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Rawze

The style of pump makes zero difference whatsoever. They all fail (all common rail ISX models), even the newest style found on the 2020 model X15 engine.

aside from that .... Your post seems to imply that you would trust your entire engine destroying itself based on some sort of "Paint peeling off" assumption?

- You stated that your engine has more than 400k miles on it .... you purchased the truck and have not serviced it yet .... Pull the head off it .. replace its guts for a few hundred bucks ... does not matter what the parts look like or if they show any wear or not ... they fail without any warning ... Do the right thing call it a day. Otherwise, it is your engine funeral, or at the very least, likely an inframe + a gigantic mess trying to get all the metal shavings out of the entire engine block, throwing away the oil cooler, replacing bottom end bearings, overhead cams, possibly face gears, etc.etc.etc. and many days of down time/headaches when it goes.

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medseg2003

(01-07-2021 )Rawze Wrote: The style of pump makes zero difference whatsoever. They all fail (all common rail ISX models), even the newest style found on the 2020 model X15 engine.

aside from that .... Your post seems to imply that you would trust your entire engine destroying itself based on some sort of "Paint peeling off" assumption?

- You stated that your engine has more than 400k miles on it .... you purchased the truck and have not serviced it yet .... Pull the head off it .. replace its guts for a few hundred bucks ... does not matter what the parts look like or if they show any wear or not ... they fail without any warning ... Do the right thing call it a day. Otherwise, it is your engine funeral, or at the very least, likely an inframe + a gigantic mess trying to get all the metal shavings out of the entire engine block, throwing away the oil cooler, replacing bottom end bearings, overhead cams, possibly face gears, etc.etc.etc. and many days of down time/headaches when it goes.

.

You totally right, i went today to freightliner they couldn't find any issue. I told them to pull the head and replace those barrels and plungers and tappets. They said ok, after 30 minutes they come to me they say they will not do it ,they want to replace whole pump.and $1300 just for labor plus part $2000 for labor.
I went to the part department to buy just the part.they said they don't have it in stock. Then i went to cummins they were very friendly they told they will do it .also he came out to look at it and said probably this is been replaced, and he advise me that they can inspect it and see if it needs replacement or has any issue than they will replace it. Any way i will take back to them next week apt and have them to replace those parts.
He was such a nice guy he also print repair history for my truck when it was under warranty

thx

SquareOne

It's hard to tell in the pic, but it seems to me like it's the original pump. The heads of the bolts don't seem to have any paint missing from being removed and installed. The paint peeling could have easily been initiated by time and/or a pressure washer.

I literally just replaced the guts of mine again on Monday. I have a 2350. The total parts cost was $464.49. Thats everything needed to rebuild it properly. Barrel/plunger , tappets, head gasket, and a few sealing rings for the 2 banjo bolts.

When I first bought the truck (Feb 2019), I went ahead and opened the pump and replaced the tappets. The barrel/plunger wasn't available at that time without purchasing the entire head assembly. Upon inspection, the original barrel/plunger assembly operated properly and looked fantastic. When I put the truck down at the end of 2020 for maintenance, I went ahead and opened the pump up again and replaced everything. Everything once again (with 440k miles) looked fantastic and easily would have been able to be reused according to Cummins. For under $500, there was no way I was going to put the pump back together without replacing everything again.

My point is..... dive into this and get it taken care of. Like Rawze and many others have said, the low fuel rail pressure code is usually too late. That $464 and a few hours of labor will rapidly turn into 25k+ and weeks of down time!

JimT

So, forgive me if I repeat something already mentioned, I only skimmed a few of the posts.

While the fuel pump is a high priority to address, I don't think it has anything to do with your original issue.

I've experienced something similar to what you described and I have a friend with a freightliner that had the same experience. Most likely it's one of 2 problems:

- Bad or broken battery cables.

My experience was a broken battery cable that would short out inside my aluminum battery box. Same symptoms, usually hit a bump just the right way an I'd lose power briefly like the key was shut off then it would come right back to life. Check all your connections and battery cables.

