Air flow vs. rad shroud

[Hammerhead]

(08-25-2018 )Rawze Wrote:  

(08-25-2018 )Hammerhead Wrote:  ...

Jeesh, I can't keep CAC's in this damn truck! I've had this truck since new, 12/09. The first CAC lasted 3 years, and since then it's been every 2 goddam years! Almost like clockwork.
...

make sure all your bushings are good and that things are not over tightened. That whole front structure needs to have a bit of give to it. Also when installing new, don't force any screws into their holes if they do not align up perfectly. Grind out the hole in the frame instead so that no stress is applied to the CAC or radiator.

Lastly, when opening your hood, don't let it slam open. This will kill a CAC in a hurry and I see lots of guys do this at the truck stops while shaking my head every time.

You also haul heavy. There is likely some twist in the frame when pushing things hard so make sure your lower front structure bushings are in good shape/not bound as well.

I always use new bushings when putting them in. I've actually found the OEM bushings are crap and don't last 6 months, so I use neoprene glad hand bushings IPO on the four collars. Four hook bushings come in the universal kit, and I only have 2. They never show wear, but I change them anyway.
I NEVER slam a hood, and I'd be right beside you shaking my head too when I see that.
This T800W rad and CAC is ridiculously wide, and I think that it's actually too wide. The C-500 uses the same rad, but vertical. They use a different CAC that won't work for me, and the sister company has many of them, and they just last forever. But they have the same trouble with the 2 WH's they have.
Because I'm usually under torque, twist is just a fact of my life. I've just gotta live with it or find a different truck.
This stupid CAC on this thing is my version of the Prostar A/C. It's the flaw that is my Achilles heel unfortunately.

[Rawze]

(08-25-2018 )Hammerhead Wrote:  I always use new bushings when putting them in. I've actually found the OEM bushings are crap and don't last 6 months, so I use neoprene glad hand bushings IPO on the four collars. Four hook bushings come in the universal kit, and I only have 2. They never show wear, but I change them anyway.
I NEVER slam a hood, and I'd be right beside you shaking my head too when I see that.
This T800W rad and CAC is ridiculously wide, and I think that it's actually too wide. The C-500 uses the same rad, but vertical. They use a different CAC that won't work for me, and the sister company has many of them, and they just last forever. But they have the same trouble with the 2 WH's they have.
Because I'm usually under torque, twist is just a fact of my life. I've just gotta live with it or find a different truck.
This stupid CAC on this thing is my version of the Prostar A/C. It's the flaw that is my Achilles heel unfortunately.

Maybe an added custom bracket of sorts that relieves stress?

Perhaps filling the edges where the fins meet the body with some semi-flexible epoxy to strengthen it at the joints where it tends to start leaking?. I did this a long time ago on a car radiator that would not stop cracking then leaking after replacement. It finally stopped it.

[Brock]

I know the response I'll get but look into it maybe. I've got a Duralite Eliminator series on my tri drive and so far it's been real solid, I've beat the living piss out of this truck over a year with it and just pressure tested it...... not a drop leaking.

it's their oem spec cac, not the restrictive one everyone hates here although just because it's a Duralite i know then bias opinions will come. I bought mine at western star for a good price, might be worth exploring.

I've spent thousands of dollars on welders repairing my truck this year alone (I've really beat the crap out of this old girl) and been running stupid hot turbo temps so the fact that this thing hasn't skipped a beat, says something to me.

[Volvo8873]

I ended up replacing the radiator myself back on labor day weekend and have been running with out the shroud since. It does run cooler now and have not had a problem with overheating ever. The only difference was when the fan comes on for cooling down after a hard pull uphill it takes an extra 20 or 30 second to bring the temp down. I may do this on my other Volvo with an ISX but only cut the bottom half off.