CM2350 bad delete

[jwt41]

It was inframed about 300,000 ago under warranty have 3.36 18 over. I do all my own rebuilds and know the mechanics part but know little to nothing on the electronics part.

[jwt41]

not using any coolant what so ever

[Rawze]

(11-21-2019 )jwt41 Wrote:  I'm just looking for it to run properly 600 but want it to be reliable. the boost varies sometimes 30 in elevation 42 at sea level.

You want it to last, and be somewhat decent engine w decent fuel millage for the set power level again? ...

* Original manifold/VGT back on it. Nothing is going to beat this for efficiency/response, etc. within that power range.

* original factory, up-to-date file for the engine put back in. Truck run for 10 minutes so that it can re-build all the proper data again inside the ram memory with the proper factory file back in it. - DPF alarms, etc. are ok to have during this 10 minute run phase.

* A proper de-mandate overlay applied to the correct program that belongs in, and matches the whole truck, after it has been run for 10 minutes (assuming for a moment u live in a country where that stuff is legal to do).

* Power adjusted to the file that belongs in that engine/truck, so that everything matches instead of using a different factory file. Setting it to 600HP the proper way, using the proper methods with the proper file that belongs to that truck and engine if that is your goal. My recommendation, leave the torque at 1850 though. It is added torque that shortens engine life far more than HP level ever does.

* Turbocharger VGT re-programming / adjusted to match any changes made to the exhaust flow/ system so that it runs with the correct response/boost levels for the engine, power level, and truck.

* Better driving habits, where you keep it in the 1650 rpm range (1500 - 1800 rqange) whenever you need any kind of power or boost above 20 psi or so. Work towards getting the truck re-geared to something decent, so the engine does not have to work so damn hard against those terrible ratios it has when your heavy. Its clearly geared too tall, was geared for moron company driver fleet spec garbage. Help you stop lugging it under power below 1500, and help with making actual usable power instead of trying to climb every hill at high torque.

* Pray like hell that no damage has set in too badly, showing its ugly head in the near future. Things like fuel impingement, cracks in piston coatings that eventually burn hole in piston due to that excess boost, crack starting in head between valve seats, liner fretting that get worse, eventually causing head gasket failure, piston through the side of the block without warning because of excess detonation in its past, weakening of the brass wrist pin bushings (2350's are bad for this with bad programming), etc.etc.etc.

During the inframe, were the counter-bores re-cut? - and did anyone raise liners to a more proper height of 0.014"? instead of the terrible factory 0.010"?

[jwt41]

counter bores were cut but just cummins specs. Need help with getting ecm right. vgt is still on it will just take compound off to lower the boost pressure.

[Rawze]

Spoke with him on the phone... He has this horrible work done at a well known place for destroying engines with big advertisements, bunch of false promises, and fancy web-site out in Colorado.

He was describing to me them trying about 5 or 6 programs, copied from other trucks with it on a dyno, scratching their heads, and trying "different files, cpl#'s and the like",spouting off things like "well it worked for this other truck, lets try this one"... etc.. and I just kept getting sicker and sicker to my stomach at how stupid these people must really be.

he said turbo goes immediately to 70+% position after engine start (a sign that it is clearly stuck in wrong engine mode) and moves backwards in position as you get on the throttle because of excess exhaust pressures.

[smorgan87]

Dunno wheres about u live but without having software to fix the donkey show goat ropin thats been done to ur truck i think you would be best served cruising down to Mr Haggs shop in Griffin to let him work his magic and go thru it to find out how much damage has already been done. U need that chop shoppery horse shi#t fixed yesterday.

[Lonestar10]

could you imagin if hagg or uni or rawze had a dino when you go to see them...every truck would come out with a spot on per truck tune

[Magard]

I’m coming in late here. I’m just curious if this is the Saint Jorge Utah crap. Also if the engine hasn’t had the liners done right set to .014. Then have your tuner lower the torque curve below 1400 rpm. That way it will be trying to help It’s self live. Run it to 1800rpm then shift. You will come back to 1500rpm for next gear with 18spd. Big torque down low is terrible bad. You have to major concerns with that engine and power. Liner height and did they let the head gasket settle for 24 hrs. before they did final torque on the head. Also was the head replaced with a NEW head not a rebuilt head. Another big concern there. After all this sorted out. Get your fuel pump rebuilt before it’s all game over anyway.

Some words of encouragement. At least your here now and all these guys have your best interests in mind. Know one here is looking for the next victim, like where you’ve been.

[Unilevers]

ahh another utah customer, ive been seeing a few of these lately.

honest opinion as i have fixed about 5 of them now - you cant make it work with the compound. the 2350 has too much compression and compounds just make too much boost to survive on a isx. Yes the 451 vgt is cutting it close at 600/2050, its doable but warm anything past that.

Take the shitty utah setup off it, run your stock vgt. tune it for 500/1850 maybe 600/1850 with proper programming and drive it like a decent person. Honestly any programmer worth their salt is going to run far away from that thing as it most likely is 90% screwed and you just dont know it yet and they dont want to be left holding the bag.

im crazy though!! pm me and ill sort it out programming wise but you gotta sort the physical wise.