Cm2250 oil pressure numbers???

[Waterloo]

(07-18-2016 )jimeneztrans84 Wrote:  Unilevers suggested bearings and pump asap for anything under 20 psi.... Mechanic suggested the same. Tmrw it's going to the shop. 1,500 for oem parts and labor. I rather spend that then later on inframe. So far since January that I've had the truck I've done egr valve, nox sensor, cleaned dpf, overhead, 1 injector, switched over to 2 cylinder pump , and now this!! It's never ending. Oh and I currently have engine code 1911 too that needs to be figured out also.

Roll the new bearings in and replace the oil pump... I know what you are going through, of all the trucks I have ever owned, this one is just a cursed thing. Every week something is going wrong... I have replaced everything except the electrical harnesses and the bearings, and I still cannot get it out of the driveway... Taking it to the shop tomorrow to install another new turbo.

And yes, use the Sta Lube, the GL5 in your motor per Rawze. One thing I would do is get in there and do a good cleaning out of the soot... Then get with someone that can help with the mandate, Dr ISX is there in Vegas, I would contact him and pick his brain. I would do this before you lose the head or worse. From what I have seen over the past three years with these EGR/DPF/SCR trucks is that they are built to be disposable. The warranty runs out and you throw it away, 400,000 to 500,000 seems to be the magic number and then it is passed off to guys like us. They run fine, and then the disposal process starts, at our wallets. It is all downhill from there, unless you can get right on it and eliminate the real problem right off the bat. Just my opinion.

One other thing, start thinking about replacing your crank shaft damper. They are good for roughly 500,000 miles and then they wear out. There is a viscous fluid in them that keeps everything in balance, when it fails, starts hardening, you start losing components like your alternator, pulleys, tensioners, AC compressor, etc., and cannot be good for those new bearings you are going to install... Go with the cummins OEM one, they run around $600 or so. Mine was $635 plus 3 hours labor. The radiator and CAC do not need to be removed, at least on the ProStar.

[jimeneztrans84]

Ok so I just did oil pump and bearings. Bearings were barely worn out but caught them at a good time. But the oil pressure at hot idle is still between 15-18 psi. Is this normal?

[Hammerhead]

(07-19-2016 )jimeneztrans84 Wrote:  Ok so I just did oil pump and bearings. Bearings were barely worn out but caught them at a good time. But the oil pressure at hot idle is still between 15-18 psi. Is this normal?

When I first got this truck that was barely where I was. I complained profusely about it, and was told and even talked to someone in Columbus about it. KW, Cummins (local dear), and Columbus all said I was "in spec" they all agreed I was on the low end of the spectrum, but still in it so they wouldn't do anything bout it. I ran it that way for years, hating it.
I finally had enough, and learning some info from here, along with some previous knowledge, and shimmed the relief spring in my pump.
I couldn't be happier!
I will be switching back to Rotella and adding gear lube, and will see what the pressure numbers are when I do that after my next trip.
From there, I will be fine tuning, MY ideal will be to run no lower than 45psi at 210* operating temp at 1500rpm.
For now, I'm watching very carefully that the current increase I've made doesn't take out any seals or such.
The post of how I did it and the results and resulting discussions is here http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=601

[jimeneztrans84]

I asked my mechanic about shimiming the pump and he said it might take out the seals...so I'll just live with it being low psi at idle. As long as I know I have a new pump..

[Hammerhead]

I wouldn't.
I didn't.
I won't ever again.
But that's me, it's YOUR truck and YOU decide, not your "mechanic".
The more I learn, the more I realize the vast majority of "mechanics" just spout off "what the book/OEM says". Read my signature. The more I learn, the more I realize that the vast majority of mechanics, and most now want to be referred to as Technitions even though they couldn't technition themselves out of a wet paper bag, not only don't ASK WHY, they don't even know WHY, they just know 'cause I/book/OEM said so...
Once again, it YOUR truck and YOU decide, but this is something I can assure you of...IF I develop a problem, leak, or situation due to shimming and increasing my oil pressure, I will post the results immediately!!! Because IF I shared BAD information I feel it is my duty & resposibility to correct it ASAP.
Once again, YOUR truck, YOU DECIDE. Not your mechanic, he has no vested interest.

***FULL DISCLOSURE***
I have owned this truck since new. It went in service Jan 6, 2009 and I just shimmed my oil pump about 10 days ago. Let me be clear, I REGRET not doing it sooner!
I also have no vested interest in YOUR truck, I just don't want to see you have bigger issues down the road.

[Billdozer2]

(07-19-2016 )jimeneztrans84 Wrote:  Ok so I just did oil pump and bearings. Bearings were barely worn out but caught them at a good time. But the oil pressure at hot idle is still between 15-18 psi. Is this normal?

Since I have the same engine as you, I decided to look it up and see what Cummins Corporate says.

According to Cummins Quickserve, their "spec" is no lower than 15psi when idling and the oil is at 200 degrees. So, according to Cummins, that is normal. But, they also think soot is normal and in frames at 500k are normal.

I'm floating right around the 20psi mark when hot idling on old oil, but I plan on shimming the pump to bump the pressure up about 5psi. I doubt 5psi with harm any seals. I'd have that warm and fuzzy feeling if my oil pressure was around 25psi when hot idling and around the 40psi mark when driving.

[jimeneztrans84]

(07-17-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  15 PSI is the bare minimum required oil pressure at idle from my understanding. Personally, I would like to see it up at 18+ at idle and that is what it is on my CM871.


I do run a gallon of gear lube though too, and that helps it a lot in this regard, especially in hotter weather. It is also why I use a gallon of 85/140 instead of 80/90 in the mid summer months.

So 85/140 for summer months and 80/90 the rest?

[T680]

I used Both 85/140 and 80/90 The Wal-Mart Blue plastic gallons, and have not Seen Any difference once The oil îs HOT in The cm2350 that i own.

[jimeneztrans84]

So there's no difference on the weight?