Red Stop Engine Light |
03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #10 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light You need to do a blow by test, fast! You could have a cracked piston or rings pushing combustion into crankcase. Worstcase scenario, we went through that and had to overhaul. Don't keep pushing it! [/font] User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
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03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #11 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light (03-16-2017 )Rawze Wrote:(03-16-2017 )Tmaj12k Wrote: Hi guys. I'm in need of some help. Maybe there is somebody out there who has experienced what I'm going through and can offer some insight for me. I have a 2010 Prostar with a Cummins ISX engine. I've been having an issue where if I'm driving with a load, as I increase my speed and get up between 50-60 mph, my yellow engine warning light comes on. As I continue to drive and increase the speed between 65-70, the red light comes on. I have to pull over and shut the truck off. Once restarted, the lights are gone. Then everything happens all over again. I'm pretty local. So in the 2+ years of having the truck I've put about 100k on it. So it was time to change it back in January. But now the red light is back. I think I'm gonna change the filter again to buy myself some time until I can figure out what's happening | |||
03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #12 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light (03-16-2017 )Tmaj12k Wrote: I'm pretty local. So in the 2+ years of having the truck I've put about 100k on it. So it was time to change it back in January. But now the red light is back. I think I'm gonna change the filter again to buy myself some time until I can figure out what's happening This would be called The Stick Your Head In the Sand Procedure # 000-000. If you are getting excessive crankcase pressure, something is wrong, period. Excessive crankcase pressure is an indicator of potential catastrophic component failure. A cracked piston could let go and blast a hole through the block &/or head, most likely both rendering your engine scrap metal. A dropped or shifted liner could potentially dump extreme enough quantities of coolant into the oil and very quickly wear reusable components to the point of replacement. Or just for fun, fill the cylinder with coolant during an intake stroke and hydraulically lock on compression, bending a rod, or the crank, cracking the head and possibly the block. Excessive crankcase pressure comes from 3 sources; 1)Compression blowby-worn rings, cracked piston(s), etc. 2)Turbo face seal-the charge pressure leaks past the seal and into the oil, into the crankcase. 3)Plugged crankcase ventilation-it could be as simple as this. Perhaps the vent tube from the crankcase filter housing to atmosphere is plugged and just needs to be blown free with compressed air... or you could go with Procedure # 000-000... User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..." | |||
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03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #13 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light (03-17-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:(03-16-2017 )Tmaj12k Wrote: I'm pretty local. So in the 2+ years of having the truck I've put about 100k on it. So it was time to change it back in January. But now the red light is back. I think I'm gonna change the filter again to buy myself some time until I can figure out what's happening Definitely don't want to stick my head in the sand. After reading your message I'm heading to the shop. | |||
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03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #14 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light I appreciate all this feedback guys. It's scary to hear what the issue could be but keep it coming | |||
03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #15 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light (03-17-2017 )Tmaj12k Wrote: Definitely don't want to stick my head in the sand. After reading your message I'm heading to the shop. Not performing 000-000 was a very smart decision. You could do this https://youtu.be/-Og4jCM6Rfg yourself for $2.00 of hose. Don't let a shop or mechanic blow smoke up your backside. If they change the filter and tell you your all good to go, smile and drive away. Then go find yourself a new shop, cause they suck! Where are you located? Perhaps someone here knows of a good shop in your area. User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..." | |||
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03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #16 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light We're not trying to scare you, well maybe a little. Tough love. Stop engine warning is just that, STOP ENGINE! The result of ignoring it is putting a window in your block. This is what a CC filter looks like from combustion intrusion. Mind you that it never gave a stop engine warning. One day no smoke out of the breather, the next it was like a locomotive. User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
03-17-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #17 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light Cracked piston with hole blown through by bad injector. Tear down revealed combustion ring broken in 3 pieces compounded the problem. Still yielded 7.5+ mpg even with these problems. Don't despair, we'll talk you off the ledge. User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
03-18-2017, (Subject: Red Stop Engine Light ) Post: #18 | |||
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RE: Red Stop Engine Light Does the filter have oil running out of it? Drill holes in filter, there is video on that also, or buy new maintenance free one. If it's oil soaked you most likely have excessive blow by. How much oil does it use? How many miles on engine? From my experience your have in frame in your future. Run a gallon of gear lube in oil to thicken it up a little and do the filter deal and go to work and save your money, your gonna need it. It seems you may be were all of us have been. Wore out motor caused by egr dpf systems not being maintained and engine full of soot. Another word of advice, if you mm it oil consumption and blow by will get worse. Good luck. | |||
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