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Rawze · 07-29-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

(07-29-2018 )same101us Wrote: Has anybody ever heard of balancing the rods and making them weigh all the same?

If you are going to go that way, I would suggest balance the piston/rod assemblies as a whole + check depth at TDC for each cyl instead of just doing one tiny part of it.

Nostalgic · 07-30-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Lots of Cummins boxes being emptied (ironic, I've spent more on Cummins stuff than I did the IPD out of frame kit), but it feels like I'm moving at a snail's pace. Front and rear crank seals installed (thanks to Mumau Diesel for loaning me the tools for the afternoon).

Just put the oil cooler and pan on as dust covers for now, but it's starting to look a little more like an engine.

Got to see my first water spout(s) yesterday. Didn't get as good of pictures as my wife, but that's usual.

Nostalgic · 07-31-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

(07-29-2018 )Rawze Wrote:
(07-29-2018 )same101us Wrote: Has anybody ever heard of balancing the rods and making them weigh all the same?

If you are going to go that way, I would suggest balance the piston/rod assemblies as a whole + check depth at TDC for each cyl instead of just doing one tiny part of it.

Got me thinking, I couldn't find any mention of piston protrusion/depth specs in quickserve. No, I'm not pulling my rods and weighing anything lol.

Nostalgic · 08-01-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Today's lunch break was consumed with producing a solution to a problem that likely didn't really exist outside of my....

Oil pressure.

So the consensus is 8 dimes. Since half of my truck was apart and in the side boxes, I had the luxury to dig through a box and find all the pieces to the oil pump and see exactly how it works. I may be wrong, but as I see it, the pressure is actually regulated off the bore that comes down from the front gear cover. It flows into the side of the Oring'd cap and through the orifice at the base, pushes the dogbone down to relieve pressure back into the pickup tube side of the pump gears. The ball and spring overload is a secondary safety relief in case the dogbone would get seized, etc., and in reality, should never relieve or move unless something is wrong.

Anyhow, where was I? Ok, the moving dogbone. I just see it moving a LOT, fluxuating to changing temps and pressures way upstream of the pump. If the dogbone is moving, the spring is compressing and decompressing against the stack of dimes pretty much constantly. I just see (in my engine only, since no on else has had a problem with them lol), the little dimes with their grooved edges, grinding against the aluminum bore in my pump. The dimes are a loose fit, but a penny @ .75" with it's smooth edges, fits perfectly. Only a penny, even today's zinc pennies, are plated in copper, and copper & aluminum doesn't play well together. I don't need this stress in my life lol.

So, as a solution to my created crisis, I bought a 1/2"x3/4" aluminum spacer and spent an extra long lunch break diamond filing it down to to a height of .407"

So voila, my shim.

Rawze · 08-01-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

(08-01-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: ...
the little dimes with their grooved edges, grinding against the aluminum bore in my pump.
...

If you put them into the bottom of the bore where the spring sits like in the video I made, they do not move or cause any wear.

Nostalgic · 08-01-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

(08-01-2018 )Rawze Wrote:
(08-01-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: ...
the little dimes with their grooved edges, grinding against the aluminum bore in my pump.
...

If you put them into the bottom of the bore where the spring sits like in the video I made, they do not move or cause any wear.

In the pump housing I've been playing with, the base is big enough for slop. Who knows, when I open my new one to put my shim in, maybe it won't fit lol.

Nostalgic · 08-01-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Hard to get a good pic with my phone, and the bore scope is in the bottom of the drawer lol, but you can see how much room is around them. If I get ambitious, I'll drop my pan and peek into my new pump later.

Nostalgic · 08-01-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

There's actually a little room around my shim too, but it's in, new cotter pin is in, and I just need to torque the pump bolt and put the pan back on.

Nostalgic · 08-05-2018, **(Subject: My Pete rebuild )**

Slowly getting there. I looked for chrome or polished stainless bolts to use on the front cover, but struck out finding anything with a shoulder. They wouldn't look bad black, but I'm lacking in the patience for tedious jobs department. I do need contrast though, the wash of red is too much for me haha.

I had the water pump on, and I just can't put this together with a pump of unkown age, so I convinced myself the bearing didn't sound right lol. I'll decide what brand I'm going with tomorrow. I picked up a PAI oil pan and have to say I'm impressed with it for a new <$300 pan.
Any feedback on pumps from PAI? Carquest has one, but pricing is closer to the "might as well just go OEM" mark.

Pulled the cooler off one last time since I missed the loctite on the cooler core mounting bolts. Was browsing through Rawze's videos and saw the updated oil bypass valve... So that's added (minus the paint ring around the cap).

I have to say, I'm going to miss seeing this deck, but the head goes on next.

Then I need to clear the bench and tear into my compressor.