Oil sample not looking good.

[FLdriver]

Changed the oil today. Around 11k miles. Switched it to Rotella with a gallon of gear oil. Sending a sample again to see how it looks on this shorter interval.

Oil pressure was never low, always above 25 hot low idle but never over 50 hot or cold. No sits about 45ish. Not much different so I'm hoping I caught it early.

How much would those bearings take a beating from lugging? If they do take a good amount I'm willing to bet that's a lot of the issue since this truck was not speced to pull the weight that I do.

Changed the fuel filters as well even tho the Davco wasn't even half full but the filter was black.

Going to order a new air filter housing. It's slightly warped but I think the biggest issue is one of the bolts broke the plastic that holds the two pieces together. It has some dust on the inside just past the filter.

[Volvo8873]

(08-09-2023 )FLdriver Wrote:  Think I'll call Hagg, make the drive and have some other work done while it's there.

^^^^^^^^^^
Please do! You will appreciate your decision when all said and done!!!!

[Rawze]

(08-12-2023 )FLdriver Wrote:  Changed the oil today. Around 11k miles. Switched it to Rotella with a gallon of gear oil. Sending a sample again to see how it looks on this shorter interval.

Oil pressure was never low, always above 25 hot low idle but never over 50 hot or cold. No sits about 45ish. Not much different so I'm hoping I caught it early.

How much would those bearings take a beating from lugging? If they do take a good amount I'm willing to bet that's a lot of the issue since this truck was not speced to pull the weight that I do.

Changed the fuel filters as well even tho the Davco wasn't even half full but the filter was black.

Going to order a new air filter housing. It's slightly warped but I think the biggest issue is one of the bolts broke the plastic that holds the two pieces together. It has some dust on the inside just past the filter.

Dust getting past the air filter is a quick way to wear out the cylinders. Needs to be fixed asap.

As far as lugging it at high torque and below 1500rpm a lot ... it cuts engine life about in half or less over time.

[FLdriver]

(08-12-2023 )Rawze Wrote:  

(08-12-2023 )FLdriver Wrote:  Changed the oil today. Around 11k miles. Switched it to Rotella with a gallon of gear oil. Sending a sample again to see how it looks on this shorter interval.

Oil pressure was never low, always above 25 hot low idle but never over 50 hot or cold.

How much would those bearings take a beating from lugging? If they do take a good amount I'm willing to bet that's a lot of the issue since this truck was not speced to pull the weight that I do.

Changed the fuel filters as well even tho the Davco wasn't even half full but the filter was black.

Going to order a new air filter housing. It's slightly warped but I think the biggest issue is one of the bolts broke the plastic that holds the two pieces together. It has some dust on the inside just past the filter.

Dust getting past the air filter is a quick way to wear out the cylinders. Needs to be fixed asap.

As far as lugging it at high torque and below 1500rpm a lot ... it cuts engine life about in half or less over time.

Going to order the new housing Monday. This thing has been lugged all its life until I got it but there is only so much I can do until I can change the rears.

Surprisingly it doesn't seem to be using any oil.

[JimT]

man, $960 for an overhead adjustment? That's what, about a hour job, maybe 2? barely even need tools to do it too.

also, at least some of those prices are ridiculous. LF14000NN for $68? I usually get a package of 2 off amazon for $70 with free shipping (looks like current price is up to $80 for 2 now). I'd say the oil price sounds reasonable for about 14 gallons, but it's quoted using 10w30 instead of 10w40.

What's stopping you from doing the overhead yourself and even dropping the pan to inspect the bottom end yourself? While doing the bottom end isn't hard either, I can understand letting someone else do the replacement, especially with all the time you have to spend on your back under the oily block. I did my entire inframe, including rods and mains, in Rawze's driveway 3 years ago this month with no prior major engine training or experience. Between the information freely available on Cummins Quickserv, this forum and a handful of youtube videos (to help me visualize the procedures) it was pretty straight forward. Rawze helped with some knowledge and wisdom and a few times when multiple hands or specialty work (such as cutting the ledges) were required, but he made it clear from the beginning that it was my project, not his.

Anyway, not saying you NEED to do it yourself, just curious as to why that isn't an option?

[FLdriver]

(08-13-2023 )JimT Wrote:  man, $960 for an overhead adjustment? That's what, about a hour job, maybe 2? barely even need tools to do it too.

also, at least some of those prices are ridiculous. LF14000NN for $68? I usually get a package of 2 off amazon for $70 with free shipping (looks like current price is up to $80 for 2 now). I'd say the oil price sounds reasonable for about 14 gallons, but it's quoted using 10w30 instead of 10w40.

What's stopping you from doing the overhead yourself and even dropping the pan to inspect the bottom end yourself? While doing the bottom end isn't hard either, I can understand letting someone else do the replacement, especially with all the time you have to spend on your back under the oily block. I did my entire inframe, including rods and mains, in Rawze's driveway 3 years ago this month with no prior major engine training or experience. Between the information freely available on Cummins Quickserv, this forum and a handful of youtube videos (to help me visualize the procedures) it was pretty straight forward. Rawze helped with some knowledge and wisdom and a few times when multiple hands or specialty work (such as cutting the ledges) were required, but he made it clear from the beginning that it was my project, not his.

Anyway, not saying you NEED to do it yourself, just curious as to why that isn't an option?

Still learning this motor. I personally have no problem doing it myself but would much rather have someone knowledgeable there the first time I attempt it. I'm a visual/hands on kind of learner. I've seen the videos but it's harder for me to learn that way at times. Plus I don't have the best spot to be opening this thing up. I do much of my work myself already unless it requires some thing special or some thing I just don't feel like messing with. I'm also expecting a worse case scenario atleast in the top end since it's never been opened from what I can tell. At that point my warranty should hopefully kick in.

[RollinCoal]

feeler gauges and basic tools all you need,
Ive done many of them in my front yard

[FLdriver]

Dropped off today for overhead, crank damper and other misc things. Find out how the top end looks soon. Told him to go over everything on it.

Still waiting on Blackstone to send last oil sample report.

[FLdriver]

Got truck back a couple days ago. Haven't gone back to work yet but doesn't feel much better. Hoped an overhead and crank damper would have smoothed it out a lot more. Shop said they didn't see any issues in the top end. Tried to attach 2 videos but it won't let me. Put a water bottle on the air cleaner housing and it walked all over the place.