timing and metering actuators

[3_milly871]

These actuators have 1,200 000 miles original they came with the motor and i have just over 28,000 hours on them and i run all OEM Fleet Guard filters for everything just my preference anyway

[Rawze]

(11-27-2017 )3_milly871 Wrote:  Heres what the actuators look like after removing them from the ifsm first photo is the metering actuator(3 holes) in the center and the second is the timing actuator (2 holes) in the center

In Post #6 ...

It is not normal for them to be that cached up with crud between the actuator and the IFSM. Is that silicone sealant? or some other substance? -- or has the gaskets deteriorated that badly?

In Post #8 ...

That seems to be quite a lot of step wear on the shanks of the plungers on a couple of them.

(11-27-2017 )3_milly871 Wrote:  ...
i put the actuators back together and did a ohm test to make sure that the metering plates were completely flush while looking in the fuel journals...

...

....if you have high resistance in any of these actuators there is definitely sludge, small debris, or maybe the metering screw as backed off a bit inside creating a situation..

...

In Post #9 ...

This post kinds implies that you would get a different electrical resistance on an ohm meter if the plungers inside the actuator were not in all the way mechanically. Not sure what you were saying here but i do know that electrical coils will not change resistance based on what metal they have inside them on an ohm meter. I.E. > You could have had them completely apart and only the coil in your hand and they would show the same resistance as if they were completely assembled.

You are also right though in some sense. The electrical coil component (top portion of the actuator) itself sometimes leak and saturated with fuel as they go bad. The body of the coil portion sometimes goes bad and cracks, then fuel and contaminants seeps into the coil itself. The fuel attacks the insulating materials of the coil itself, changing its resistance and usually shorting it out or causing tarnishing/corrosion of the windings. This in fact can be seen on an ohm meter.

-- All in All -> Your statement is valid for checking them and making sure they are electrically sound,.. only the methodology behind the resistance changing based on where the internal components are sitting was a bit wonky and unclear when I read it. You very well could have performed this test with them completely disassembled and only the coil portion in your hands.

Not trying to create an argument,.. just trying to clarify for others that may be reading all this and trying to learn.

[3_milly871]

Morning group...... so to make a long story short if you have the coil in your hand with or without the metering half and you decide to check the solenoid (coil ) to see if it is functioning properly .... an easy the way i found what works very well is to compress the metering plate gently in its hole and you will find that the more you squeeze the metering plate down or should i say further in to the coil... the higher the resistance so by theory if you had all of the coils out and 1 had some crud inside or it was jammed in some way open the ohm meter would directly show on that particular solenoid (coil) more resistance. if you take a DM and with the coil fully assembled and you push something non abrasive through the fuel journal to test where the coil is positioned you will find the resistance will increase meaning the metering plate is not sitting in its normal position if the rest of the coils show the same resistance you can definitely tell that there is an issue with the one showing higher resistance.......i hope this explains everything better and not trying to argue but help and grow just my opinion and findings thats all .!!!!!

[3_milly871]

Hey Rawze all that black stuff between the ifsm and the actuator itself i have no clue what it is but maybe it could be silicone or solevents from the diesel or something but these are the original actuators that came with this motor,...... though my fuel pump had a minuet leak not a dripping leak so maybe through it slowly allowing fuel to seep along the back wall of the ifsm and eventually penetrating the gaskets and with heat we no whats next oven baked diesel oil on metal or something close to it but i got them clean.....

[santa mariamotor]

(11-25-2017 )3_milly871 Wrote:  Hey group i will be removing my fuel timing actuators and metering actuators from the ifsm on my cm871 ....once i have them apart i will post some pics and what i found internally .......wear etc .....as for reinstallation does anyone have the torque specs for re-tightening these actuators with a new gasket thanks for any help....

i was trying to find my fuel timming and metering actuators on my cummins ism cm876, but I couldnt find them , where are they? this engine doesnt have them. kind of odd.