Dash switches illumination

[tree98]

(06-20-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  I carry a gallon ziplock bag full of fuses, they always need to be replaced. They rarely blow, and I mean rarely... But they sure like to fail. I buy bulk, much cheaper.

Ha ha ha...... a gallon of fuses!! That made me laugh.

[DVT873]

(06-20-2019 )Satch Wrote:  I ohm's every breaker. They check out good.
I replaced breakers with fuses. Ohmd out good. The key switch fuse read higher than the others and regardless whether key was in or not. I'm thinking it's module related. Every once in awhile they blink on then off.

If the fuses do not fix it try unplugging all the connectors that go up the steering column. I think there are 2. Actually only 1 of them needs unplugged but I don't remember for sure which one. The single row 10 pin one should be it. All those back lights, actually LED's, are fed from the gauge cluster. A "virtual" fuse is in the cluster that works as a circuit breaker. This is not shown anywhere in SI. Pricey lesson. On the one I had the clock spring was bad at the steering wheel. It was shorting ONLY the light circuit. Everything else worked fine, cruise, horns etc. If I recall this does not code in DLB. If that does not do it start unplugging modules that have non working backlights. Something is shorting. I think the key has to cycle to reset. BTW does it make any difference headlight on or off? The switched on headlights, not DRL.

[Satch]

(06-20-2019 )DVT873 Wrote:  

(06-20-2019 )Satch Wrote:  I ohm's every breaker. They check out good.
I replaced breakers with fuses. Ohmd out good. The key switch fuse read higher than the others and regardless whether key was in or not. I'm thinking it's module related. Every once in awhile they blink on then off.

If the fuses do not fix it try unplugging all the connectors that go up the steering column. I think there are 2. Actually only 1 of them needs unplugged but I don't remember for sure which one. The single row 10 pin one should be it. All those back lights, actually LED's, are fed from the gauge cluster. A "virtual" fuse is in the cluster that works as a circuit breaker. This is not shown anywhere in SI. Pricey lesson. On the one I had the clock spring was bad at the steering wheel. It was shorting ONLY the light circuit. Everything else worked fine, cruise, horns etc. If I recall this does not code in DLB. If that does not do it start unplugging modules that have non working backlights. Something is shorting. I think the key has to cycle to reset. BTW does it make any difference headlight on or off? The switched on headlights, not DRL.

I'll do that. The truck has DRL. As soon as I go into drive, it cuts that power to those switches. Im currently letting it reset via battery disconnect. I'll see how long they stay on after the reset. In the past as so as I start to move, they will go off. This is my first reset since changing out the tarnished fuses.

[Satch]

(06-20-2019 )DVT873 Wrote:  

(06-20-2019 )Satch Wrote:  I ohm's every breaker. They check out good.
I replaced breakers with fuses. Ohmd out good. The key switch fuse read higher than the others and regardless whether key was in or not. I'm thinking it's module related. Every once in awhile they blink on then off.

If the fuses do not fix it try unplugging all the connectors that go up the steering column. I think there are 2. Actually only 1 of them needs unplugged but I don't remember for sure which one. The single row 10 pin one should be it. All those back lights, actually LED's, are fed from the gauge cluster. A "virtual" fuse is in the cluster that works as a circuit breaker. This is not shown anywhere in SI. Pricey lesson. On the one I had the clock spring was bad at the steering wheel. It was shorting ONLY the light circuit. Everything else worked fine, cruise, horns etc. If I recall this does not code in DLB. If that does not do it start unplugging modules that have non working backlights. Something is shorting. I think the key has to cycle to reset. BTW does it make any difference headlight on or off? The switched on headlights, not DRL.

Are you referring to the connectors at the body control module to unplug? Or connectors behind the cluster?

[DVT873]

The connectors at the bottom of the steering column. That will get the clock spring out of the circuit. IF the clock spring is the problem. It is a simple and guick check. Then Try turning the headlights on before going into drive. . " As soon as I go into drive" is this some type of auto shift?

[Satch]

(06-21-2019 )DVT873 Wrote:  The connectors at the bottom of the steering column. That will get the clock spring out of the circuit. IF the clock spring is the problem. It is a simple and guick check. Then Try turning the headlights on before going into drive. . " As soon as I go into drive" is this some type of auto shift?

I'll check those out.
Yes it's an automated Eaton

[Satch]

***SOLVED***

I unscrewed the cover under the steering wheel to expose the clock spring plug. Unplugged and reinserted. All good now. Between that and the tarnished fuses, I'd say it's resolved.

Thanks Rawze, smorgan87, and DVT873.

That was driving me nuts!

[Satch]

(06-21-2019 )Satch Wrote:  ***SOLVED***

I unscrewed the cover under the steering wheel to expose the clock spring plug. Unplugged and reinserted. All good now. Between that and the tarnished fuses, I'd say it's resolved.

Thanks Rawze, smorgan87, and DVT873.

That was driving me nuts!

Well the above wasn't entirely the correct repair. The correct repair is actually in the wiring to clock spring. The wires were grounding out onto the steering wheel. I believe the hole isn't big enough. I wasn't able to remove steering wheel, but I did doctor up the wires. Its Been good for a while now. I thought an update may be useful for somebody. Just pop off the horn button, disconnect horn, and inspect clock spring wires