Many questions

[Brock]

My prostar did that, would rock the whole truck side to side and sounded like my old cammed mustang...... it was a bad injector cam.

For the leak, do you have a boost guage? Any boost loss? Check that egr crossover tube that runs from the egr cooler behind the motor, it's just a rubber style hose that likes to blow out.

[hhow55]

If i idle over night, then take off the next morning, it smokes a whole bunch of white smoke until i get up to speed, then it goes away.

You are likely, having unburned fuel that has collected in the exhaust muffler being burned off.

[Lonestar10]

check the pipe that wraps around the back of the motor it has a short rubber boot that could have blown out happened to me last summer. have to buy the whole pipe peice with boot attached to fix. easiest way to see it will most likely be pull up the flooring and take the plate the shifter comes through out of the floor should be just held in by buncha bolts and some sealer. you should then easily be able to see the back of the motor where the pipe runs accross just above the trans bell houseing.

also check where the pipe comes off the EGR valve its held on by 2 bolts thjis can rust out and the pipe seperates from the flange.

the white smoke is because of exhaust leaks and the truck is trying to regen or raw fuel is being spit out of the cylinders while idling and burns off when under load. or 3rd its throwing oil out of the cylinders or turbo and that is burning off after idling and under load.


Emissions trucks are not built to idle period idling will cause an emission motor to have many issues and most of them being a complete royal PIA to diagnose.

[TruckerRalph]

(04-17-2020 )Brock Wrote:  My prostar did that, would rock the whole truck side to side and sounded like my old cammed mustang...... it was a bad injector cam.

For the leak, do you have a boost guage? Any boost loss? Check that egr crossover tube that runs from the egr cooler behind the motor, it's just a rubber style hose that likes to blow out.

Injector cam? or Cam injector? I dont know about those. Is it maybe a stuck injector or something or have something to do with the cam shaft? But thats exactly what its doing. Rocking the truck side to side so to speak.

[TruckerRalph]

(04-17-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  check the pipe that wraps around the back of the motor it has a short rubber boot that could have blown out happened to me last summer. have to buy the whole pipe peice with boot attached to fix. easiest way to see it will most likely be pull up the flooring and take the plate the shifter comes through out of the floor should be just held in by buncha bolts and some sealer. you should then easily be able to see the back of the motor where the pipe runs accross just above the trans bell houseing.

also check where the pipe comes off the EGR valve its held on by 2 bolts thjis can rust out and the pipe seperates from the flange.

the white smoke is because of exhaust leaks and the truck is trying to regen or raw fuel is being spit out of the cylinders while idling and burns off when under load. or 3rd its throwing oil out of the cylinders or turbo and that is burning off after idling and under load.


Emissions trucks are not built to idle period idling will cause an emission motor to have many issues and most of them being a complete royal PIA to diagnose.

I've watched videos about that pipe. 2 bolts there at the back of the EGR cooler. One guy took it off to check if it had coolant in it on a video i watched. So, that pipe can get clogged up with soot and cause trouble?

[JimT]

I think Lonestar10 is on to something. Maybe start there for the exhaust leak.

Next, before digging too deep into the internals of the engine, check the EGR valve and turbo to make sure they are functioning correctly as well as doing a complete EGR tune-up. You said the truck starts up and initially runs smooth which makes me think what you're feeling could be EGR related.

You didn't mention, but I'd have to guess that you're using about 1 gallon of oil every 4-5k miles? My guess here is you're burning plenty of oil then the system is spending plenty of time regening, using lots of extra fuel and absolutely killing you fuel mileage, trying to keep the system from getting clogged up. If you haven't started having DPF issues yet, you're probably pretty close. Between the burnt oil, possible unburnt fuel and a possible exhaust leak that would also explain the white smoke. The residue in the DPF is smoldering at the start of a regen, before it gets up to a higher temp. My truck had a similar problem. I would start the truck up, get rolling and before I got out of the parking lot it was already working on an active regen. Early on this wasn't too bad, it would smoke until it got up to temp then the smoke would go away and everything was fine. Eventually though the smoke started lasting longer and longer and the regens would sometimes last all day. At that point I think I had a number of things that were contributing to the problem, so i can't say exactly what the cause was or how to fix it.

Beyond that you have your work cut out for you going through that truck and trying to undo the lifetime of abuse. You seem a bit new to working on this engine, perhaps you should consider taking it to Mr. Hagg in GA to get it in shape, then you can learn to maintain it properly from there. Trying to learn and diagnose and fix and operate all at the same time is not easy (i know, I've been doing that) so unless you're in a desperate situation maybe let someone else help, at least initially.

Absolutely try to eliminate idling.

Get that engine operating in it's full RPM range. Try not to operate below 1400rpm under any load except the first gear or two. (It will be tough with a 9 speed) That will be better on the engine and it will help get the truck moving better.

