Trans and gear oil?

[Rawze]

(04-26-2021 )Redland1 Wrote:  ... the amount of miles between drain intervals
...

"Additive Separation" qualities in an oil usually dictates drain intervals in gear-boxes. - I have not seen any synthetic vs. standard oils have superior "separation" claims with data to back any of them up.

NEXT: you should be changing your oil every 2 years or 250k miles, whichever comes first... despite what the manufacturer tells ya. This is to stave off "Separation" (and sheering) ... Unlike your engine, the main reason gear-box oils stop working well to protect the components.

so -- there is no advantages to synthetic in a gearbox that I can see based on differences in oil qualities alone. - 'Environmental Factors' is usually the only scale for determining synthetic oils vs. conventional, especially in a gearbox. ... but the oil makers would brain-wash you otherwise. How else are they gong to sell you their super-duper-oils if you can't reasonably justify the 2x or more expense differences?. They sell you the stuff on opinion and brainwashing fear alone.. that is how they get you to buy it.


- Just some words of wisdom ... not trying to enter a full debate about oils and their properties... the beer is talkin'.

[Waterloo]

(04-26-2021 )Redland1 Wrote:  

(04-26-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  

(04-25-2021 )Redland1 Wrote:  The supertech 80w90 I found on Walmart.com is not synthetic.Is that the right one?

It is the one a lot of us use... Is there a particular reason you need only a synthetic? ... or is it just to make yourself feel better by spending more $$ moneys on oil?

would depend on your operations and climates that you frequent.

-- the next Q. would be "are you replacing all your gearbox oils at 250k miles (or equivalent hours) or every 2 years ... whichever comes first, usually at the same time you re-torque all your hub bearings and do all the other 250k truck maintenance ... like you should be?

The only reason I was thinking synthetic was because of the amount of miles between drain intervals.But as far as having a preference I don’t.Motor oil is going to be conventional and the OCI will either be 10 or 12k.Haven’t quite decided on that one yet.

Just got the truck.But I will be replacing and re-torquing every 250k going forward.

I would not waste the monies on synthetics, the prices are ridiculous on that stuff. Your moped, why not, it takes a quart of oil, not 11 gallons! And careful with the extended drains, I do not think anyone here would recommend doing that on these EPA motors, delete or no delete, even with a secondary oil filter. Soot is the issue, the reason why no one here will recommend going with an extended drain program, too much damage can be done to the motor, and there is plenty of proof out there to back that statement up.

Then the additives, many have been stripped out of these new motor oils to meet the new emission standards. That is the reason many of us use a gallon of gear oil, it has the additives our motors needs, along with leaving a nice sticky coating on all metal it touches. When you cold start, that gear oil is there protecting the metal.

If you still have the mandate on the truck, best bet is to go to Amsoil and buy one of their universal remote oil filter kits. Many here have installed them in regards to keeping the soot levels down in their motors, and they do work. You can use any oil filter that fits the Amsoil housing, you do not have to use Amsoil filters.

I think most of us here that haul general freight change our oil between 12,000 and 18,000 miles, depending on where we run and the weight we haul. When I am in the mountains, the oil gets changed between 10,000 and 12,000, running flats around MI, OH and IN, I'll let her go to 15,000 miles or so... I can usually tell when she wants an oil change, the fuel mileage tends to taper a bit, and she just feels different. Kind of like a crabby woman.

Here is the Amsoil universal filter kit, you will need to supply the lines and fittings. https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-bypa...tem-bmk30/

[Redland1]

Went to drain the diffs and trans but the forward diff fluid still looked new,the rear was a tiny bit dirtier,and the trans fluid looked new as well.

[Chamberpains]

Did you change the oil anyway so you know for certain the age and mileage on the oil for the next time it needs changed?

I dont even hesitate, if I can't say for certain how old a fluid is then out it goes.

[Redland1]

(04-28-2021 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Did you change the oil anyway so you know for certain the age and mileage on the oil for the next time it needs changed?

I dont even hesitate, if I can't say for certain how old a fluid is then out it goes.

It looked good and didn’t smell terrible,so I figured I would run it a little bit like that.

[tree98]

Oil is cheap, hard parts are not.

[Ricky]

I have the Ultrashift and it's supposed to have 50w because any heavier and the computer doesn't act nicely shifting. When I changed it I used the Valvoline 50w racing oil. It works great and besides I keep it on hand for my Model T.

[Rawze]

(04-29-2021 )Ricky Wrote:  I have the Ultrashift and it's supposed to have 50w because any heavier and the computer doesn't act nicely shifting. When I changed it I used the Valvoline 50w racing oil. It works great and besides I keep it on hand for my Model T.

I guess the people over at Ultrashift want it to wear out quicker.

[Zhidden]

(04-29-2021 )Ricky Wrote:  I have the Ultrashift and it's supposed to have 50w because any heavier and the computer doesn't act nicely shifting. When I changed it I used the Valvoline 50w racing oil. It works great and besides I keep it on hand for my Model T.

Have did gear lube in ultras works fine.

But if you wanna run 50 why not a trans 50 like syngear