My Pete rebuild

[Rawze]

(01-09-2022 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
I've read that crank ends under high torque has a lot of bend and twist, up to .050" Again, an area I really don't know much about, which is why I've been relying on Quickserve to check everything....

Yes. at 500+ horsepower and 2000+ ft.lb load on an engine crank..l there will be a lot of flex in it.. especially when cylinder #6 is on the down stroke. All of the play in the #7 main bearing alone (and about 1/3 in the #6 main), (minus the oil film) comes into play the most at this stage, and as such.. viscosity and bearing clearances are the 2 most very important factors on loading.

As far as a large amount like 0.050" on an ISX.. its likely doubtful .. on a guess, it would likely be roughly in the 0.014" - 0.018" range at the rear seal, given the closeness of the #7 main bearings to it, and less than that at the front, where there is only the loading of the valve train + viscosity of all the other journals to overcome.. Some distortion comes from overall "flex" loading .. but some also comes form the weak points in the crank journals where the oil rifle is drilled into them. I am only giving a "bulls#itters-sake" estimated guess, based on experiences with that type of thing... I really have never measured it. It really would surprise me if it were much more than this.

[Nostalgic]

I've been running it for a few weeks now. Running a new cast iron oil pump with no regulator shimming. The gear whine really stood out, but it has faded *some*. Oil pressure is extremely consistent. 22-25 psi hot idle, and 32-35 psi @ 1500 rpm.

3 small issues I'm in process of sorting out.

1- Oil seep at fuel pump. I swapped the fuel pump for a new recon last week, and the new one leaks also. It appears to be at the gasket, and just leaks a few drops over the week - enough to make a wet oil spot on the filter housing below the intake manifold. (IFSM housing is new)

2- #4 exhaust valve seals are leaking. I got the valve spring compressor and have new seals ordered. I'll pull the intake manifold and check all of the intake valves when I do #4, but I'm leaning towards just being either defective seals or damaged somehow when the head was assembled.

The real head scratcher for me:
3- On most cold starts, I get a buzzing/vibration in the fuel line from the ECM cooling plate return to the fuel pump that lasts a few minutes. I'm not sure if it's air (or how air could get into that part of the system without a fuel leak being present) or just pulsation possibly from the regulator? Both pressure regulators are new (not that that means much).

[Nostalgic]

I haven't really seen it discussed much here, but just like the updated oil pumps seem do a pretty good job of maintaining consistent oil pressure across a fairly wide RPM and temp range, the new updated oil cooler housings have really narrowed down the control of oil temps.

I used a new housing kit (with aluminum cooler element) that came with a 235* thermostat pre-installed. It seemed to bring oil temps up to 230 pretty quickly and maintain that temp. A hard pull would see 240+, and even with the fan on coasting down the other side, it was just about impossible to get it to dip under 220.

Switching to a 215* thermostat cruises right around 212-218, and even on a hard pull with coolant at 210, the oil will barely break 230. I think this is due to tighter tolerances and a lot less "leak by" of the thermostat into the cooler element.

Old style on the left vs new "small bore" housing thermostat on the right:



4386527 is the number for the new style 215* thermostat. I'm pretty sure all recon engines now come with the newer housings. EPA class probably dictate which thermostat Cummins installs in them.

[marek4792]

I mentioned something about the thermostats briefly awhile back, with STOCK files with 235 thermostats it wasnt uncommon to see trucks break 250°F+ especially KWs and Petes when pulling long grades foot to the floor. I think one of the main factors is the condensation of the oil if the temperature is too low. Hitting 240-250 on a stock file doesn't seem normal even if the engine is completely fine, but yet alot of trucks do.

[tree98]

My X15 (stock file) has always run a little hot on the oil temp. I guess this is probably why. Good to know.

[Nostalgic]

(06-10-2022 )marek4792 Wrote:  I mentioned something about the thermostats briefly awhile back, with STOCK files with 235 thermostats it wasnt uncommon to see trucks break 250°F+ especially KWs and Petes when pulling long grades foot to the floor. I think one of the main factors is the condensation of the oil if the temperature is too low. Hitting 240-250 on a stock file doesn't seem normal even if the engine is completely fine, but yet alot of trucks do.

I don't think those temps "hurt" the oil as much as they increase oxidation and shorten it's life. I haven't pulled any samples before or after changing the t-stat for proof, so just my speculation. I'll probably pull one at next OCI to get a baseline going forward. As an added benefit, the cooler oil temps give me about 3-4 oil psi increase @ 1800 rpm. Was strange to see oil pressure climb a little during a higher rpm pull instead of staying flat to 1-2 psi drop as the oil temp climbed before.

[J_Trinder]

[/font][font=Verdana]I did this on a 2ws cat. It worked. I didn't use nearly that much of a spacer though. It was a many years ago but I believe I only used two 1/8 inch washers. I put them in the end of the plunger also so they had no chance of wearing on anything, they were traped. They fit perfect. Made the oil pressure around 85 cold and 70 Ish warm if my memory is correct. What the long term effects were I really can't say. I no longer have the truck.

(08-01-2018 )Rawze Wrote:  

(08-01-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote:  ...
the little dimes with their grooved edges, grinding against the aluminum bore in my pump.
...

If you put them into the bottom of the bore where the spring sits like in the video I made, they do not move or cause any wear.

[Nostalgic]

Not much to update here, other than my new OE manifold warped after going through it's first few heat cycles. Seems like #5 has pulled out from the head enough to cause the metal whistle during high manifold pressure/volume while hot.

Cummins USA liners seem to make a little more iron and take longer to break in than the Cummins China liners for whatever reason. I did notice a difference in the hone finish between the two, but @ 80k miles or so, the iron is just about settled down to normal.

As for the manifold, I could not find anywhere near me that had a big belt sander to surface it, and wanted to do this over a weekend. So, new toy.



Pulled my junk manifold out of the scrap pile to make sure it fits with ends on, and hopefully this weekend I can pull mine off and flatten it out. Plan on sanding with 60,100, and finishing with 120. I have a pane of glass and some marking blue to check my work against, so fingers crossed it's as easy of a job as it is in my head lol.

[Rawze]

ALSO, and just as important is to ensure the manifold holes are reemed properly. This is one of the biggest reason (besides someone improperly torquing the bolts) that they break bolts to begin with. Here is a reference to this: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...2#pid66592
and...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...9#pid39699