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Husky05

It's 23 degrees here, engine is reading 83 degrees. Can't have frozen or gelled fuel on the fuel system right now. Yes it was minus 40 overnight few days ago. I have winterized fuel and anti gel in it.

I took the supply line off the water fuel separator filter housing, no fuel came out. Seems like it will only run if I pressurize the tanks from that line.

I can't find any vent on the tanks to check to make sure they are clear.

That could possibly mean leak in fuel line somewhere? Fuel is supposed to stay in the line after shut down right?

snailexpress

(02-02-2019 )Husky05 Wrote: It's 23 degrees here, engine is reading 83 degrees. Can't have frozen or gelled fuel on the fuel system right now. Yes it was minus 40 overnight few days ago. I have winterized fuel and anti gel in it.

I took the supply line off the water fuel separator filter housing, no fuel came out. Seems like it will only run if I pressurize the tanks from that line.

I can't find any vent on the tanks to check to make sure they are clear.

That could possibly mean leak in fuel line somewhere? Fuel is supposed to stay in the line after shut down right?

You mentioned you did air blow back in fuel tank, did you? Fuel line should be prefilled with fuel like siphon hose. You can apply some air pressure to the fuel tank to force fuel in fuel line or apply some vacuum to the top of water separator bowl and suck fuel in. fuel line should be connected to the water separator if you use vacuum.
Blowing fuel lines in back direction with air is bad idea as it will damage valves in T-split connector.

smorgan87

Be sure u run the lift pump until it shuts off, then key off and do it again. Make sure ur not sucking air between the davco and tanks.

smorgan87

Or sucking air from the davco seal.

Chamberpains

Is there fuel in the davco bowl. If not your bleedback ball valve on the inlet side is probably stuck or broke. Unscrew the brass fitting for the inlet line. There will or should be a plastic ball with a spring in the davco. Pul it out and check it for "Mung", distortion, broken or just replace it for peace of mind. They are very common to fail. Allowing the fuel to bleed back in to the tanks after shutdown.

Husky05

Well the truck started yesterday afternoon after no successful starts in the morning. I realized that when I fill up the Davco filter with fuel and key on, it only fills up the 2nd filter under the rail, so when it starts and then die it was because it ran out of fuel in that filter. So I filled up the Davco again, turned key on and let it fill up the 2nd filter as I kept filling the Davco so it didn't run empty. topped it off when it stopped draining. Blew compressed air in the breather line on the tank, started it up it ran but rough, got out and pumped more air in the tank and it started to run better. did other tank too. So far it runs and I can turn it off and restart no problem now.

But it is not running perfectly, seems like it's over fueling somewhere, also boost is only going up to 18psi instead of 32-35 psi. Vibration seems like something is not fueling properly.

Going to work on it today and do injector leak test and try figure out why I'm not getting full boost. Could the boost issue be bad exhaust mainfold pressure sensor? It's a non VGT turbo.

Nilao

Being sarcastic here but without insite you might as well put a punch of part pictures on a wall, blindfold yourself and throw the dart at the wall replacing whatever the dart hits....

These aren't the days of mechanical engines where a mechanic with a good ear could fix it. Todays electronic motors need diagnostic software to tell what the sensors are reading so we can go through a troubleshooting tree so we are not just throwing good money after bad.

Rawze

(02-03-2019 )Husky05 Wrote: ..
? It's a non VGT turbo.

bsides your other problems,... your engine has been butchered by some ignorant brain-dead moron!.

Husky05

(02-03-2019 )Nilao Wrote: Being sarcastic here but without insite you might as well put a punch of part pictures on a wall, blindfold yourself and throw the dart at the wall replacing whatever the dart hits....

These aren't the days of mechanical engines where a mechanic with a good ear could fix it. Todays electronic motors need diagnostic software to tell what the sensors are reading so we can go through a troubleshooting tree so we are not just throwing good money after bad.

I have insite, I have ran I think all test I can do in insite and all passed. The cut out test, 2 or 3 injectors took some time to work smooth again after shutting individual off.

I have gone through the troubleshooting tree in quickserve with no avail on my current problem after getting the truck running again yesterday. Still can't get more than 18psi boost.