2015 cm2350 tuning??

[Rawze]

(12-06-2019 )Icon900 Wrote:  ... w900
... fuel economy
...

Those 2 things are not compatible!.

I surely hope like hell you got that thing because you have some special application for it,.. because if you're hauling dryvan/reefer, etc. kind of competitive freight,.. you have shot yourself in the foot for having it.

If you're loosing your arsse because of piss poor fuel mileage, then for the life of me I can't understand WHY someone would buy such a fuel sucking pig of a truck?

What is the gearing?

What mods, driving styles, and things have you done to reduce fuel consumption / operating costs?

[Icon900]

(12-06-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  

(12-06-2019 )Icon900 Wrote:  ... w900
... fuel economy
...

Those 2 things are not compatible!.

I surely hope like hell you got that thing because you have some special application for it,.. because if you're hauling dryvan/reefer, etc. kind of competitive freight,.. you have shot yourself in the foot for having it.

If you're loosing your arsse because of piss poor fuel mileage, then for the life of me I can't understand WHY someone would buy such a fuel sucking pig of a truck?

What is the gearing?

What mods, driving styles, and things have you done to reduce fuel consumption / operating costs?

Hey rawze, yeah iv had the overhead ran and set a couple months ago and fuel pump rebuilt at same time. I have not done a injector leak down test But will look into doing so. The truck has 380,000 miles and has 3:36 rears I know a horrible ratio I drive in 17th gear at 60 to 65 and keep my boost under 20 at all times. I pull a tank on a dedicated semi local route. Just looking for some more mpg out of it.

[Rawze]

(12-06-2019 )Icon900 Wrote:  Hey rawze, yeah iv had the overhead ran and set a couple months ago and fuel pump rebuilt at same time. I have not done a injector leak down test But will look into doing so. The truck has 380,000 miles and has 3:36 rears I know a horrible ratio I drive in 17th gear at 60 to 65 and keep my boost under 20 at all times. I pull a tank on a dedicated semi local route. Just looking for some more mpg out of it.

I would not expect much more than 5 or 6 out of it, it geared like that and those speeds.

[Icon900]

(12-06-2019 )Rawze Wrote:  

(12-06-2019 )Icon900 Wrote:  Hey rawze, yeah iv had the overhead ran and set a couple months ago and fuel pump rebuilt at same time. I have not done a injector leak down test But will look into doing so. The truck has 380,000 miles and has 3:36 rears I know a horrible ratio I drive in 17th gear at 60 to 65 and keep my boost under 20 at all times. I pull a tank on a dedicated semi local route. Just looking for some more mpg out of it.

I would not expect much more than 5 or 6 out of it, it geared like that and those speeds.

So you don’t think some kind of ecm tuning would be beneficial to me? I’m averaging 5 right now.

[Magard]

17th gear is overdrive and under drive at the same time. Not a efficient gear. What tire size.

[Magard]

(12-06-2019 )Magard Wrote:  17th gear is overdrive and under drive at the same time. Not a efficient gear. What tire size.

Main box is overdrive. Splitter is underdrive to make 17th gear. A lot of people don’t realize that.

[Icon900]

(12-06-2019 )Magard Wrote:  17th gear is overdrive and under drive at the same time. Not a efficient gear. What tire size.

24.5 lo pro

[Magard]

22.5 low pro would allow 18th gear at those speeds more fuel efficient tires available. Tires can make one mpg difference from one extreme to the next.

[Rawze]

If you do all the things to it to make it more fuel eficient, you might be able to get mid 6's out of it.

* Are you driving it by its boost and pyro gauges? -- does it even have those gauges?. Keeping boost below 15 psi no matter what, and using higher rpm instead of more torque when you need to climb hills, etc.

* Switching to some fuel efficient low-pro 22.5's.

* Gear it 3.79's or perhaps 3.90's. - This would make a big difference too.

* Driving it below 62 mph no matter what. - This would be just as important.

* Learning how to drive it better in the right rpm and gear ranges based on terrain, and weights, and staying as far away from that lazy-man cruise control as possible.

* Setting the engine to 450HP, 1720 torque to go along with the better gear ratios.

* Making the emissions system more lienient and forgiving + use less EGR gas through some custom programming after all the other stuff is done.

* Pressurize the whole enigne up, find all its leaks, intake, egr, exhaust, and fixing them.

* Performing Rail pressure and leak tests to ensure the the fuel system, injectors and rail are in very good shape.

* Making sure the overhead valve adjustment has been done, and keeping after it every 250k miles.

* Replacing IMAP and other sensors, and pulling apart the EGR cooler, cleaning it out after 400k miles, + pulling the DOC/DPF and baking them, + SCR element inspection, Replacing NOx sensors, DPF Delta-P, Cleaning crossover tubes, Cleaning DEF injector, replacing DEF screen .. etc.etc.etc.

* Replacing ther guts of the high pressure fuel pump every 400k miles.

== This might get it into the mid 6's, maybe low 7 if your seriously disciplined in your driving habits, but it will never come close to competing with a modern aero truck. the problem is that the return on all these investments will be difficult to get back ... because the front end of that truck if fighting you every mile that truck moves.


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Theory of the day ...
-- even a child knows that when playing a racing car video game, they are not likely to choose the car that has the slowest acceleration rates, and has the worst racing specs. -- Why people choose the worst brand/type of truck not properly suited for their operations, simply because "it looks cool" or "has resale value" .. and then complaining about why they are not making the profits they expected, is the same damn thing!.