New Turbo & Actuator, 3 miles down , new camshaft??

[Lonestar10]

very short oil change intervals. 3000-5000max will help clean it out

[Waterloo]

And pull that crankcase filter, would be interested to hear what shape it is in. Many times it is rarely if ever changed out.

[Rawze]

MOST PEOPLE would not buy a used house without having the foundation and plumbing checked,.. and without checking to see if the walls are not completely rotted out, mouldy, and infested with termites. Anyone can put on a nice paint job and clean it up, then claim its in good shape .. that is what the seller is going to do. ... Unfortunately, you seemed to have bought that house and never looked at it very well past the paint job, then moved into it and turned a blind eye, later wondering why the front porch just fell off it.

It happens more often than not, unfortunately in trucking. People have no idea or clue what they are getting into, and that is what gets them. this thread is turning out to be a fine example of this,.. It is a repeating cycle on here, especially this forum, as most people do not research enough to find this place until they are where you have found yourself. Am I picking on you? -- no, not actually,.. I AM however picking on the situation to drive its importance home. I hate seeing it over and over on here, like others have mentioned... -- it is severely unfortunate, can completely be avoided, but hopefully others will find it and learn from this too.

If he has had that thing for only 2 months... I am wondering how in the hell it ended up on the roads without all the proper adjustments, inspections, and services done to it? - that thing would have been half torn apart in my driveway, especially if that truck chassis has a million+ on it .. That should have been a no-brainer .. pull everything apart and inspect the hell out of it internally and externally, all U-joints, driveline, backlash in rear ends, hub bearings re-torqued, torque-arms inspected, mounts, bushings, shocks,... all the front end, drag link, tie-rod, king pins, all inspected with dial indicators for "in-spec" and safety, ++ entire engine pressurized for air, egr, and exhaust piping leaks, head pressurized to see if the valves are leaky, injector tests, over head cam re-adjustments and cam inspections, etc.etc.etc on an old engine like that.. the list is long for a truck that age!. WAAAY before ever calling it road worthy. -- trucking ain't no game of "buy it and drive it" ... Trucks do not get sold that are still making money, and have not yet been driven into the ground and neglected to hell and beyond ... they just don't!

Those cam lobes have been bad for more than 100,000 miles,.. that kind of abuse and neglect takes a years+ or more of someone seriously not giving 2 cents about their truck or engine.

-- start watching the rebuild series.. learn how to remove and re-install that cam.

REGISTER THAT ENGINE on quickserv.com for all the manuals and repair procedures you need .. its absolutely free!.

-- INVEST in a windows 7 or 8 laptop and get a chineese inline-6 off e-bay and Insite... GET THE TOOLS NEEDED to make that engine computer (ECM) work for you, not against you.

like others said .. pull the pan off it,.. inspect the liners from the bottom up,.. pressurize the coolant system to 20-PSI and let it over night, have someone turn engine over by hand next morning and listen and check for gurgling / signs of coolant down along the piston rings as it moves .. + all the other things they are recommending. -- KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT -- NEVER GUESS AT IT .. IT WILL ONLY LAY DOWN ON YOU WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT TO!

EVERY SINGLE BIT of what you are now having to do .. should have been done BEFORE IT EVER HIT THE ROADS when you purchased it.

LASTLY.. if it was inframed ... it is 60% likely to have been done a complete s$it job of it,.. especially if it was done at an OEM cummins shop or Stearlers$it. -< I would have been scared of it as soon as someone mentioned it had been inframed.

AND if there is any doubt about what I think about how bad those certified stealers$its really are, .. then give This Other Thread a very thorough read-thru ... about everything that can go wrong with this guys $40,000 in-frame, only 80,000 miles on it before he had to do it again in my driveway himself a second time, did.

[Chamberpains]

The procedure to do the cam is on https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html It's completely free. Use your Engine serial number (ESN) and sign up. The feeler gauges and torque wrench and sockets can be had at any auto parts store or place that sells tools. The 3/4" ratchet to bar the engine over to run the overhead can be a hard find in a pinch. But most harbor freight or chinesium tool sales place has a cheapo ratchet for sale. Compression is high on these engines so barring them over with something small is not gonna happen. You'll need a pipe to get leverage to bar it over. Coolant pressure tester kits can be had at most auto parts stores.

