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Full Version: CM871 kickin my Butt
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Hi Guys
So just over a year and a half ago, I bought a 2009 Kenworth T2000 with a CM871 at 624K miles, and started my researching what I could find to learn about this engine before I put it on the road. I'm an old hot rodder car home mechanic, so I'm only just learning this Big Truck.

I quickly and MOST appreciatively found Rawze's Videos on YouTube and this forum of his and did the full EGR Clean on my Truck before putting it on the road. Replaced IMAP, P-Diff, pressure washed everything from EGR to Intake and baked them good. Man did she run Great for awhile and I attribute so much to Rawze and his knowledge on this engine for me doing great thus far as I had no clue of these Big Diesel's.

I don't Idle if I can help it, and I've been doing 15k mile Oil changes with Rotella to keep the Soot levels to a minimum and my Truck is completely Stock with all emissions garbage in place.

I live on the Idaho Side from Spokane Washington, so I'm very far away from Rawze and a lot of you experts, so I'm kinda on my own to fix it as I've not had much luck finding a good shop around here.

Anyway, my Truck started running like I've lost some cylinders. I had a shop run me up $5609. and replacing Turbo which I verified the VG plate frozen, and they did Injector #3, but finally put their arms in the air with no idea's admitting they didn't know Cummins that Good and it's still running like crap.

I've watched the Cylinder Cut out Tests so I ordered but still waiting for my Diagnostic Cables Set with Insite.
I'm at 713K now, and I've taken all 4 Fuel Actuators apart, they are still painted RED, but weren't too dirty inside, and 3 have 3.4 deflection on dial indicator, 1 was about 2.2 I cleaned the shafts, put back in and still running like crap. Upon seeing the Video of an IMAP full of crap again of the guy who'd only done 80k since his replacement, I removed mine and found mine and the EGR track of good'n'plenty quite loaded again with soot only going 90k on my truck.

But here's the thing, and I greatly appreciate any of you helping me. I have disconnected from the EGR and line from Intercooler to Intake Air Horn, removed Air Horn to Head and started Engine with the rectangular intake Opening at engine open, and I can still tell engine acts like it's down cylinders. I don't have diagnostics ability yet, but wouldn't this mean it must be the Fueling Actuators, either a timing or metering ??? Also, I'd like to pick 2 new ones up but even Cummins website shows they are not available now??? Is this what you guys are seeing, are these dang things not available anymore ?

Thanks in advance for any help guys, and thanks Rawze for all you've put out there, many of us would be no where without your Videos and Info.
Russ W. in North Idaho
Adjust the overhead valves and injectors then do an injector leak test ...



When the motor is in framed properly, and the correct tune is installed, the CM-871 is a pretty darn good motor...
Thanks Rawze, a couple weeks before this thing went south, I had watched your video on this and opened the cap to check my Jake's lash as I've felt my trucks Jake Brake is half as strong as it should be, compared to a 2016 ProStar I was in as a company driver before, but lash wasn't too badly out, so I'm thinking maybe one of the Jake Solenoids has failed, I think I've caught in a video of either you or someone else saying there is testing of them in insite once I can hookup to my truck.

I did just read that you've stated the lash tightens down as these engines age causing Cam Wear, so hopefully tomorrow I won't have a windy rainy day and I'll get on that.

That shop my truck was at also said it wouldn't do the RE-Gen, so I opened the line off the turbo to hit the doser with some cleaner, but I started at that time also with exhaust disconnected and still I could tell down cylinders (lump lump lump) so that removed DPF clogged from a cause, yet I plan to still pressure wash the DOC & DPF.

Thanks for the input, I will have to closely examine my cams as I'm worried now, not in this long enough to afford an in-frame yet without borrowing $$. I've watched a lot of your videos on your rebuild, it almost makes me feel I might be able to rebuild mine one day, but I'm not that confident yet, Smile I just wanted this thing to get me 2 years profitting before I had to rebuild it.

It's really hard to accept putting this back together with that dang Soot puffer back onto my intake again and would really like to stop that.

Once I can start learning Insite and seeing what you can monitor, perhaps I'll learn some tricks, anyone with good info that doesn't want to post can email me at [email protected]

Again Thanks,
Russ
Don’t wash those cans with water. Maybe compressed air if anything. You wash them once, you’ll be wishing for a demandate quickly. The regen quality will be greatly reduced and you’ll end up having a bigger problem. Best thing would be to get them cleaned at the right machine at the dealer and fix the spot problem. Prob is more than one issue causing too much soot, likely an accumulation of problems.
(05-21-2020 )hookliftpete Wrote: [ -> ]Don’t wash those cans with water. Maybe compressed air if anything. You wash them once, you’ll be wishing for a demandate quickly. The regen quality will be greatly reduced and you’ll end up having a bigger problem. Best thing would be to get them cleaned at the right machine at the dealer and fix the spot problem. Prob is more than one issue causing too much soot, likely an accumulation of problems.

Ok, thanks, did you find this out from personal experience? I've just seen lots of folks cleaning them that way on YouTube, some even stated they'd stopped using the expensive machines built for cleaning the DPF's costing us Truckers again on something unnecessary as pressure washing seemed to be working fine and it was hyped up that these things had to have special cleaning. So I've not been so sure, it seems like it should be fine to pressure wash, and blow out with my shop vac or air compressor.
Yes, I washed mine several times, after which it would no longer regen correctly. I ended up having to drill holes in the cans to keep them from clogging up too fast, and had to remove and clean them about every 5k mikes. I’m beyond these issues now, but it’s no fun if you wash them. The age of the engine, how much oil it burns, coolant use, etc as well as other issues will cause increased regens to the point at whic it will become very hard to maintain the system without spending yourself blind...
Washing rapidly decays the precious metals rapidly in the doc if everyone on YouTube said putting sand in your oil would increase you fuel mileage would you do that to? YT is 90% shite 8% misleading and 2% ok info. Good luck finding the 2%
(05-22-2020 )RustyWood Wrote: [ -> ]... seen lots of folks cleaning them that way on YouTube
..

STOP WATCHING IDIOTS ON YOUTUBE WITH IDIOTIC BULLS$IT METHODS!!!!!!

Educate yourself and stop doing things that are well known to be problematic just because you want to save a few hundred bucks!
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