Isx 2350 485hp. Surges has no power

[Waterloo]

Just because there are no ceramic plungers does not mean it has been rebuilt. Cummins went to the steel plungers with the 2250 I believe, when they had out their technical service bulletin and replaced the ceramic with steel. Me, you have it off, rebuild it, as those steel parts still fail.

[LLT]

(03-02-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  Just because there are no ceramic plungers does not mean it has been rebuilt. Cummins went to the steel plungers with the 2250 I believe, when they had out their technical service bulletin and replaced the ceramic with steel. Me, you have it off, rebuild it, as those steel parts still fail.

Oh yeah, I’ll rebuilt it as soon as I have money for it. I was just making sure it wasn’t going to damage my engine with the ceramic.

[Lonestar10]

ied rebuild it just for the simple fact that the lifter is scoured even if i had rebuilt it 2 days ago if i pulled it apart and found that ied rebuild again. scouring on the roller and the sides is not good in my book on a precision part.

[tree98]

(03-02-2020 )LLT Wrote:  

(03-02-2020 )Waterloo Wrote:  Just because there are no ceramic plungers does not mean it has been rebuilt. Cummins went to the steel plungers with the 2250 I believe, when they had out their technical service bulletin and replaced the ceramic with steel. Me, you have it off, rebuild it, as those steel parts still fail.

Oh yeah, I’ll rebuilt it as soon as I have money for it. I was just making sure it wasn’t going to damage my engine with the ceramic.

Maybe you'll have the money for a new motor before you have the money to rebuild the pump. Oh wait, I don't think that's making sense. aahh what do I know??

[JimT]

I agree with the other guys here. Don't wait, rebuild it. The 2250 and some early 2350's had ceramic plungers. But many 2350's had the steel plungers from the factory. There are stories on this forum of people with updated steel plungers just like you that still suffered pump failure. It's from all these stories that a rebuild interval of about 400,000-450,000 miles was determined. Your pictures show some scuff marks which indicates there's already wear. It may not fail tomorrow, but at some point it will. Even more likely because it needs to work harder to keep the fuel pressure up because of the leak in the system.

As for the leak, if you can't find any cause in the plumbing then you'll want to start looking at the injectors.

[Lonestar10]

This is my Profit Loss for last year. i was driving a truck that averaged 4.7MPG doing flatbed and my truck got put on a hook once due to a lost bearing in my fan hub i did ok as i replaced failure parts before they failed except that one and it bit me for about 2grand for the tow and fix.

the only thing missing from this is Taxes, my 24,000 salary, and truck trailer payments which is about another 15,000 a year.

i started as an owner op in Sept 2018 with 3,000 in the bank after putting my down payments on truck and trailer. i have been frugal i haven't purchased any new vehicles i dont go out to the bar every weekend. i actually gave one of my vehicles to my grandmother to drive so she could get away from leasing vehicles as social security is almost worthless. i paid to regravel my parents 1/4mile long driveway as i park there, paid 1/2 of their new $3500 garage door as my '15 Mustang GT takes up a space in their garage and as of right now i have above 30,000 in the bank

i spent extra i made on replacing wear parts on my truck as i didnt want to have any down time while also building a "newer truck or overhaul" surplus.

as you can see my maintenance was over 50,000 on the truck the funny part i only paid 40,000 for it i could have paid the loan off and ied say 75% of the items i replaced i didnt have to i chose to for peice of mind. if you cant be frugal and do this its not worth being an owner op as you can make the same money as a company driver you just give up your freedom and i would happily do that then be stressed because i cant afford 500 in parts to rebuilt a pump that can cause a 35,000-50,000 expense.

i spend every weekend at home unless i choose to stay out, every holiday at home take time off whenever i damn well please i would have never gone into owner op if i couldnt make as much money as a company driver + have all my freedom to as i please and be able to basically slam down a check from almost every single catastrophic failure that can happen.

So unless you get into a gig like rawze where he runs slow yeah but his mileage is through the roof and he has a paid off truck that he has the knowledge and the balls to do any type of work the truck needs along with having great support structure from Ms S and Mr D along with only being a few minutes from Mr Hagg so his business can easily be successful most dont have that and are way to scared to go further than maybe a couple hr job on their truck vs a couple day/week inframe project.

other than running the way Rawze does and as he says you can run your truck hard to make pennies and with his truck and the way he operates he can come in any day run less miles cut your throat on rates and still take home more money. the only other option is to get out of the box/refer market into something somewhat more specialized requiring more skills more knowledge you wont make it far. but being frugal and not spending tons of money where its not needed and offers no return will help

new parts list off the top of my head..
Head, Injectors, Air Compressor, Rear Ends new not reman, Steers XDN2s, Fuel/Timing Actuators, Fuel Shutoff, IFSM rebuilt/cleaned out, 1 Ujoint, 1 Hanger Bearing, Steering Linkage, Radiator, CAC, AC Thermistors/dryer, APU alternator, APU Belt, APU AC compressor, APU AC Lines, APU AC high pressure switch, Front Main Seal, Damper, Crank Pulley, Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Davco 382, New Aeroquip Fuel lines, Trans Air Cooler, Injector cam gear hold down, Thermostat, IMAP sensor, Exh Backpressure sensor, EGR cross over Pipe, Cattle Guard after a deer hit, Batteries, APU Case, Coolant hoses "silicone", Bunk HVAC Fan and resistor, Espar Heater "China Model", Hood Hinge Bushings, Charge air Boots, all piping to turbo and air boxes on both sides of hood, air filters. might have missed a few things... thats all in 1.5 years as an O/O


.....i think i just had a Rawze tangent just with less capital letters....oy i need to work more or take a vacation.