[TruckerRalph]

(04-18-2020 )JimT Wrote:  I think Lonestar10 is on to something. Maybe start there for the exhaust leak.

Next, before digging too deep into the internals of the engine, check the EGR valve and turbo to make sure they are functioning correctly as well as doing a complete EGR tune-up. You said the truck starts up and initially runs smooth which makes me think what you're feeling could be EGR related.

You didn't mention, but I'd have to guess that you're using about 1 gallon of oil every 4-5k miles? My guess here is you're burning plenty of oil then the system is spending plenty of time regening, using lots of extra fuel and absolutely killing you fuel mileage, trying to keep the system from getting clogged up. If you haven't started having DPF issues yet, you're probably pretty close. Between the burnt oil, possible unburnt fuel and a possible exhaust leak that would also explain the white smoke. The residue in the DPF is smoldering at the start of a regen, before it gets up to a higher temp. My truck had a similar problem. I would start the truck up, get rolling and before I got out of the parking lot it was already working on an active regen. Early on this wasn't too bad, it would smoke until it got up to temp then the smoke would go away and everything was fine. Eventually though the smoke started lasting longer and longer and the regens would sometimes last all day. At that point I think I had a number of things that were contributing to the problem, so i can't say exactly what the cause was or how to fix it.

Beyond that you have your work cut out for you going through that truck and trying to undo the lifetime of abuse. You seem a bit new to working on this engine, perhaps you should consider taking it to Mr. Hagg in GA to get it in shape, then you can learn to maintain it properly from there. Trying to learn and diagnose and fix and operate all at the same time is not easy (i know, I've been doing that) so unless you're in a desperate situation maybe let someone else help, at least initially.

Absolutely try to eliminate idling.

Get that engine operating in it's full RPM range. Try not to operate below 1400rpm under any load except the first gear or two. (It will be tough with a 9 speed) That will be better on the engine and it will help get the truck moving better.

Thank you Mr. Jim for all the great advise and encouraging words. When i first bought the truck it absolutely ran flawless. I drove it from memphis back to atlanta and not one single issure. It wasnt until i started hauliing loads that I started having problems. I havent driven it in the past 3 weeks due to low rates and the company im leased on to looking out for me and theirselves. I want to just get it fixed, and keep on rolling. I cant afford to spend alot of down time fixing it. I dont have anywhere to work on it except at a truckstop parking lot. But I guess that will have to do. Thats where its parked now and thats where i changed the imap and deltaP sensors. No biggy i suppose.

[Lonestar10]

could also be the timing and metering actuators on the driver side of engine causing it to rock they are the actuators lined up above the spin on fuel filter on engine they are aligned this way Metering - Timing - Fuel Shut Off - Timing Metering

you could also make sure the overhead is set good if it is then use this tool https://www.amazon.com/3164001-Injector-...185&sr=8-1
to check if an injector is leaking combustion backwards this could also cause this issue.

rawze has a video or two on how to use it on the 871.

also the pipe on back of engine doesnt typically plug just the orange boost type boot on it will get hard and brittle and blow a hole in it.

[Rawze]

(04-17-2020 )TruckerRalph Wrote:  ...
I dont have anywhere, other than a truck stop parking lot, to do that at. I live in a subdivision and code enforcement is a nightmare.
...

Based on a truck, as you have described, at the end of its service life from neglect and low-rpm abuse ... My thoughts would be -- Not being able to work on it is a bad recipe. ... your income would likely fair better as a company driver. A Person has to be able to work on their own equip in this modern world of trucking if they want anything to show for their efforts.

(04-17-2020 )TruckerRalph Wrote:  ...
the guy hooked up a Snapon reader
...
As many times as i have looked over the motor with a flashlight and a fine tooth comb, every thing is still painted factory red.
...
the guy that hooked it up to that snapon thing said
...

Perhaps relying too much on "the guy this and the guy that and the shop this, and the shop that"? That is the death of many trucking businesses. You end up giving too much money away on putting out fires, never really getting on top of your problems.


And WHY THE HELL CAN'T A PERSON PULL THE VALVE COVER IN a TRUCK STOP PARKING LOT!??? -- I DO IT ALL THE TIME.. HELL I WORK ON MY TRUCK ALL THE TIME IN A PARKING LOT -- ITS CALLED ---- TRUCKING!!!

DITCH THE COMPANY DRIVER MENTALITY-- YOU OWN EQUIPMENT NOW-- GET WITH THE TIMES AND REALIZE THAT YOU NEED TO WORK ON IT AND INVEST IN THE PROPER TOOLS AND EQIUP. YOURSELF IF YOU EVER WANT TO HAVE SOMETHING YOU CAN BE PROUD OF!