As far as checking the bottom end (must be done 1st to find out if it's worth it to do the cam) and possibly doing a cam in a parking lot in the middle of winter, well, old school or not, you're taking on a tall task. You'll need a heat source (torpedo heater) or something of the sort and some kind of make shift wind stop to keep dust out and to hold some of the heat in. Oil is gonna be thick your gonna need to get it some what warm to get it out and pour the new stuff in. Your hands are gonna need to be warm enough so you dont bang and drop the new cam in to the bearings when installing it and also to run the overhead.

You'll need probably a minimum of a 2nd person to help you get the hood off and radiator out. If you absolutely don't have a 2nd hand and your truck is made right, some of them you can undo the hood catches, them flip the hood as far forward as it will let you and rest it on a trash can or something of the sort. Then you can begin disassembling the front structure and pulling the CAC, roll the AC condenser out of the way and pull the radiator out piece by piece. I've done a lot of work by my lonesome so it all can be done. It's just super hard and really dangerous when you're frozen. You can f$ck yourself up real quick pulling a muscle or falling or pinching something important when you're cold. Then its game over and possibly end of a career. Just keep that in mind if you're feeling froggy about this.

Working outside in the cold you're definitely gonna be taking up 2 full days start to finish. A battery powered impact and a couple of extra batteries and charger will help with disassembly. The cold kills the batteries quick so you'll need to charge them a lot. Everything will be a pain in the ass and no joke, take 3 time longer than you think. If I lived any where close to Missouri I'd offer to help. Unfortunately for you I'm on the east coast for the week.

[Mattman]

Maybe I missed it, but where is home? Do you think you can limp the truck home to work on it? Like already mentioned going to be a major ordeal in a parking lot.

[bookerjt]

(12-26-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote:  The procedure to do the cam is on https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html It's completely free. Use your Engine serial number (ESN) and sign up. The feeler gauges and torque wrench and sockets can be had at any auto parts store or place that sells tools. The 3/4" ratchet to bar the engine over to run the overhead can be a hard find in a pinch. But most harbor freight or chinesium tool sales place has a cheapo ratchet for sale. Compression is high on these engines so barring them over with something small is not gonna happen. You'll need a pipe to get leverage to bar it over. Coolant pressure tester kits can be had at most auto parts stores.

As far as checking the bottom end (must be done 1st to find out if it's worth it to do the cam) and possibly doing a cam in a parking lot in the middle of winter, well, old school or not, you're taking on a tall task. You'll need a heat source (torpedo heater) or something of the sort and some kind of make shift wind stop to keep dust out and to hold some of the heat in. Oil is gonna be thick your gonna need to get it some what warm to get it out and pour the new stuff in. Your hands are gonna need to be warm enough so you dont bang and drop the new cam in to the bearings when installing it and also to run the overhead.

You'll need probably a minimum of a 2nd person to help you get the hood off and radiator out. If you absolutely don't have a 2nd hand and your truck is made right, some of them you can undo the hood catches, them flip the hood as far forward as it will let you and rest it on a trash can or something of the sort. Then you can begin disassembling the front structure and pulling the CAC, roll the AC condenser out of the way and pull the radiator out piece by piece. I've done a lot of work by my lonesome so it all can be done. It's just super hard and really dangerous when you're frozen. You can f$ck yourself up real quick pulling a muscle or falling or pinching something important when you're cold. Then its game over and possibly end of a career. Just keep that in mind if you're feeling froggy about this.

Working outside in the cold you're definitely gonna be taking up 2 full days start to finish. A battery powered impact and a couple of extra batteries and charger will help with disassembly. The cold kills the batteries quick so you'll need to charge them a lot. Everything will be a pain in the ass and no joke, take 3 time longer than you think. If I lived any where close to Missouri I'd offer to help. Unfortunately for you I'm on the east coast for the week.

All Points you said are good I have torpedoed heaters a small generator to charge batteries for the battery operated impact wrenches and I have a helper to go with me I know that it's going to be very difficult the truck is a 2010 Peterbilt 386

[bookerjt]

(12-26-2019 )Mattman Wrote:  Maybe I missed it, but where is home? Do you think you can limp the truck home to work on it? Like already mentioned going to be a major ordeal in a parking lot.

Washington State

[Chamberpains]

Where is the truck at? Town? You may get lucky and have a kind soul from the forum here be local to the truck and give you hand.

[Magard]

You realize the whole front end has to come off the truck right? Then the front over of the engine. How are you gonna keep from getting parts stolen while working on it.