2013 ISX 15 Fault Code 3165

[kozakvod]

Problem: Stop Engine light comes on. By the time I could safely get to the shoulder the truck had shut off.

I turned off the key, waited maybe 30 seconds or so, turned the key to on position, it ran through it’s diagnostics, no stop engine light, started truck.

I checked for what was the fault code, 3165. Not waiting to sit on interstate I put it in gear and drove into Las Cruces. When I finally got back on highway I noticed it was blowing a whole bunch of blue smoke that finally did clear. I notice that it will do this if it’s in a regen mode in idle and then I [attachment=5365]start driving again.

So now Im sitting at the TA, of course, Peterbilt is closed here on Sunday.

I’m currently idling and it is doing a regen. What suggestions do any of you have? It says it’s a temp sensor etc on SCR. Should I just sit tight until tomorrow morning and let Peterbilt here take a look or might I be able to keep driving? Considering it shut me down before I’m a bit worried to keep running down the road.

Check engine light is still on but it did complete it’s regen and by all appearances is running fine.

[Rawze]

Sounds to me like you may have been driving it against a check engine light already? ... red stop light for emissions does not usually come on with that fault unless you were ignoring other problems for a while.

* When is the last time you did a thorough EGR-Tune-Up, inspected things, etc?. I know you have mentioned it in the past.

* have you taken an el-cheapo temp gun at any point and verified the temp reading(s) that are shown in Insite?

* When is the last time you inspected the face of the SCR element?. This can cause high SCR outlet temps too. Just recently had someone over for just this problem: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid42685

* What do you expect the stealershit to do besides rape you for all you are worth, tell you that you need new turbo, new DPF, new SCR can, and about 10 other really expensive tings? then send you down the road a few hundred miles a few thousand $$$ raped dollars later,.. only for it to do it again?

* What steps have you been taking to prevent such problems to begin with in the last few months?

* When is the last time you replaced the air cleaner element? - The crank case filter?, had the CAC and engine pressure tested?

* How many Miles, and some more history of the truck, operation, etc. would help too.


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higher than normal exhaust temps can usually be from ...
* dirty CAC unit.
* Clogged air filter, or clogged up crank case filter (throwing the combustion off).
* Mis-reading IMAP or other EGR sensors.
* inefficiency/restriction in the EGR cooler (old/sooted up badly).
* an egr circuit leak.
* an exhaust leak (during regen cycles).
* mis-reading egr sensors or stuck egr valve.

* clogged up exhaust piping (ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...07#pid1807 )

kinda points in the direction towards these types of things anyways.

Remember .. those cans are all passive. It is engine problems, or clogging due to engine problems that make then not run right.

[kozakvod]

Rawze thank you for your response, see my comments below.
...
I have a current load on that needs to get to Lubbock (400 miles) and then I'm 320 miles to the house. I have zero issues in doing work myself and would certainly rather NOT be here and rather on my way east toward the house.

One other note worth mentioning. Because I have to idle a lot during my loading due to PTO hydralics at times the REGEN will kick in while I'm in idle mode. If still in the mode when I leave, it will discharge a blueish lookiing smoke for a 1/4 to 1/2 mile as I'm going through the gears then it clears up/out. I never see any smoke any other time. Today after it shut my engine down and I started out from the shoulder building to highway speed, blueish smoke again. Also, my fuel economy was in the toilet during those last 15 miles over here. Perhaps it derated me? Not sure.

If I could feel responsibly[/color] sure I could get it home, I'd go, I just don't know what the best course of action is at this point.

[Rawze]

almost sounds to me like you have valve guide seal issues too?


u have an adapter and insite? -- If so, insrtall CT and pull the program out of the ecm, e-mail it to me and I can shut off the derates and shutdowns long enough for you to limp it home.

That is certainly no proper fix, you won;t be able to keep driving it like that without harming the engine, but will get you that few hundred miles more if u drive it gently to get delivered and home. Keeps you from loosing money on it needlessly at the stealersh$it .. at least you can get it somewhere so you can take things apart.

[kozakvod]

(08-25-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  almost sounds to me like you have valve guide seal issues too?


u have an adapter and insite?

Rawze I do not. I have decided to purchase the software but until I can get back to
Dallas Im in limbo. Just need to get home.

That blueish smoke only shows up when moving through the gears during an active passive regen while idling.

[Rawze]

(08-25-2019 )kozakvod Wrote:  

(08-25-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  almost sounds to me like you have valve guide seal issues too?


u have an adapter and insite?

Rawze I do not. I have decided to purchase the software but until I can get back to
Dallas Im in limbo. Just need to get home.

That blueish smoke only shows up when moving through the gears during an active passive regen while idling.

the importance of having the right tools handy saves your bacon.

[kozakvod]

Considering check engine light is off and fault is not active, do you think I can make it in or is it most likely to just come back before I get there?

[kozakvod]

(08-25-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  the importance of having the right tools handy saves your bacon.

I get that. And today as I sit here that’s not my reality.

[Rawze]

(08-25-2019 )kozakvod Wrote:  Considering check engine light is off and fault is not active, do you think I can make it in or is it most likely to just come back before I get there?

re-read my post(s) above, i think I was still typing it in when you replied.


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without insute, you are better off not chancing it. - With insite, at least you can reset the derate every 200 miles or so if you got into real trouble. Without it, you are at the mercy of the rip-you-off network of nitwits.