CM871 oil pump pickup tube screen

[Chamberpains]

I dropped the oil pan to replace the gasket, throw some dimes in the pump and inspect things, low and behold the screen to the pickup tube was laying in the bottom of the pan. What is the general consensus of what to do. Replace the pickup tube? Weld the screen back in place? Something else? Is a new one upgraded somehow that it won't break loose? I see its the screen material that breaks not the tack welds themselves.

   
   

[tree98]

Im thinking just mig it back on.

[Waterloo]

Tack it back on, or use {rest of post removed}... ;-)

I bet a new tube runs close to a grand...

[Signature620]

The pickups are only just over $300 in Aus so they shouldn't be too bad in the US.

Definately try welding it back on first though.

[Chamberpains]

I spot welded it back in place. I've added pictures. I decided to take the pick up tube off my cm870 and I added some tack welds to it too. If you do this, come in directly from the side and tack it at the joint where the tube and the screen meet. If you come in from the top of the screen you risk burning a bigger hole in the screen. I had the tube off the truck when welding it also.
   
   


Im also swapping oil pans from my old cm870 to the newer cm871. The oil pan on the 870 is updated and comes with multiple drains including the upper (rear) plug. So while I'm at it, they both got corrasealed and por15. Wow do they rust bad. This well worth doing im sure.

The one on the left is the updated pan with all the plugs. There is always about a quart or 2 of oil in that upper (rear) plug when im changing oil.
   

Also when I put dimes in the oil pump I ran across a great conversion here on the forum of what to do and what not to do and what happens if you screw up. This is the start of the conversation http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid25554
This is where Unilevers clarifies what to do if your doing it with the pump still on the truck. http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid25634
Its worth the read of the OP whole conversation he went through hell with that truck.
Also I replaced the cotter pin holding the regulator plunger in. I noticed if you don't take the time to bend the cotter pin till it touches the pump and doesnt spin in its hole it could possibly vibrate and spin until it cuts the pin. Then you're in for a world of crap if it all comes apart. If I were anyone doing this I'd make sure its secured.
   
   

I threw 6 dimes in. My before oil pressure hot
with a gallon of 80/90 gear oil was 17.5 at idle and 35.5-36.5 going down the road and bumped up to 1000 rpm it was 25ish. I'll update after I get it all back together.

[Chamberpains]

Finally got it all back together. I replaced the EGR cooler because it puked coolant (yes, demandated but im keeping up appearances with this one) I may actually take a venture to this foreign country called California with this truck.... Maybe....

I replaced the very old 140 amp alternator with a leece neville 220 amp and that made a world of difference for the blower motors in the truck. They went from an old man farting when on high to actually blowing and moving air around the cab. Definitely something guys should look at if their electronics are feeling a bit weak.

I replaced the power steering pump and Gear Box (Sheppard) wow, I think I finally found out what fixes the "Kenworth pop" in the front end if its not the shackle pins or loose ubolts. You have to reset and properly adjust the steering gear box. Follow proper install instructions for the gear box manufacturer. Sheppards was basically push/tap the poppit valve back in with a punch. Jack the truck up and turn the steering fully left and right a few times. If you don't, the frame binds and causes all kind of weird spots to pop and crack.

I also had Mommaburt do some fine tuning on the ECM. She boosts and runs fine now. These cm871's are a hair different than my cm870. The jakes don't use nearly as high boost. The fuel pedal is way touchier which makes driving across rough parking lots interesting to say the least. Fuel mileage is already solidly in the 7's without trying or working very hard at it. It starts way smoother and idles a lot nicer too. The damn air compressor is silent and doesn't knock. We'll see how long that lasts.... over all so far I'm glad I decided to upgrade.

Now, after putting 6 dimes in the oil pump my numbers have gone perfectly where I wanted them. Cold idle 700 rpm im at 25 psi, 1000 rpm's straight to 35 psi and going down the road 45-50 psi. Once warmed up fully and even hot with oil temp at 225° idle is solidly at 18-20 psi, 1000 rpm is 32 psi and going down the road is 39-42 psi. The jake brakes got a hair more responsive too. Just faster reacting. Not harder hitting.

Hopefully I've got this thing up to par and can make a dollar or 3 with it now.

[Waterloo]

Sounds good, it is nice when everything comes together.