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earnies2 · 06-24-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-23-2019 )flatbed94kid Wrote: Not advertising but this guy explains it pretty well. Also on video so you can actually see what we're all talking about. Yes mine is leaking. Just nursing her by keeping extra oil to keep it topped off.

https://youtu.be/7AgGj7inuTc

How long has it been leaking and how much oil do you loose?

earnies2 · 06-24-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

Thanks I really need recommendations for a shop so I can get prices I will also check the cam covers today it is only leaking on the passenger side and I am loosing 1 gallon in 18,000 miles. So it just started leaking...

Hammerhead · 06-24-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: No, the oil pan does not have to come out. If your clutch is looking good, two years old, depending on miles, I would leave alone. That new clutch is more than likely the cause of that rear structure leak. That rear structure is your transmission mount on a ProStar, there are no other attachments to the transmission, just that rear housing. The housing gets jostled around when a clutch is installed, and that upsets that seal, the reason it is best to do the rear structure when installing a clutch.

Up to you on dropping the oil pan, that is not a difficult job, and once off, the pump is right there. Two to three hour job at most in a shop. Me, say four hours with beer breaks. The oil pump, not the rear structure... ;-)

Sorry Waterloo, but this is incorrect.
In order to replace the rear crank main seal, the oil pan doesn't need to be dropped, however to replace the rear structure gasket, the pan does need to be dropped. The rear 6 bolts of the oil pan don't thread into the block, they thread into the rear structure, thus breaking the oil pan seal and requiring removal and replacement...

Here is my thread on doing this particular job...

Oh yeah, and unless own the tools and do the job yourself, and even then only if you're into self cruel & unusual punishment, ALWAYS change the clutch! The cost of the clutch is half the cost of the labour for the job. As Rawze says "That's tripping over dollars to save dimes".

flatbed94kid · 06-24-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-24-2019 )earnies2 Wrote:
(06-23-2019 )flatbed94kid Wrote: Not advertising but this guy explains it pretty well. Also on video so you can actually see what we're all talking about. Yes mine is leaking. Just nursing her by keeping extra oil to keep it topped off.

https://youtu.be/7AgGj7inuTc
How long has it been leaking and how much oil do you loose?

Leaking since I had the truck. But I don't think this is the main reason of my oil loss. I add about 1 gallon every 4,000 miles or so.

Waterloo · 06-25-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-24-2019 )Hammerhead Wrote:
(06-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: No, the oil pan does not have to come out. If your clutch is looking good, two years old, depending on miles, I would leave alone. That new clutch is more than likely the cause of that rear structure leak. That rear structure is your transmission mount on a ProStar, there are no other attachments to the transmission, just that rear housing. The housing gets jostled around when a clutch is installed, and that upsets that seal, the reason it is best to do the rear structure when installing a clutch.

Up to you on dropping the oil pan, that is not a difficult job, and once off, the pump is right there. Two to three hour job at most in a shop. Me, say four hours with beer breaks. The oil pump, not the rear structure... ;-)

Sorry Waterloo, but this is incorrect.
In order to replace the rear crank main seal, the oil pan doesn't need to be dropped, however to replace the rear structure gasket, the pan does need to be dropped. The rear 6 bolts of the oil pan don't thread into the block, they thread into the rear structure, thus breaking the oil pan seal and requiring removal and replacement...

Here is my thread on doing this particular job...

Oh yeah, and unless own the tools and do the job yourself, and even then only if you're into self cruel & unusual punishment, ALWAYS change the clutch! The cost of the clutch is half the cost of the labour for the job. As Rawze says "That's tripping over dollars to save dimes".

Thank you for the correction. I thought it was separate, but, I have never done one. What the real shame is here, is that these shops know that when that transmission comes off, that rear structure is almost 100% guaranteed to leak when that truck leaves the shop. I swear they do this on purpose. Everyone I know that has had clutch work and not done the rear structure seal is back in the shop in short order to have it done. Criminal.

Hammerhead · 06-25-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-25-2019 )Waterloo Wrote: Thank you for the correction. I thought it was separate, but, I have never done one. What the real shame is here, is that these shops know that when that transmission comes off, that rear structure is almost 100% guaranteed to leak when that truck leaves the shop. I swear they do this on purpose. Everyone I know that has had clutch work and not done the rear structure seal is back in the shop in short order to have it done. Criminal.

Agreed, but part of this is also on Cummins.
The piss poor quality of the gasket doesn't help. I mean seriously, a ~1/8" wide rubber seal along a >1/2" wide steel gasket? No wonder it doesn't hold!
That's why I took Mr Hagg's advise and applied a liberal coating of anerobic gel to the gasket when I did mine. I assure you that the gel will do more than that pissant rubber strip to ensure a long lasting seal.

Rawze · 06-25-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-25-2019 )Hammerhead Wrote: ..
I took Mr Hagg's advise and applied a liberal coating of anerobic gel to the gasket when I did mine. I assure you that the gel will do more than that pissant rubber strip to ensure a long lasting seal.

mis-use that gel though, and you could kiss your engine goodbye,as that stuff is as hard as rock-candy when it dries. Just a warning for others who are less familliar with over-using gels and sealants on gaskets that don't normally need it.

Hammerhead · 06-25-2019, **(Subject: Rear structure )**

(06-25-2019 )Hammerhead Wrote: ..
I took Mr Hagg's advise and applied a liberal coating of anerobic gel to the gasket when I did mine. I assure you that the gel will do more than that pissant rubber strip to ensure a long lasting seal.

(06-25-2019 )Rawze Wrote: mis-use that gel though, and you could kiss your engine goodbye,as that stuff is as hard as rock-candy when it dries. Just a warning for others who are less familliar with over-using gels and sealants on gaskets that don't normally need it.

Yes, let me clarify, by "liberal coating" I mean full surface film coverage, not dripping gobs of excess.