CM871 400HP Dyno sheet

[smorgan87]

Im gonna throw in my .02. Im a firat time owner. The most i could get financed was 30ish. I bought a 660k mile prostar what appears to be a idealease turn in. Very little blow by according to their techs. Everything was original. I bought it tagged it insired it and started regretting it. 1 week in i put it in the shop for power problems and jakes. no power under 1300 had to spin it to the moon and back to pull something they said algae and changed the switch module for the jakes charged me 1500$ (it didnt fix it but what do they care they made 1500$) Well a few months, 300$ in fuel filters and biocide and a demandate later its at 6mpg (up from 3-4mpg) a little less of a turd but not what i know it should be. Ive already done an overhead to quiet them valves which then made the miss a bit more noticeable. I also have been made aware of the throwout bearing thats bad and shaking the clutch pedal to death. On top of powertrain issues the air compressor it puking oil everywhere as well as the steering gear box spraying ps fluid out the top seal. Today i done a turbo inspection to discover the vg ring is stuck. So to sum this up. My 30k $ truck need an injector, a clutch, a turbo, an air compressor, a power steering pump and gear box, shocks all around and those nice recaps they threw in are blowing every other damn week. The asshat that tells you to buy a older higher mileage truck to be successful has never owned a truck and truly should go f himself.

[Vjex]

(06-03-2017 )Rawze Wrote:  

(06-02-2017 )Vjex Wrote:  ...


I cannot afford a decent truck right now, so my plan is to find one with some life left in it, do a complete egr tune-up and after 2 years or so (if lucky) to have it overhauled and de-mandated. With that much of blowby starting with, can it be reduced and somewhat controlled without having to tear up the engine?

Thanks in advance!

I hear that story over and over and over and over --- IT NEVER WORKS OUT!!!!!

You can't expect to buy something that is at the end of its service life and "wish it" a new one!. Expect to inframe it soon,.. very soon after buying it and if you can't afford that -0-- GO FINANCE SOMETHING NEWER!!!


You Don't buy a "FIXER-UPPER" truck (or house or boat or even a lawn-mower) if you can't afford to "FIX IT UP!". =-- Bad business decision!!!

Get your personal finances in order FIRST -- Tell the old lady to stop spending all you damn money -- GO GET A COMPANY DRIVER JOB IF NEED BE AND SAVE SOME DOE!!!! --- Your going to need it.

I can't tell you how many people I have met who want to/or have just become truck owners that have their head in the clouds,.. when they should be focusing on putting their feet on solid ground instead. -- THEY ALWAYS LOOSE THAT GAME of buying something worn to the bone in the "hopes" of not having any problems for a couple years,.. -- IT NEVER WORKS OUT -- and to top it off --- THEIR FINANCIAL SITUATION DOES NOT IMPROVE ONE DAMN BIT -- because they are chasing problems and downtime the whole time they own the truck,.. then one day -- BOOM-- inframe time and they ain't got 2 cents to put towards it...;-- FIX YOUR FINANCIAL SITUATION!!!!! -- PRIORITY ABOVE ALL -- and if you can't do that --DON'T BOTHER OWNING A TRUCK!!!

Well, I see what you saying.... I shouldn't have wrote my plan, but my situation is not as bad as it seems. I've been an o/o for a while now, buying another truck for cash, will finance overhaul if needed.

All I'm asking is if blowby could be a bit reduced , or in your book 15" of blowby is automatic no-go! Truck had egr cooler, turbo and clutch replaced, dyno shows that most of the horses are still there.

