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Hi there . could you please recommend me a company that rebuild properly 2872405 Cummins injectors..? (The local Cummins dealer quoted me around 2k/piece (sale). )
Thank you in advance.
You don't want rebuilt/reman injectors. Buy OEM Cummins ONLY !!!

Call around to different dealers in your general area to get the best price. How many do you need and why are you replacing them ?
Replacing them because 3 of them are leaking… looking to buy 3, or 6 depending on price…
(11-04-2023 )JaAdam Wrote: [ -> ]Hi there . could you please recommend me a company that rebuild properly 2872405 Cummins injectors..? (The local Cummins dealer quoted me around 2k/piece (sale). )
Thank you in advance.


WHY are you so convinced that you need your injectors replaced any ways ..???

Has anyone bothered to do a proper rail leak-down test to see if they are actually bad???>
Perform the injector test exactly like that video shows and then you can go from there towards solving any issues instead of guessing at things blindly ...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid75483

most of the time when the fuel rail gets leaky, it is the pressure relief valve or other components.

AND ALSO.. how many miles are on that fuel pump since the last time its guts were replaced?/?... Every 400k miles the guts need replacing to prevent total engine destruction, and to keep the fuel system healthy.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid78193
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Trying to save a few $$$ on internal engine components is shooting yourself in the foot before the race. You are doing nothing but jumping over a dollar to save a dime.

Here is the issues with places that rebuild common rail injectors...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...67#pid4367
Apologies, my bad I didn't describe/start properly...
Mileage is 550k, the head is new style - metallic plungers (I think they have more than 400k).
I am chasing a Fuel pump high pressure side leak... its drop from 29k psi to 300psi in 20seconds.. I brought it to a cummins local dealer dealer for troubleshooting.. they told me that the lift pump is out of specs.. I changed it (new gaskets, torquing to specs).. nothing changed. Toke it to couple Local Mechanics too… one told me that can be injectors or fuel release valve... (figured out then that just a gussying- he don't have even the fittings and the adapters to troubleshoot properly the problem... but he was willing to charge me $400... so I bought the proper fittings, gauges, adapters to troubleshoot it by my self… “Did my home work”… partially ..)
So that what I got…
Measured the air in fuel - no air in fuel.
Measured the fuel inlet restriction (at the gear pump )-found 0psi (Specs are less than 10psi).
Measured the fuel lift pump pressure - found around 25psi (specs 10 psi minimal)
Did High-Pressure System Leak Down Test 29k psi to 300psi in 20 sec.
DIDN’t did the High-Pressure Fuel Pump Performance Test- don’t have the tool…
Did the High-Pressure Fuel Pump Return Flow Test -found 12oz (specs 18oz minimum)
The manual is saying “If 525 ml/cc [ 18 fl-oz ] pump head drain flow is collected in less than 30 seconds, the fuel pump head has malfunctioned and must be replaced.”
I THINK THATS MY PROBLEM - What do you think? Do you recommend to change only the head or the shoe fuel pump?
Did the High-Pressure Injector Return Flow Test - found 4oz (specs are less than 7) so no leaking injectors.
The pressure relive valve, High pressure pump actuator are installed before the measures (Peterbilt dealer), (the actuator is reman).
(I got your message about rebuilding the injectors- Thanks)

