 15 psi and stops. Every once in a while it will go to around 30 which is the normal psi but will fluctuate back down and then go back up. Are you referring to the connector on the actuator? I checked the ohms between pin 3 and 4 and together they have 120 ohms Should I check the ohms between pin 2 and 3 for 60?

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my dad got tricked into buying this thing. i find its to late for most EGR systems when people go to use it. plus the chemical packed is like 700 bucks! now it sits in the corner of shop building up dust
(08-10-2022 )RMezaJr Wrote: [ -> ]
(08-10-2022 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]Is it giving you positioning errors?.. or just communications errors like shown in the fault list above?.

As far as the communications errors in your list there in regards to the turbo actuator.. Does the J1939 can-network #2 have 60 ohms on it properly when checking it at the "Weather-Pack" connector? ... or some other value?.

The needle on the turbo gauge goes up to about 15 psi and stops. Every once in a while it will go to around 30 which is the normal psi but will fluctuate back down and then go back up. Are you referring to the connector on the actuator? I checked the ohms between pin 3 and 4 and together they have 120 ohms Should I check the ohms between pin 2 and 3 for 60?

you did not listen to what I said.

plug everything back in... make sure the truck has been shut off for about 2 minutes.. CHECK THE RESISTANCE OF THE J1939 NETWORK AT THE "WEATHER-PACK" CONNECTOR... IT IS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE ENGINE...
REF: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...87#pid1087
(08-10-2022 )RMezaJr Wrote: [ -> ]...
The needle on the turbo gauge goes up to about 15 psi and stops. Every once in a while it will go to around 30 which is the normal psi but will fluctuate back down and then go back up.

IT SOUNDS TO ME SO FAR THAT YOU HAVE NO IDEA IF THE ENGINE COMPUTER IS TELLING IT TO DO THAT ...OR IF IT IS ACTUALLY ACTING UP!!!... STOP ASSUMING IT IS THE ACTUATOR BLINDLY!!!!

I SAW NO POSITIONING ERROR CODES IN YOUR POST ABOVE!. ONLY COMMUNICATIONS ERRORS!. FOR ALL ANYONE KNOWS, IT COULD BE A LOOSE DAMN WIRE, OR A PROBLEM ON THE J1939 NETWORK.

ALSO.. HAS ANYONE BOTHERED TO DO A PROPER TURBO INSPECTION???..
REF: https://youtu.be/ZUpKb5umv_0
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