ISB 6.7 crankcase pressure fault code

[Ryda]

Hello everyone, new to the forum, and I operate a straight truck as opposed to a tractor. I have a 2012 frtlnr with the cummins isb 6.7. Purchased a year ago with 137,000(or so) miles and currently at 223,000. There's a back story to this problem but it is very detailed.......current issue is fault code spn 101 on the dash, can't recall what the code is in insite. I recently cleaned up my egr valve and cooler, replaced oil cooler as a result of oil in reservoir. Prior to this I did replace the Crankcase breather filter and the crankcase pressure sensor because the same code was popping up before, but went away after the filter and sensor were replaced, and resurfaced after cleaning out the egr cooler. It happens in hilly terrains mainly, (side note, I replaced the fan clutch because it was extremely loud and the truck would seem to be under a load as soon as I take of, empty or loaded). Had regen issues prior, but rectified those by cleaning egr valve and replacing associated sensors in december last year (thanks Rawze). Did a reclean on egr valve when cleaning egr cooler last month. When performing stationary regen, I notice my turbo speed doesn't get above 28,000rpm. I'm wondering if since cleaing the egr cooler(this was completely plugged up and took two soakings with the egr cooler cleaner, and a power washer after the second soaking to get it clean), the increased air flow has anything to do with the crankcase pressure code. I believe there is a deeper issue, don't know where to start, except I believe my problem may be with air intake........I don't have extensive knowledge of the airflow system and all components involved with it and how they impact each other.......also wondering if air compressor could be a contributor.....thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.

[Lonestar10]

crank case pressure can be caused by a failed aircompressor, failed cylinder(s), and Failed turbo shaft seals as far as i can remember....and possibly valve stem seals if the valve guides and seals are completely blown out.

[Rawze]

why not just drill out the CC filter and eliminate it?
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

[Ryda]

(05-23-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  crank case pressure can be caused by a failed aircompressor, failed cylinder(s), and Failed turbo shaft seals as far as i can remember....and possibly valve stem seals if the valve guides and seals are completely blown out.

Thanks Lonestar10, I'm hoping/thinking it's not the turbo since the turbo and actuator were both replaced last august and currently have only 25-30k on it. I didn't know what to look for, but when I removed the air intake to do the oil cooler, nothing suspicious was there, it looked clean but i didn't try to spin the turbine. While driving the turbo spins up to 80,000 rpm so I'm thinking it's doing it's job.....forgot to mention that the truck seems to hang in gear when gearing down (it's an automatic). It builds air fully, but it does so slowly, I'll have to monitor that more closely and see how long it takes to get to 120 psi from startup and try to check the air compressor more closely, and probably replace the governor. If valve guides and seals are blown, what would be the signs (visible or operation) of that?

[Ryda]

(05-23-2020 )Rawze Wrote:  why not just drill out the CC filter and eliminate it?
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

Thanks Rawze, I wasn't aware of drilling a hole in the filter. I'm going to do that to see how much it helps. Should I just go ahead and replace the filter or you think drilling the hole in the current filter should be fine? Also, do you know how fast the turbo should be spinning while I'm idling?

[hhow55]

(05-24-2020 )Ryda Wrote:  

(05-23-2020 )Rawze Wrote:  why not just drill out the CC filter and eliminate it?
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

Thanks Rawze, I wasn't aware of drilling a hole in the filter. I'm going to do that to see how much it helps. Should I just go ahead and replace the filter or you think drilling the hole in the current filter should be fine? Also, do you know how fast the turbo should be spinning while I'm idling?

BTW, a maintenance free cc filter is available.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...50#pid8950

[Ryda]

(05-24-2020 )hhow55 Wrote:  

(05-24-2020 )Ryda Wrote:  

(05-23-2020 )Rawze Wrote:  why not just drill out the CC filter and eliminate it?
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

Thanks Rawze, I wasn't aware of drilling a hole in the filter. I'm going to do that to see how much it helps. Should I just go ahead and replace the filter or you think drilling the hole in the current filter should be fine? Also, do you know how fast the turbo should be spinning while I'm idling?

BTW, a maintenance free cc filter is available.

http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...50#pid8950

Thanks for the help.....I drilled a 1/4 on either side of the back end of the filter and put it back in place. The element seemed fairly clean, not overly saturated so I believe it should be good. Checked for blockages all lines are clear, so I'll see what it does when I take it out again. My cc filter sits on top of the engine, and is completely different from the one in the article you posted but I would assume there is a version for my engine so I'll track that down. Thanks again for the input.

[Ryda]

(05-24-2020 )Ryda Wrote:  

(05-23-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  crank case pressure can be caused by a failed aircompressor, failed cylinder(s), and Failed turbo shaft seals as far as i can remember....and possibly valve stem seals if the valve guides and seals are completely blown out.

Thanks Lonestar10, I'm hoping/thinking it's not the turbo since the turbo and actuator were both replaced last august and currently have only 25-30k on it. I didn't know what to look for, but when I removed the air intake to do the oil cooler, nothing suspicious was there, it looked clean but i didn't try to spin the turbine. While driving the turbo spins up to 80,000 rpm so I'm thinking it's doing it's job.....forgot to mention that the truck seems to hang in gear when gearing down (it's an automatic). It builds air fully, but it does so slowly, I'll have to monitor that more closely and see how long it takes to get to 120 psi from startup and try to check the air compressor more closely, and probably replace the governor. If valve guides and seals are blown, what would be the signs (visible or operation) of that?

I tried to do a cylinder cutout test using insite today and when trying to run on one cylinder, the truck cuts right off. So would that mean that my problem can be anything ranging from injector wiring to the cylinders themselves?

[Unilevers]

run the cutout at 1000 rpm instead of idle