Thank you in advance.
(11-08-2023 )JaAdam Wrote: [ -> ]Apologies, my bad I didn't describe/start properly...
Mileage is 550k, the head is new style - metallic plungers (I think they have more than 400k).
I am chasing a Fuel pump high pressure side leak... its drop from 29k psi to 300psi in 20seconds.. I brought it to a cummins local dealer dealer for troubleshooting.. they told me that the lift pump is out of specs.. I changed it (new gaskets, torquing to specs).. nothing changed. Toke it to couple Local Mechanics too… one told me that can be injectors or fuel release valve... (figured out then that just a gussying- he don't have even the fittings and the adapters to troubleshoot properly the problem... but he was willing to charge me $400... so I bought the proper fittings, gauges, adapters to troubleshoot it by my self… “Did my home work”… partially ..)
So that what I got…
Measured the air in fuel - no air in fuel.
Measured the fuel inlet restriction (at the gear pump )-found 0psi (Specs are less than 10psi).
Measured the fuel lift pump pressure - found around 25psi (specs 10 psi minimal)
Did High-Pressure System Leak Down Test 29k psi to 300psi in 20 sec.
DIDN’t did the High-Pressure Fuel Pump Performance Test- don’t have the tool…
Did the High-Pressure Fuel Pump Return Flow Test -found 12oz (specs 18oz minimum)
The manual is saying “If 525 ml/cc [ 18 fl-oz ] pump head drain flow is collected in less than 30 seconds, the fuel pump head has malfunctioned and must be replaced.”
I THINK THATS MY PROBLEM - What do you think? Do you recommend to change only the head or the shoe fuel pump?
Did the High-Pressure Injector Return Flow Test - found 4oz (specs are less than 7) so no leaking injectors.
The pressure relive valve, High pressure pump actuator are installed before the measures (Peterbilt dealer), (the actuator is reman).
(I got your message about rebuilding the injectors- Thanks)

Thank you in advance.

The proper procedures that are recommended to solve it.

ALSO.. does not matter what kind of plungers that fuel pump has.. ITS GUTS NEED REPLACING EVERY 400K MILES OR 8,000 HOURS!!!... SEEMS THAT YOU ARE NOT LISTENING!!!.

** #1... replace the pressure relief valve at the end of the rail if it has not been done yet!.

** #2... LOOSEN AND RE-TORQUE ALL QUELL TUBES FOR THE INJECTORS.. GET ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM AND THEN SEE IF IT PASSES!. Many times this will fix the issue if some work was done to injectors, etc. it in its past... many places do not do things correctly.

if it is still leaking too much after #1 and #$2 are done ...

** #3... CAP OFF UP TO 3 INJECTORS AT A TIME TO FIND THE LEAKY INJECTOR(S) using a cap-off kit from cummins. A poppit tester can also be used to find the issue if it is bad enough.. but there are no avail off the shelf for the ISX. One has to be adapted to fit. ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...56#pid2556

** #4... (it is fairly rare for someone to get to this point and still not find it) .... IT IS HIGHLY LIKELY THAT IT IS THE FUEL PUMP ITSELF AT THIS POINT!!!>
Question, what's the stance on reman injectors directly from Cummins? If I remember correctly they recently quoted me about $1600 for remans + core charge or just over $2100 for new, no core. That, btw, is the new kit price which includes the required injector tubes since they no longer sell the injectors without the tubes.
(11-19-2023 )JimT Wrote: [ -> ]Question, what's the stance on reman injectors directly from Cummins? If I remember correctly they recently quoted me about $1600 for remans + core charge or just over $2100 for new, no core. That, btw, is the new kit price which includes the required injector tubes since they no longer sell the injectors without the tubes.

OEM certified remans are ok. At least bosch sets/calcs the new injector fuel codes, etc. properly when they do them.
Happy Thanksgiving!!

Solved!! But…

Found out that the cylinder 5 was heavy leaking ! (Isolated the back 3 cylinders then each one, )

“it is fairly rare for someone to get to this point and still not find it” — I was confused because I did the cutout test on this cylinder - and it was ok!! (Not big difference between the others) also the overall Injector return flow test was in the specs!

Retorqued all the Tubes for the injectors.
(The pressure relief valve was replaced previously .)
I replaced the guts like you told me. (Thanks)

But … inserted a camera into the chamber and found that mark on the top of the liner..
[attachment=9200]
I was running this truck around 100k miles with this leaking injector (no codes), do I have to remove the oil pan and check the rod bearings? (the oil analyse were ok - just some extra silicone )
- could you guys tell me how bad is that and what to expect…?
Thank you in advance.
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