ODD Cummins oil pressure

[Nilao]

Looking at that link delo 400 would be better as it has the most zinc. Less detergent but a lower base number

[Rawze]

(12-11-2016 )Jarhead79 Wrote:  Rotella is sad. Does about as much good as Lucas.

If you want to make those kinds of blind statements, there are forums that thrive on that, where droves of company drivers can say what they want to... "TTR", and its romper-roominess atmosphere comes to mind real fast.

I don't want this place to be another "romper-room" where people make blind comments without some assemblance of educational or qualifying merit behind it.

This is exactly why I have resorted to simply deleting some of your previous posts. I don't have anything against you, you seem to be a generally cool guy,.. but sometimes, you seem to get bored, then post some serious romper-room ch-19 crap that does not belong here, -- Just saying.


======

I have no loyalty to any brand of oil, I simply follow what works for me. My Youtube engine re-build series shows the insides of my my own engine after 960k miles. -- It has run Rotella-T all its life with one gallon of gear oil at every oil change. Anyone can see what that oil did to my engine, and be their own judge, and I go out of my way to make no false claims in any of my videos, there is no benefit to it for anyone.

I chose Rotella because of 2 things. -- Of the top 3 most sold oils at the lube places, it has more zinc than delvac. I tried to go weith Delo, highest zinc,.. but it did not stay clean (bright colored like from the bottle) for as long as rotella does. rotella stays bright yellow for about 4,000 miles longer than Delo did in my engine every time i tried to use it. I also tried it again after my inframe here recently, and same result. Someone else may have a different story, not every truck and engine is the same.

-- Oil does not lie as it changes color, and tells you a lot as it does so, far beyond oil sampling does. Mine turns a bit darker yellow at 12-14k, then eventually brown-ish at about 15-18k miles,.. If i let it go more, it then starts to get a grey-ish under-tint to it much past about 20-22k miles. -- At that point, it definitely is no longer doing 100% of what it is supposed to do, so I don't let it get much past medium-to dark brown before changing it. If I let it go longer than 20-25k, it will turn black-ish(I did this a couple times, but rare), and I never want to see black oil in my engine -- ever.

My own oil after 8k miles ...



- I have seen drivers spent a lot of money on oil and oil products trying to get the most life from their engines. I used to do this too, until i did my own inframe,.. then I saw a clear picture that what I as doing was more than adequate as far as oil goes. The sad part, is a lot of those same fanatics about oil will let their EGR and other systems eat the engine alive from the inside out. Even better yet, I see them do bypass filters, synthetic, and extended oil changes, letting deposits build up in the cross-drillings, never giving it a second thought, then wondering why they have chewed through an overhead cam in only 400k miles.

I even harped on one guy about this about 3 or 4 times who was brainwashed to the whole extended, synthetic, sampling, bypass crap religiously, -- Now he is on his 3rd overhead cam in less than a million miles,.. and HE IS STILL CONVINCED IT IS AN ENGINE PROBLEM INSTEAD OF HIS SHEER IGNORANT PRACTICES!. -- Sad indeed,.. and I really thought as methodical as this guy was about keeping after it,.. he would prove me wrong for once. -- I clearly see where that went.

[Brock]

I was never a huge fan of rotella. I know far too much about oil to like it as a oil, there are far too many oils out there that are way better quality..... But this depends on what your doing and how your thinking. When I wanted to extend oil drains and run the best oils I ran mobil''s best full synthetic and I still ate my cam.

I then switched to rotella cause it's cheap as borscht and I'm changing my oil every 10,000 to 15,000 kilometers (or whenever it starts getting black) but now I'm buying Canadian tire oil cause rotella t4 is expensive.

I get a real warm and fuzzy feeling seeing clean oil in my diesel engine, she's running better then ever and getting better mileage then when I ran synthetic.

So in theory and in a lab and on paper, rotella may not be near as good as mobil 1 le 5w30 I was running, in real life I am seeing better results for the same overall cost.

Maybe my motor would be better off if I ran the synthetic and changed it as often as I change the rotella but that would be a rediculous amount of money and I don't think I need too, there are no contaminants in my oil as it is now.

[DKenworth]

Just giving an update on my issue with oil pressure..... it turns out to be an oil pressure sensor.

[Diesel_Pusher]

Was recently reading a Blog by SAE engineer 540RAT : Tech Facts No Myths...Motor Oil Engineering Test Data.
I spent about three hour on his site. Much, if not most, information
was about cars (small gas engines), but could be generally applied to large trucks.

The bit about oil additives was a eye opener

One was high levels of ZINC are not helpful and actually cause cam damage.

I wont be buying Royal Purple at a premium ever again.
A couple of the AmsOil products tested incredibly high in all categories.

Oil PSI is the resistance to flow, (New bearings). Lower PSI ( Thinner oil) with higher flow resulted in lower oil temps and less oil breakdown.

