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+--- Thread: Valvoline Premium Blue (/showthread.php?tid=5825)
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Valvoline Premium Blue - East Coast ISX - 02-13-2020
Hey everyone, just wanted to get some review and or personal insight on this Oil, I buddy of mijes that works at KW here in NJ recommend it, Anyone here using or used it ??
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RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - Rawze - 02-14-2020
here is the official recommendation from the red engine maker for the ISX. Some of those on that list, i would not use myself, have seen people have more wear on some than others
https://quickserve.cummins.com/qs3/qsol/service/serviceproducts/oil_registration_20092.html
The stuff you are referring to ...
a person can use it, no problem. I think though that it has a slightly shorter lifespan than some other brands, may require oil replacement more often than some of the brands that have better separation and/or TBN loss preventatives.
Just because the engine maker endorses it, does not mean it is the beast thing out there. - That is somewhat mis-leading in my book.
Does not matter to me what the engine maker says (within a certain bounds) as much as application and use would dictate. Only way to know for sure if what you are doing is working well for you is to do some oil sampling. watch for iron levels vs. mileage on oil, and see what the results are after a few oil changes.
Personally, I don't think any of those oils are nearly as good as the pre-epa oils that allowed more zddp up around 1440 ppm (optimum) and the like. - A lot of these newer oils are recommended, zddp and other additives have been stripped out of them, not based as much on wear as they are based on emissions too any more, and this mis-leads the public.
(not implying this towards anyone, I just see this with some people, putting it here for reference on those people who might be like this )...
LASTLY: I HAVE NO IDEA WHY!!--- some People are so hell-bent on finding that perfect brand of oil, and do all kinds of looking on the internet and discussing to death, what brand, and spending all kinds of money and wasting time, focusing heavily on what brand of oil to use. etc.... -- yet they let the rest of the engine and its systems go to s$it around them.
BECAUSE!!!!-- I HAVE YET TO SEE AN ENGINE where the oil was replaced at the correct intervals recommended based on fuel mileage, etc... and a component fail because of the brand of oil they used (as long as it is any one of the top brands).. The engine never makes it that far, as it is always a non-lubricated component that inevitably causes the head to come off it and it get inframed. (valve seats or injector cups, etc. in head wears out, liner drops, etc.).
OF THE lubricated components that I do see fail,.. It is almost ALWAYS because the engine got sooted up and carbon packed real bad, cross-channels got clogged up, etc. ...
for one or more reasons of...
* They Did not change oil often enough, because they did not base it on fuel mileage, etc.. and tried to 'save money', stretching out their oil changes, engine always soot-packed.
* -- AND/OR they let the engine get packed up with carbon and soot because they did not keep after the emissions and egr system properly, do regular maint. and egr-tune-ups, etc. - they let sensors read incorrectly, let the dpf stay half-way clogged up all the time, making excess soot and back-pressure in the engine and turbo, then did nothing but complain against their own lack of knowledge. These types of people also will quite often complain that their oil pressure falls off after (usually) 10-15k miles, and think they can drive it around like this in a blind mirrage of idiocy instead of FIXING THE GODDAMN ENGINE PROBLEMS!
* AND/OR some moron went way overboard and used synthetic oil in their engine thinking it will cause less wear (victim of brainwashed marketing at its best), just because it has that magic word 'synthetic' (or 'expensive') on the side of the bottle ... but the fact is that the opposite always happens in the ISX. Trouble is that people believe that the additive package is somehow vastly superior on synthetic oils... I hate to break it to them,.. BUT IT IS ALMOST ALWAYS NOT! .. and because they spend 2 or 3 times more money like a fool on the oil alone... they then -- you guessed it ... only change their oil 20k+ or god forbid, even longer intervals, some of them use bypass filter and try to justify it falsely,.. and destroy their overhead cams repeatedly, then blame the ISX as having cam issues instead of looking in the mirror.
* AND/OR -- Some fool puts thinner oil in it thinking they can save a few tenths fuel mileage and everything wears faster as a result.
* AND ESPECIALLY-- If they do not adjust the valves often enough. THIS ALONE is another one right at the top of the list. The valves should be re-adjusted every 250k miles maximum, I don't care what the red engine maker says. if not, the rollers start riding the cam all the time and it eats itself to death.