Thanks

[Vjex]

(06-03-2017 )smorgan87 Wrote:  Im gonna throw in my .02. Im a firat time owner. The most i could get financed was 30ish. I bought a 660k mile prostar what appears to be a idealease turn in. Very little blow by according to their techs. Everything was original. I bought it tagged it insired it and started regretting it. 1 week in i put it in the shop for power problems and jakes. no power under 1300 had to spin it to the moon and back to pull something they said algae and changed the switch module for the jakes charged me 1500$ (it didnt fix it but what do they care they made 1500$) Well a few months, 300$ in fuel filters and biocide and a demandate later its at 6mpg (up from 3-4mpg) a little less of a turd but not what i know it should be. Ive already done an overhead to quiet them valves which then made the miss a bit more noticeable. I also have been made aware of the throwout bearing thats bad and shaking the clutch pedal to death. On top of powertrain issues the air compressor it puking oil everywhere as well as the steering gear box spraying ps fluid out the top seal. Today i done a turbo inspection to discover the vg ring is stuck. So to sum this up. My 30k $ truck need an injector, a clutch, a turbo, an air compressor, a power steering pump and gear box, shocks all around and those nice recaps they threw in are blowing every other damn week. The asshat that tells you to buy a older higher mileage truck to be successful has never owned a truck and truly should go f himself.

Thanks for sharing your experience, hopefully your truck will run great after all fixes are made.

[Hammerhead]

(06-04-2017 )Vjex Wrote:  Well, I see what you saying.... I shouldn't have wrote my plan, but my situation is not as bad as it seems. I've been an o/o for a while now, buying another truck for cash, will finance overhaul if needed.

All I'm asking is if blowby could be a bit reduced , or in your book 15" of blowby is automatic no-go! Truck had egr cooler, turbo and clutch replaced, dyno shows that most of the horses are still there.

Thanks

I wouldn't say this amount of blow by is a "no go", it's just an indicator.
The question is, where is the blow by coming from?
Have you pulled an oil sample? If it has coolant contamination, I'd call it a "No go" combo.
If there's no coolant contamination, then perhaps you've found a bit of a deal if it's as simple as valve guide seals. You could buy the tool and parts and fix this yourself for under $500 and a day or so of your time.
If it's a turbo seal, then it's a somewhat costly repair but not huge downtime and also something you may be able to do yourself.
If it's a broken ring, then it's reliability is questionable and that's a risk only you can assess for yourself.
If it's glazed cylinders then it needs an overhaul, but not today. You can run for quite a while on glazed cylinders, you will just burn oil, have blow by, poor power, and if the aftertreatment system is still in place, lots of issues with it.
Knowing the source helps the determination. If there is coolant contamination, then the blow by is probably the cough, not the virus.

[Vjex]

(06-04-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:  

(06-04-2017 )Vjex Wrote:  Well, I see what you saying.... I shouldn't have wrote my plan, but my situation is not as bad as it seems. I've been an o/o for a while now, buying another truck for cash, will finance overhaul if needed.

All I'm asking is if blowby could be a bit reduced , or in your book 15" of blowby is automatic no-go! Truck had egr cooler, turbo and clutch replaced, dyno shows that most of the horses are still there.

Thanks

I wouldn't say this amount of blow by is a "no go", it's just an indicator.
The question is, where is the blow by coming from?
Have you pulled an oil sample? If it has coolant contamination, I'd call it a "No go" combo.
If there's no coolant contamination, then perhaps you've found a bit of a deal if it's as simple as valve guide seals. You could buy the tool and parts and fix this yourself for under $500 and a day or so of your time.
If it's a turbo seal, then it's a somewhat costly repair but not huge downtime and also something you may be able to do yourself.
If it's a broken ring, then it's reliability is questionable and that's a risk only you can asses for yourself.
If it's glazed cylinders then it needs an overhaul, but not today. You can run for quite a while on glazed cylinders, you will just burn oil, have blow by, poor power, and if the aftertreatment system is still in place, lots of issues with it.
Knowing the source helps the determination. If there is coolant contamination, then the blow by is probably the cough, not the virus.

Great information, thanks a lot.
Oil is fresh in the truck, actually is overfilled a bit.( I hate when they overfill it, but it happens a lot) . If I pull an oil sample on brand new oil (lets say 100 miles), will it show even the smallest coolant contamination?

Much appreciated!

[Hammerhead]

(06-04-2017 )Vjex Wrote:  Great information, thanks a lot.
Oil is fresh in the truck, actually is overfilled a bit.( I hate when they overfill it, but it happens a lot) . If I pull an oil sample on brand new oil (lets say 100 miles), will it show even the smallest coolant contamination?

