Spindle wear?

[bwake]

(01-15-2020 )Mattman Wrote:  Used the BBQ grill, I like it.

How did you set the bearing preload on new bearings?

The style he has does not need the preload set. It's done with the center cone that fits between the two bearings. This cone should be checked for proper dimensions (length) before reinstalling (especially if it was run loose), if all is right it will set the end play to proper settings with correct torque. This style will have the nut torqued to 300-350 lbs and not backed off.

[Mattman]

He has different bearings and different races than what came with the hub originally.

Don't think you can use the spacer, but with the original bearings as all the pieces are a matched set??

[Rawze]

download the manual for that axle.
get the right bearings.
follow proper procedures.

[Andre_The_Giant]

The Timken bearings I purchased are part numbers ”set430TRB”s and ”set429TRB”s.. they are bearing and race sets, the 430 is the bigger inner one. I also purchased a new seal and new spacer set Paccar Number “(p) CM10081520. How do I know if the new bearings use spacers or not?

[Andre_The_Giant]

I was able to cross reference part numbers with the paper that came with the spacer kit. Everything looks good to use them!! It also felt really nice when spinning the Hub after the proper installation procedure was followed.. I wasn’t able to get a reading with my dial indicator, but the paperwork said thats normal because the tolerances are very precise?

   

[bwake]

The kits that you have marked beside both show to come with the spacer. This is a cone looking piece that is about 6" long and is place inside the hub after the first bearing/hub assembly goes on, followed by the outside bearing, nuts etc. This cone is what sets the end play to a very specific tolerance and won't show a reading with the dial indicator. It's almost .000 to +.001 end play.
1. Lubed bearing into the hub
2. Wheel seal installed into the hub
3. Hub assembly placed onto the spindle
4. Center cone slid into hub over spindle
5. Outer lubed bearing placed over spindle
6. Washers (if any), and nut screwed onto spindle. Torqued to specs and not backed off. 250-300 ft lbs if I recall correctly {check axle manufacturers maint. manual to be sure}.
7. Fill hub with gear oil through filler plug if available. If not, jack up the other side of the axle to force gear oil into repair side hub cavity.

[Mattman]

Does the spacer act as a crush sleeve?

Seems to me it would be very easy for the desired clearance to be to great or to tight.
When the hub is a new assembly all parts are matched to get that desired amount of clearance.

I could be wrong but when you start putting different bearings and races and spacer tube just a small amount of variance compared to what the original internals had could make for a large difference.

[Rawze]

(01-16-2020 )Mattman Wrote:  Does the spacer act as a crush sleeve?

Seems to me it would be very easy for the desired clearance to be to great or to tight.
When the hub is a new assembly all parts are matched to get that desired amount of clearance.

I could be wrong but when you start putting different bearings and races and spacer tube just a small amount of variance compared to what the original internals had could make for a large difference.

I always buy a matched set of bearings and sleeves for mine. They are avail. as a set for some axles.