CM871 kickin my Butt

[RustyWood]

Reading what I wrote, some readers will probably mistake what I said, I rev my engines occasionally when parked or coasting if that car has a limiter unless moving, yet drive very reserved using little pedal. It makes a big difference in my 1992 Convertible running better after some good hard Revs which clears the spark plugs.

My Dad's truck blew smoke like crazy at first as the carbon build up was breaking up, and blow out the more I revved it, and slowly it smoked less and less with revving it, funny cause he'd have panicked if he'd been around when I did this, he's got that old mentality from being a mechanic in the 50's, but he came back from driving his truck and said "Wow, it's running way better, asking me what I did" lol told him he idles around town and this truck never see's any RPM, it needs to get revved once in awhile. :)

[Rawze]

(05-27-2020 )RustyWood Wrote:  My ESN 79287222, ...

You ave a CPL2732 and your original program is AV10057. (400HP, Smart Torque)

The question now becomes 2-fold...

A). What program did someone shove into your ecm?. and is it actually 100% compatible?

and...

B). Do you have the old style DPF canister or the new style?. You need to look at the part# on the DPF to find out. Here is a similar post that includes the reference sheet from cummins...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...7#pid45177

What program it takes requires knowing the answer to "B". What is the actual part# stamped into the side of the DPF element?. - The part# should start with a "469....." or "528....." or "529...." number.

Knowing what program is actually in it would be the 1 million dollar question though, so that you know where it stands.

[RustyWood]

Rawze thanks so much for your time, I took 2 pictures when Dave was showing me my program on his Insite, and since I can't remember how to post pictures I'll type what I see here, also I just checked the DPF can and it looks like the Data plate is missing, I just put it back together yesterday and only just now noticed a slightly shiner rectangle where I think it was, but it is the large 12" size.

Anyhoo, the 2 pictures Dave said I'd want,
under folder System Information:
Advertised Power at RPM = 475 HP
Advertised Power RPM = 1800 RPM
Control Parts List = 3748
Fuel Code = FC0P820
Governed Speed = 2100 RPM
Peak Torque at RPM = 1650 Ft/Lbs
Peak Torque RPM = 1200 RPM

OEM Info Folder
OEM Name = Kenworth
OEM Vehicle Model = T2000
VIN / ESN = 239959J
Veh or Equp Year = 10-2009
Accelerator IntLock = Disable
Accelerator Options = Blank
Dual Accelerator = Enable
Adjustable Low Idle Speed = 700 RPM
Low Idle Spped Adjust. = Enable
Aftertreatment
Diesel Particulate Filter = Blank
Active Regen in PTO = Disable and my picture is clipped there on that one.

Picture 2
System ID & Data Plate
Calibration Software Phase = 8000063
Cal Time/Date Stamp = 070213185234
DO Option = 1496
ECM Code = AV10235. 10
Other options = Blank
SC Option = 12062
Customer Info
Customer Location = Redding, Ca
Customer Name = Hemsteds
Customer Unit # = 9
ECM Info
ECM NAme = CM871
ECM Part # = 3684275
ECM Serial # = 5008588
Engine Info
Engine Build Date = 122107
Engine Make = CMMNS
Engine Model = 6X1u07D15000
ESN = 79287222 and that's where that picture cuts off.

This is as much as I know about this truck, don't know who Hemsted is but I was told by seller it was used to haul Stage Equipment. I don't know if that means a Band owned it or some other type "Stage Equipment", but the truck was in very nice shape.

I'm reading your link on Increasing Horsepower, very amazing the knowledge you have, and great experience with these engines and I thank you very much for your time, if you are ever in my Neck of the Woods in North Idaho, just North of Coeur'd Alene the Beers and Dinner is on us, maybe with your training I can be a help ISX Owners in a pinch in this area when I'm home.

[Rawze]

AV10235 assumes the newer style of DPF element. The part# for DPf is on the canister, you just need to find it. Maybe use a scotch-brite pad and clean it off.

Assuming for a moment you have the newer canister. Comparing the AV10216 (the update to your original AV10057 program that the engine and truck requires) to AV10235 reveals the following...

* the AV103235 program in your ecm has heavier fuel restrictions imposed based on air density. This could effect power levels / make it feel weaker in cold weather at lower altitudes compared to the AV10216 program.

* when comparing power and torque, the 2 programs are exactly the same from 0 - 1400rpm. there will be no difference at all in how much the engine load can handle below 1400 rpm. Above 1400 rpm, the HP is a bit higher in the AV10235 program. The only benefit you will be able to notice at all by using this alternate program will be above 1500 rpm.

* The horsepower peaks at exactly 1600 rpm @ 474.9 hp. It falls off below this rpm, and above it.

* The 2 programs are identical in every regard otherwise, and are 100% compatible with each other.

[dhirocz]

Odd. Other than the year we have basically the same truck. Been a pretty good truck to me, just got to take care of it.

Definitely keep up with the gear oil. I ate the valve cam at 685k. Took some advice from the trusted members of the board here, and most importantly, used common sense and questioned every aspect of the convential owner operators business model and I've ended up doing ok. Took a truck that wasn't very profitable, rolled up my sleeves and managed to do well with it.