Much appreciated!

Possible, but very doubtful on fresh oil. If it does show coolant contamination on fresh oil the problem is severe! I would say you should have at least 5000miles on the oil to get any kind of decent reading, and 10k would be better. Anything less would be too unreliable IMHO. Oh and this is using a decent lab, not a Speedco special.
If I am looking at a used truck and it has fresh oil in it, I am immediately suspicious. What are they trying to hide?
When I sell a used truck, it has used oil in it, so a diligent purchaser can pull his own samples and know I'm not hiding anything. I've never had anyone do that thorough of an inspection!

[Vjex]

Quote:Possible, but very doubtful on fresh oil. If it does show coolant contamination on fresh oil the problem is severe! I would say you should have at least 5000miles on the oil to get any kind of decent reading, and 10k would be better. Anything less would be too unreliable IMHO. Oh and this is using a decent lab, not a Speedco special.
If I am looking at a used truck and it has fresh oil in it, I am immediately suspicious. What are they trying to hide?
When I sell a used truck, it has used oil in it, so a diligent purchaser can pull his own samples and know I'm not hiding anything. I've never had anyone do that thorough of an inspection!

Again, very useful information!
Well, someone mentioned that there is a million trucks available to buy. However, half of them a complete junk and the rest have all kind of problems hidden in them. Finding a decent high mileage truck with 10k mile oil in it will be hard, since sellers like to do fresh pm and call it "road worthy".
Thanks

[Hammerhead]

(06-05-2017 )Vjex Wrote:  Again, very useful information!
Well, someone mentioned that there is a million trucks available to buy. However, half of them a complete junk and the rest have all kind of problems hidden in them. Finding a decent high mileage truck with 10k mile oil in it will be hard, since sellers like to do fresh pm and call it "road worthy".
Thanks

Million mile engines with emission systems intact are a small percentage of units produced.
Most engines with emission systems demantaded have poor programming, making million mile engines in this category an even smaller percentage.
Engines with emission systems demandated properly are hard to find, because most of them are on this site and we are quite well aware of the advantage we have, and are not likely to get rid of good units just to start the process all over again.

I'm not telling you that they are impossible to find, I'm warning you that they are hard to find. So do your inspections of used trucks carefully and thouroghly. Rawze has an excellent guideline in his book about how to properly inspect a used truck you are considering, I recommend you click the link for his book, even if all you look at is the "truck inspection process" part of it. Look at several trucks, If your inspection does not reject at least one, you are too lenient.

TIP for anybody thinking of becoming an Owner/Operator
Think of this like high end professionals do. Highly intelligent people will deliberately apply for, and go to several job interviews before they go to the interview of the job they really want. They do this to brush up on their interview skills, making them as polished as possible, increasing their odds of success.
So if you've never inspected a truck for purchase before, go to a dealership and waste some salesmans time.
Thoroughly inspect a truck on the the lot, make your list, and don't talk to the salesman, let him talk to or watch you while you inspect a unit or two. Now a salesman is going to his damndest to sell you a truck, this is your interview, your job is to find something on that unit to reject its interest to you.
A tip for this, go inspect a truck you are NOT interested in so you don't get "talked into" buying something you don't want.
When you find that rejectable item, congrats you are polished up and ready to actually begin to look for a unit you want.

Proper planning is the First Step to success. Modern trucks are not like the pre-emissions units where any idiot can just wing it and make it. Nowadays you have to be a special vigilant idiot.

[Waterloo]

Spot on Hammer... And agree 100% on getting into this racket unless you have deep pockets and or proficient with a wrench and have the proper software. The days of changing the oil, grease and regular maintenence are Loooooooooooong GONE.

And if you know all of the above, why the HELL would you buy a truck unless this is all you know, which is my case.

Knowing what I know now, I would have went with a pre-emission Freightliner or Pete with a fresh Detroit and fixed the rest of the truck as I went along. But those trucks are getting harder to find, but they are out there... Just my .02