* OR LASTLY--- THEY put in a bottle (sometimes 2) of that over-priced 110-grade $35+dollar a gallon way-over-priced oil in the white bottle that is market everywhere (PUKAS) THAT HAS ZERO ANTI-WEAR ADDITIVES IN IT and only serves to thin out your oils (alrady weak these days due to epa regulations) additive package by another 12% when they pour it in. - Raising viscosity on the ISX is actually helpful long term,.. but there are some far better products that can get it there.
that is my own experiences anyways.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - smorgan87 - 02-14-2020
I recently swapped to Delo Syn Blend 15/40. Buy it at walmart for 12 or 13 bucks a gallon. Its cheaper than i used to buy Citgo brand for and far cheaper than than that there shell rotella. I havent done an analysis yet but it shows very little psi drop between changes.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - Lonestar10 - 02-14-2020
I run Rotella 15/40 and would run it even if it went up 5-10 bucks a gallon as ive ran it in every diesel ive ever owned and i have yet to have an oil related issue while using it. and im sure others have had this with other oils but its what ive used to me its tested and true. everything comes down to doing correct maintenance and not being an asshole to your engine by missing maintenance intervals or ripping it up full throttle on every stop light. and i beleive Rotella has some of the higher zddp type numbers in oil tests which is also what i look for in my racing oil that i use in my 67 fairlane to protect the cam.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - smorgan87 - 02-15-2020
(02-14-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote: I run Rotella 15/40 and would run it even if it went up 5-10 bucks a gallon as ive ran it in every diesel ive ever owned and i have yet to have an oil related issue while using it. and im sure others have had this with other oils but its what ive used to me its tested and true. everything comes down to doing correct maintenance and not being an asshole to your engine by missing maintenance intervals or ripping it up full throttle on every stop light. and i beleive Rotella has some of the higher zddp type numbers in oil tests which is also what i look for in my racing oil that i use in my 67 fairlane to protect the cam.
Ive heard of quite a few folks running rotella in their sport bike engines for its additive pack.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - Signature620 - 02-15-2020
As far as I can see - Any name branded oil that meets the manufacturers specification that your engine doesnt burn is perfectly fine. As stated by others here - You will really and truly struggle to find any legitimate case where a significant increase in wear or a component failure was caused by an oil brand. It is always a matter of manufacturing defects, abuse, usual wear or lack of maintenance.
For an ISX, use whichever CJ4 oil you can easily obtain for a reasonable price.
I put Premium Blue 8600 in most of my customer's trucks because many request it and I get it at a fantastic discount.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - East Coast ISX - 02-15-2020
(02-15-2020 )Signature620 Wrote: As far as I can see - Any name branded oil that meets the manufacturers specification that your engine doesnt burn is perfectly fine. As stated by others here - You will really and truly struggle to find any legitimate case where a significant increase in wear or a component failure was caused by an oil brand. It is always a matter of manufacturing defects, abuse, usual wear or lack of maintenance.
For an ISX, use whichever CJ4 oil you can easily obtain for a reasonable price.
I put Premium Blue 8600 in most of my customer's trucks because many request it and I get it at a fantastic discount.
Since you have personally dealt with this brand of oil , whats your opinion /review on it ??
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - Signature620 - 02-15-2020
I use 8600, not 8600ES. I have never had a problem with it(or any other oil). Most people who say their engine burns Valvoline oil have carbon packed pistons & polished bores.
RE: Valvoline Premium Blue - schISM - 02-16-2020
Just figured I’d share some info regarding different brands/types of oils. I pulled a sample at roughly 30k miles on my new truck. I changed the factory fill 10w30 with Amsoil 0W40 synthetic and pushed the drain interval to 20k, as you can see the the sample wasn’t so great, low TBN #’s lead me to believe it’s not worth the money. My second sample was good ‘ole Chevron 15W40 dino oil and not only was it a third of the price of Amsoil it performed better in retaining TBN numbers. The most recent sample was my normal cold weather oil(I only run synthetic in the cold months) Mobil 1 0W40. Expensive but still cheaper than Amsoil and if you look at TBN #’s it flat out spanks the other two brands and would be a very good oil for those who push longer drain intervals. The Mobil one isn’t recommended for newer trucks with all the emissions in place as it’s only rated SN not CK4 but I’ll risk it. No mandate, no problem though.