I've listened to some trash out there from KR and Pittsburgh Power and read what there is out there to read and now that I've been doing this for awhile, it's easy to look back and realize that these people are full of it. In the grand scheme of things, they aren't much different than Cummins, the stealership, the EPA, etc...just coming up with a different excuse to make a few bucks off you.

What I need to know that I can't figure out on my own I can ask here and trust that I get good answers. Ignore the rest of the Riff Raff.

As far as HP goes, mine was turned up to 485 and even after driving it nicely, at 850k it's about done, head is worn out. Maybe that can give you a rough idea of what you have left. Any initial gains I felt in power didn't last too long, probably 50k.

What I think is strange is you have a 2009 T2000 made in 10-2009, but I have a 2010 but it was made 03-2009.

[RustyWood]

(05-27-2020 )dhirocz Wrote:  Odd. Other than the year we have basically the same truck. Been a pretty good truck to me, just got to take care of it.

Definitely keep up with the gear oil. I ate the valve cam at 685k. Took some advice from the trusted members of the board here, and most importantly, used common sense and questioned every aspect of the convential owner operators business model and I've ended up doing ok. Took a truck that wasn't very profitable, rolled up my sleeves and managed to do well with it.

I've listened to some trash out there from KR and Pittsburgh Power and read what there is out there to read and now that I've been doing this for awhile, it's easy to look back and realize that these people are full of it. In the grand scheme of things, they aren't much different than Cummins, the stealership, the EPA, etc...just coming up with a different excuse to make a few bucks off you.

What I need to know that I can't figure out on my own I can ask here and trust that I get good answers. Ignore the rest of the Riff Raff.

Excellent, thanks for any advice on the T2000, I wanted this truck from the space the cabin has cause I plan my wife will be traveling with me one day when she retires and hell I can keep a 30" cooler between the armrests, fridge was gone. Over the last year and a half owning this big truck, I've pretty closely read and watched a lot of what Rawze has put out there to find he's a straight shooter and really, really knows his stuff and easily built my confidence to get all the education I can from him. I hope to meet Master Jedi one day ! :)

As an O'O, you start getting lot's and lot's of advice, and you really do have to sift through what's good and not good. Tried talking to my friend about KR, and he still feels after listen to it for 12 years he says, he thinks there's value from so many call ins they have, but I have built more trust in this forum and far all I know, call in's could be setup's, I don't even have an XM radio, I'd rather listen to music when driving, hell I don't even have a CB.

My truck does seem pretty happy above 1400, so I cruise about 1450 at about 63-65mph and tap off the cruise to the slightest little mound going over a road and hold it, let the truck drop speed instead of letting it mash the pedal down. I swear everyone passes me, :) I rarely pass someone. Talking to a long nose driver in our company, he told me he budget's about $2200. a week in fuel, and I about swallowed my tongue, I'm never even close to that much.

Thanks Rawze for the input on my program, it may not be optimal but at lease it sounds from what you said, I'm not in any immediate fear I'm damaging my engine. I don't need more power, I'd rather have reliability as I don't drive fast.

[RustyWood]

Found my DPF & Catalyst #'s

#'s on DPF E PN Q621505
PN is 4965319
Date 248

Catalyst E PN A030W858
C PN 2888249

[Rawze]

(05-27-2020 )RustyWood Wrote:  Found my DPF & Catalyst #'s

#'s on DPF E PN Q621505
PN is 4965319
Date 248

Catalyst E PN A030W858
C PN 2888249

You should be running program AV10182 (old style DPF), not AV10235(new style DPF). according to all documentation, you have the wrong program in your ecm for that model DPF canister. That part# 4965319 you gave me is the old style, so keep that in mind if your unable to keep it very happy.

[RustyWood]

Leak Tester arrived last night, and Yep, I have 2 bad Injectors that I tested today #2 & #4, it amazes me that shop supposedly replaced #3 Injector but then had no idea why my truck still ran terrible and they gave up, and I took my Truck out of their shop before their parts guessing got my bill any higher than $5609. and they call themselves total truck shop, yet they're rear lot is full of nothing but Volvo's. LOL.. I think they're a good shop for those trucks but obviously not too skilled with ISX's. I had them drop my Trans, and replace rear main seal and a few other things just about a month earlier and they did well with that, so I thought they could fix my issue since I was coming down into town on their side with a Lumber load.

It's just hard to believe that it was running great, and whammo, I had the VG plate freeze in the Turbo and now 3 Injectors all go bad at the same time?

It was very strange when it went bad, it actually sounded metallic and it felt like it was in the Trans broke under me and something went bad in the trans, then quickly switched up to the engine not sounding right, and the metallic sound went away and it was just lumpy like 3 cylinders went out.

Do you guys think getting back into town that 45 miles or so chuggin like a slug is what made Injectors go bad or could that much stuff go bad in one shot, is driving on a bad Turbo that detrimental to Injector Health and caused all this ?

Ah, DHL just got here with my Inline 6 kit, I've heard some say to get an old Laptop, is that because new ones like mine don't have a 9 pin serial, but I see this kit comes with a USB adapter, shouldn't that work ok, or have any of you seen it just works better to serial?