2010 Lonestar
05-18-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #10
RE: 2010 Lonestar
Saw axle shaft spline wear as Lonestar describes on a set of tandems back in the 80's except it was all four shafts. I was told by a gear guy it was an unbalanced flywheel. Turned out to be true. Getting the flywheel balance spec wasn't easy pre internet. Had it tested and it was way out of spec. Had it rebalanced. Never felt a thing and no complaints. That engine at that time had a Houdaille viscous damper as standard equipment. It was replaced also. Miles were maybe 80,000.
Rawze posts on here about the Cummins replacement recommendations for the the front damper. Maybe related? Just a guy lost in the archives.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze
05-18-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #11
RE: 2010 Lonestar
What is the procedure for the balancer? been thinking about replacing mine as i dont know if its ever been changed even after overhaul with 200k on it the balancer to me doesnt look newer.

Whats the pricetag?
Can it be done with radiator installed?
and is there only 1 bolt pattern it can install as to prevent timing mark mismatch or a keyway?

my guess

Pull belt
take bolts loose remove pulley
extract balancer
reinstall new balancer and reverse removal?

pretty sure if radiator stays in i can do it myself.


User's Signature: 2010 Lonestar - CM871 - 13sp - 3.70s, 2016 T680 - cm2350 - 13sp - 3.36s - skateboarder
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #12
RE: 2010 Lonestar
Cummins quickserv is your friend on that. The procedure is there in detail. 500,000 mile replacement intervals. As far as access, that depends on your truck. If you can reach in with the front end still in place then get at it. Most can. There is a pin to insure correct placement. But be prepared, Rawze got one of the few that required 4 monkeys and a team of mules to pull it. Maybe he'll post a link to that one for a little schadenfreude at his expense.
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 Thanks given by: Waterloo , fargonaz
05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #13
RE: 2010 Lonestar
(05-18-2019 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  What is the procedure for the balancer? been thinking about replacing mine as i dont know if its ever been changed even after overhaul with 200k on it the balancer to me doesnt look newer.

Whats the pricetag?
Can it be done with radiator installed?
and is there only 1 bolt pattern it can install as to prevent timing mark mismatch or a keyway?

my guess

Pull belt
take bolts loose remove pulley
extract balancer
reinstall new balancer and reverse removal?

pretty sure if radiator stays in i can do it myself.

I ran mine up to Cummins, dead of that Arctic cold winter a few years ago. I dropped it off at 1700 and picked it up the next morning at 0900. The OEM damper was $635 + 2 hours labor. I got out for under a grand. The damper needs to be painted if you want the warranty. As Chamberpains stated, replacement is suggested at 500,000 miles.

My radiator stayed in my ProStar, everything will depend on how easy it is to get off... Again, like CP stated, it took a team of mules and explosives for Rawze to remove his. I know on mine, if I was to replace today, about 2-3 hours should do it. I would run the truck up on a pair of ramps to make it easier to get to, and for a breaker bar if need be or for an extension on a rattle gun if it came to that.

One thing, I would purchase the damper and get some paint on it, along with marking the timing positions so that they hopefully stay viewable and rust free. Use the expensive Cummins red paint, and use several coats, I would let dry for two to three days before installing. Maybe some professional clear coat too. I hate trying to sand paper or steel wool that thing to find those timing marks.
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #14
RE: 2010 Lonestar
Is the dampener have it stamped into the metal the timing markings? Would the Cummings paint cover the timing Marks up?


User's Signature: Also known as Shotgun
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #15
RE: 2010 Lonestar
They are stamped into the metal, but if not painted or the paint wears off, they can be a real PIA to find as the rust and road gunk can really cover them up. If you paint it, and do a few coats along with marking the timing marks in a contrasting color, like white paint, a little 409 and a rag is all that is needed in the worst case scenario.

And, to keep the warranty intact, the damper must be painted at time of install.
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #16
RE: 2010 Lonestar
Cool, I haven't heard of 409.
That is on my to do list some point.


User's Signature: Also known as Shotgun
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #17
RE: 2010 Lonestar
409? Walmart sells it in the household cleaner section, your mom probably has some under the kitchen sink.
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05-19-2019, (Subject: 2010 Lonestar ) 
Post: #18
RE: 2010 Lonestar
(05-19-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote:  ...
Rawze got one of the few that required 4 monkeys and a team of mules to pull it. Maybe he'll post a link to that one for a little schadenfreude at his expense.

Maybe the mating was not painted or coated on my particular one when installed? maybe it was raining in the building the day it went onto the shaft at the factory ? -- LoL, Who knows.


I still have not seen one that bad but for the curious, here is that post...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...628#pid628


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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