[Brock]

I'm not 100% positive on this but I seem to remember having the opposite effect when I switched my cat c15 from 15w40 to a 5w30, I remember the oil pressure dropping a bit but I also remember my truck was running hotter oil temps which was opposite of what all the fancy oil guys said it would do.

[Rawze]

(09-10-2018 )Diesel_Pusher Wrote:  Was recently reading a Blog by SAE engineer 540RAT : Tech Facts No Myths...Motor Oil Engineering Test Data.
I spent about three hour on his site. Much, if not most, information
was about cars (small gas engines), but could be generally applied to large trucks.

The bit about oil additives was a eye opener

One was high levels of ZINC are not helpful and actually cause cam damage.

I wont be buying Royal Purple at a premium ever again.
A couple of the AmsOil products tested incredibly high in all categories.

Oil PSI is the resistance to flow, (New bearings). Lower PSI ( Thinner oil) with higher flow resulted in lower oil temps and less oil breakdown.

Sounds like a bunch of BullS$it off the internet-rambo sites. For the ISX, on engine oils that use ZDDP as one of the primary wear inhibitors, the optimum is in the range of 1150 - 1450 ppm. More is BAD,.. less is BAD!.

I am also NOT a fan of over-priced oils like the brand you mentioned though, Rotella-T works just fine for me and my engine had less wear in it than anyone else I have seen with more expensive oils.

Using one of the top-3 easily availiable brands like Rotella, Delo, and Delvac,... I have never seen ANYONE WHATSOEVER with an engine that simply got worn out DUE TO ENGINE OIL ITSELF faster than ANY of those more expensive brands --- EVER!!! --- OTHER THINGS GO WRONG, NOT EXCESS WEAR FROM OIL ITSELF are the cause of every engine I have ever seen to have to be pulled apart and in-framed!.

* Excess soot problems -- carbon packing and wiped out cams or bearings.
* Not changing oil often enough -- Wiped out cams / excess soot problems.
* Not changing oil often enough and replacing it with a bypass oil filtration + synthetic + oil sampling -- Also wipes out the cams BECAUSE YOU DID NOT CHANGE THE OIL OFTEN ENOUGH.

* Not keeping after your enigne's EGR system to keep it from making excess soot or blocking up the DPF and exhaust -- Wiped out cams / carbon packing!.

* Driving a higher HP engine mostly BELOW 1500rpm its whole life, especially when climbing hills like that -- PREMATURE LINER FRETTING ISSUES.

* Bad delete programming -- All kinds of problems and pre-mature failures.

** even if you driving it well,.. maintain it and baby it during its whole life, you change oil based on fuel mileage + everything else you can do to extend its life --- EVENTUALLY SOMETHING IN THE HEAD WEARS OUT that has nothing whatsoever to do with your engine oil like injector cups, valve seats, etc.etc.etc. will get it --- long before you EVER have to start worrying about "which brand of oil is making less wear in the next 10 million miles. -- BECAUSE YOU AREN'T GOING TO MAKE IT THAT FAR WITHOUT A REBUILD OF THE ENGINE FOR ONE OF THE REASONS MENTIONED ABOVE --- EVER!


I have no idea why people stress and over-speculate about their engine oil like it is the cause of their problems. -- that should be the LEAST of someone's concerns,... the soot monster, keeping after the maint. on your truck that 90% of truck owners neglect until it is too late and FUEL MILEAGE MOST OF ALL should be the places you focus so much attention to.... Not being obsessed about your engine oil. That is mostly a waste of time.

-- Find something that simply works, easily available, does not involve a higher unnecessary cost, ... move on to more important things!.

[schISM]

(09-10-2018 )Brock Wrote:  I'm not 100% positive on this but I seem to remember having the opposite effect when I switched my cat c15 from 15w40 to a 5w30, I remember the oil pressure dropping a bit but I also remember my truck was running hotter oil temps which was opposite of what all the fancy oil guys said it would do.

Your SDP appeared to run hotter oil temps because the Accert Cats never used an oil temp sensor. The ecm calculated the temp using coolant/oil pressure. When it saw the coolant up to temp and the oil pressure down it calculated a higher oil temp based on 15w40 viscosity. 5w30 is way thin for a diesel even in the cold you guys get. IMO.

[Brock]

(09-10-2018 )schISM Wrote:  

(09-10-2018 )Brock Wrote:  I'm not 100% positive on this but I seem to remember having the opposite effect when I switched my cat c15 from 15w40 to a 5w30, I remember the oil pressure dropping a bit but I also remember my truck was running hotter oil temps which was opposite of what all the fancy oil guys said it would do.

Your SDP appeared to run hotter oil temps because the Accert Cats never used an oil temp sensor. The ecm calculated the temp using coolant/oil pressure. When it saw the coolant up to temp and the oil pressure down it calculated a higher oil temp based on 15w40 viscosity. 5w30 is way thin for a diesel even in the cold you guys get. IMO.

Good info, thank you!