Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Printable Version +- Rawze.com: Rawze's ISX Technical Discussion and more (http://rawze.com/forums) +-- Forum: Big Truck Technical Discussion... (/forumdisplay.php?fid=1) +--- Forum: ISX Related Help (/forumdisplay.php?fid=68) +--- Thread: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. (/showthread.php?tid=5308) |
RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Pd6cas2 - 11-15-2019 (11-14-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote: Pd6cas2, We may be talking about the same thing but just to be clearYou are correct on both statements, yes there’s a screen filter ‘wire mesh filter inside that unit where the pink arrow is pointing. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Techmech - 11-15-2019 Just like Chamberpain said, you can just unbolt it and move it out of the way just enough to get the bolt out and the thermostat housing. No worries . It may look complicated the first time around like most things RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Rawze - 11-15-2019 (11-14-2019 )Evotrucker Wrote: So i was going to change the themorstate today but until i realized how much more work there is... lol i saw that the ac compressor is blocking one of the long bolts to the thermostat housing... would i have to take all the belts of and the ac compressor to be able to take of the housing? or can i just pull the ac compressor of a little bit? cuz i would really hate to recharge the system right after i already did it. I have helped many people do them. It is very easy to remove thermostat. You do need to remove A/C belt and unbolt, but do not have to break any A/C lines free, or loose refrigerant. I find it is helpful to place a short piece of 2x4 on top of the alternator to rest the A/C compressor onto while it is loose. It gives enough room to slide it around and get to the one bolt behind it. The most difficult part of the thermostat is that brass ring in the bottom of the housing. It needs to be replaced too... ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=2627&pid=22553#pid22553 RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Evotrucker - 11-15-2019 (11-15-2019 )Rawze Wrote:(11-14-2019 )Evotrucker Wrote: So i was going to change the themorstate today but until i realized how much more work there is... lol i saw that the ac compressor is blocking one of the long bolts to the thermostat housing... would i have to take all the belts of and the ac compressor to be able to take of the housing? or can i just pull the ac compressor of a little bit? cuz i would really hate to recharge the system right after i already did it. I'm waiting on a price quote for this thermo seal driver mandrel 3824716 from trp. I'm afraid if i use a socket to tap it in, i will some how damage the damn seal. the last time i did this, i fucked it up and had to go buy another seal. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - hhow55 - 11-15-2019 I went to my local hardware store and got a socket nearly the size of the seal, and tapped it in with no problems. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Evotrucker - 11-15-2019 Its a $120 seal driver from cummins.... yikes!... if i was a shop id get it but not for a one time use hopefully. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Evotrucker - 11-15-2019 (11-15-2019 )hhow55 Wrote: I went to my local hardware store and got a socket nearly the size of the seal, and tapped it in with no problems. I'm just going to hit up harbor freight and see if i can get a socket that size. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Signature620 - 11-15-2019 Use the cm570 thermostat seal. They are P/N 3084879. They are made of stainless instead of brass and don't break like the other ones do. RE: Leaking diaphragm... AGAIN. - Evotrucker - 11-15-2019 (11-15-2019 )Signature620 Wrote: Use the cm570 thermostat seal. They are P/N 3084879. They are made of stainless instead of brass and don't break like the other ones do. I wish i knew that earlier but for now im going to go with the one i got. I appreciate the input and im going to save this screen shot for future reference. |