* PULL the valve cover off it and inspect the overhead cams, and perform a complete overhead valve adjustment while you at it.

* REPLACE EVERY GODDAMN SENSOR ON THE ENGINE THAT IS STILL PAINTED RED, ESPECIALLY THE INTAKE, EGR, AND EXHAUST SENSORS --- IF THEY ARE STILL FACTORY ... IT OBVIOUSLY HAS BEEN SEVERELY NEGLECTED!!! -- < ALL RED FLAGS THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SEEN BEFORE PURCHASE. COMBINED that with the horrible 1500-RPM LIMITER!? - ANd a 9-speed? - Those are red flags for any truck, especially a used one. Makes me wonder how tall the rear ratio is too. Another red flag.

WITH THAT 9-SPEED, YOU SHOULD BE SHIFTING IT BETWEEN 1500 and 1900+ RPM'S WHEN PULLING ANY KIND OF HEAVY LOAD OR GOING UP ANY KIND OF HILLS!. it being locked down to low rpm's like that is torture on the engine and shortens its life significantly.

You never mentioned the rear ratio of the truck ... or what kind of freight your hauling with it or other specs much.

Soinds like it also needs to have the 9-sped converted to a 13 speed. - The kit is only a few hundred bucks or so and can easily be installed from what I understand.

People and fleets alike are notorious for neglecting the hell out of their engine/truck, knowing they will get rid of it at half million miles or so. ... and the next person ends up with the headaches, wonder why it will not run right and it ready for an inframe so soon. Sounds so far like you purchased exactly this kind of nightmare type of truck. ... now you had best go out and buy some damn tools, adapter, laptop, etc. and get to it!

You would not buy a used house with 60+% of its useful life gone already and not expect it not to not be run down and the roof not leaky? -- Why should you think a truck would be any better?

- You do realize that you decided to buy a truck,.. not having any place to work on it... and likely purchased a fleet-spec'd abused piece of equip,.. not knowing what a nightmare it could potentially be,.. and stacked the cards against yourself quite badly. -- Not a good way to start out. Hopefully you will now realize this so that you do not keep making mistakes. It is actually hard to buy used equipment these days that is even half-way worth a damn any more because of horrible fleet-spec'd trucks and abuses beyond insane that only allow the truck to make it barely thru that warranty, then get dumped into the used market, severely neglected. - Sounds like you may well have chose one of them that fits this bill to the "T".

Hopefully you will not be the typical story seen on here time and time again -- The one seen here by a hundred other people just like you that ended up buying a severely abused, neglected piece of equip because they could not look past that shiny paint job, never looked at the engine insides, nor considered its horrible spec, nor considered the fact that you will have to learn to work on it yourself if you want to make it out here in this over-competitive market, etc... . and in less than a year later ... wondering why it started pushing coolant out of the top of the resiviour (blown head gasket) then wondering how your going to afford the $20,000 to inframe it.

* Repalce all the red sensors, anything more than 250k miles old on the enigne and ite emissions systems including DPF sensors, etc. - go thru the whole thing.

* Pull the DOC and DPF cans off it, take pics, post them here for ipinions,.. then take em to a stealers$it that has proper machines and have them baked out, de-ashed, and flow tested.

* Replace the Doser injector if it is old. Clean from soot and carbon buildup otherwise.

* Pull the valve cover and inspect the overhead cams,.. and do a complete overhead adjustment.

* Get or make some block-off plates front and back of turbo, and pressure test that whole engine to 40-psi. Fix all leaks.

* go thru the rest of the truck and replace shocks, air bags that are dry-rotted, re-torque all the rear axle bearings, etc. etc.etc... do all of the maint that is required for a truck at the 10k,20k,50k,100,250k,500k interval according to its actual maint schedule + make a full inspection report on it. -- Here is a full maint schedule for a prostar. Print it out and do all the stuff on it up to the mileage of the truck. make sure its in tip top shape. Even tho its for prostar, most of it would apply to any truck ... http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...0#pid26680

* Install boost gauge while your at it.. start learning how to drive by it.

* Get an inline-6 adapter, even if it is a chineesium one off e-bay. Perform tests, etc. do forced regen, etc. to ensure the system is completely healthy. Also remove that gear-down protection bulls$it 1500 crap off it while your at it, then learn to drive it properly.

-- Ask yourself "What would Rawze do to this truck if he ended up with it?" -- You think i would have driven it one damn mile without doing all that stuff and a whole lot more?-- There is a reason why i am very successful as an owner-op. It is because I know damn well by now that a truck that is not in tip-top shape, nose to toes, inside and out, will not make money, cost you headaches and excess fuel, and lay down on you in the middle of goddamn nowhere, especially if there is any excuse for it to.