[tree98]

$50K in maintenance is off the chart. Hopefully this year you have only $2k-$3k. Otherwise your better off buying new. All that maintenance comes with a lot of down time and therefore loss of revenue.

[LLT]

(03-02-2020 )JimT Wrote:  I agree with the other guys here. Don't wait, rebuild it. The 2250 and some early 2350's had ceramic plungers. But many 2350's had the steel plungers from the factory. There are stories on this forum of people with updated steel plungers just like you that still suffered pump failure. It's from all these stories that a rebuild interval of about 400,000-450,000 miles was determined. Your pictures show some scuff marks which indicates there's already wear. It may not fail tomorrow, but at some point it will. Even more likely because it needs to work harder to keep the fuel pressure up because of the leak in the system.

As for the leak, if you can't find any cause in the plumbing then you'll want to start looking at the injectors.

Oh, I didn’t know this type was also that dangerous. I get what you guys mean and yeah them marks don’t give me any confidence. Plungers, rollers and gasket should do it right?

[LLT]

(03-02-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  This is my Profit Loss for last year. i was driving a truck that averaged 4.7MPG doing flatbed and my truck got put on a hook once due to a lost bearing in my fan hub i did ok as i replaced failure parts before they failed except that one and it bit me for about 2grand for the tow and fix.

the only thing missing from this is Taxes, my 24,000 salary, and truck trailer payments which is about another 15,000 a year.

i started as an owner op in Sept 2018 with 3,000 in the bank after putting my down payments on truck and trailer. i have been frugal i haven't purchased any new vehicles i dont go out to the bar every weekend. i actually gave one of my vehicles to my grandmother to drive so she could get away from leasing vehicles as social security is almost worthless. i paid to regravel my parents 1/4mile long driveway as i park there, paid 1/2 of their new $3500 garage door as my '15 Mustang GT takes up a space in their garage and as of right now i have above 30,000 in the bank

i spent extra i made on replacing wear parts on my truck as i didnt want to have any down time while also building a "newer truck or overhaul" surplus.

as you can see my maintenance was over 50,000 on the truck the funny part i only paid 40,000 for it i could have paid the loan off and ied say 75% of the items i replaced i didnt have to i chose to for peice of mind. if you cant be frugal and do this its not worth being an owner op as you can make the same money as a company driver you just give up your freedom and i would happily do that then be stressed because i cant afford 500 in parts to rebuilt a pump that can cause a 35,000-50,000 expense.

i spend every weekend at home unless i choose to stay out, every holiday at home take time off whenever i damn well please i would have never gone into owner op if i couldnt make as much money as a company driver + have all my freedom to as i please and be able to basically slam down a check from almost every single catastrophic failure that can happen.

So unless you get into a gig like rawze where he runs slow yeah but his mileage is through the roof and he has a paid off truck that he has the knowledge and the balls to do any type of work the truck needs along with having great support structure from Ms S and Mr D along with only being a few minutes from Mr Hagg so his business can easily be successful most dont have that and are way to scared to go further than maybe a couple hr job on their truck vs a couple day/week inframe project.

other than running the way Rawze does and as he says you can run your truck hard to make pennies and with his truck and the way he operates he can come in any day run less miles cut your throat on rates and still take home more money. the only other option is to get out of the box/refer market into something somewhat more specialized requiring more skills more knowledge you wont make it far. but being frugal and not spending tons of money where its not needed and offers no return will help

new parts list off the top of my head..
Head, Injectors, Air Compressor, Rear Ends new not reman, Steers XDN2s, Fuel/Timing Actuators, Fuel Shutoff, IFSM rebuilt/cleaned out, 1 Ujoint, 1 Hanger Bearing, Steering Linkage, Radiator, CAC, AC Thermistors/dryer, APU alternator, APU Belt, APU AC compressor, APU AC Lines, APU AC high pressure switch, Front Main Seal, Damper, Crank Pulley, Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Davco 382, New Aeroquip Fuel lines, Trans Air Cooler, Injector cam gear hold down, Thermostat, IMAP sensor, Exh Backpressure sensor, EGR cross over Pipe, Cattle Guard after a deer hit, Batteries, APU Case, Coolant hoses "silicone", Bunk HVAC Fan and resistor, Espar Heater "China Model", Hood Hinge Bushings, Charge air Boots, all piping to turbo and air boxes on both sides of hood, air filters. might have missed a few things... thats all in 1.5 years as an O/O


.....i think i just had a Rawze tangent just with less capital letters....oy i need to work more or take a vacation.

I switch companies and I still have to receive my first payment over a month of paying bills and fuel got me kind of drain. But the biggest part was that I thought it was way more money to rebuild it. I hear what you all are saying and believe me that is the reason I decided to post here so real advice from real people
Thanks to all of ya.