- There's some kind of power distribution module in the freightliner that likes to go bad.

I'm recalling what my friend told me, so maybe someone else can chime in with details. Basically takes the power from the battery and splits it off for the different systems. They go bad and intermittently lose power. I *think* it's located in the engine compartment, driver side on the firewall and from what my friend said it can be a pain to reach.

Otherwise, if it's neither of those it could also be a bad fuse or maybe even a bad ground wire. Finally, though not likely, the ECM could be going bad. It's hard to reach on a cm2250 so trying to tap it might be a challenge. I'd focus on the first two wiring issues though, as that's almost certainly where the problem lies.

Rawze

(01-07-2021 )medseg2003 Wrote: ...
You totally right, i went today to freightliner they couldn't find any issue.
...

Then i went to cummins they were very friendly they told they will do it
...
advise me that they can inspect it and see if it needs replacement or has any issue than they will replace it.
...

(back to the subject of your fuel pump due for rebuild)...

your post screams some huge red flags there...

YOUR NEXT PROBLEM is that your TAKING IT TO THE MOST CLUELESS f$$ktard morons on the planet ... YOU TAKING IT TO THE OEM SHOPS OF DEATH AND UNDERTRAINED IDIOT SQUADS!!!!!!!!

-- YOU NEED TO DO THIS YOURSELF --- BUY THE TOOLS AND DO IT!!!! ... or take it to a shop that ACTUALLY REPLACES THE GUYS instead of some complete gaggle of retards who are going to do nothing but lighten your wallet for $15+/hour, rip you off, do a half.arssed job of it that will have to be re-done again because os some in-a-hurry, speed-gun-happy clueless oem-trained idiot!.

YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKES ARE TAKING THAT TRUCK TO AN OEM REPAIR SHOP FOR ANYTHING @!!!! -- AND I MEAN ANYTHING!!!!

If you don't learn to turn a wrench on that engine and truck then you will always have problems... and always be broke half the time giving all your money away.

medseg2003

(01-08-2021 )JimT Wrote: So, forgive me if I repeat something already mentioned, I only skimmed a few of the posts.

While the fuel pump is a high priority to address, I don't think it has anything to do with your original issue.

I've experienced something similar to what you described and I have a friend with a freightliner that had the same experience. Most likely it's one of 2 problems:

- Bad or broken battery cables.

My experience was a broken battery cable that would short out inside my aluminum battery box. Same symptoms, usually hit a bump just the right way an I'd lose power briefly like the key was shut off then it would come right back to life. Check all your connections and battery cables.

- There's some kind of power distribution module in the freightliner that likes to go bad.

I'm recalling what my friend told me, so maybe someone else can chime in with details. Basically takes the power from the battery and splits it off for the different systems. They go bad and intermittently lose power. I *think* it's located in the engine compartment, driver side on the firewall and from what my friend said it can be a pain to reach.

Otherwise, if it's neither of those it could also be a bad fuse or maybe even a bad ground wire. Finally, though not likely, the ECM could be going bad. It's hard to reach on a cm2250 so trying to tap it might be a challenge. I'd focus on the first two wiring issues though, as that's almost certainly where the problem lies.

Yes i just bought it they call it pndb module it distribute power to the truck. Also i bought the kill switch. I will replace them to day aswell thx

medseg2003

(01-08-2021 )Rawze Wrote:
(01-07-2021 )medseg2003 Wrote: ...
You totally right, i went today to freightliner they couldn't find any issue.
...

Then i went to cummins they were very friendly they told they will do it
...
advise me that they can inspect it and see if it needs replacement or has any issue than they will replace it.
...

(back to the subject of your fuel pump due for rebuild)...

your post screams some huge red flags there...

YOUR NEXT PROBLEM is that your TAKING IT TO THE MOST CLUELESS f$$ktard morons on the planet ... YOU TAKING IT TO THE OEM SHOPS OF DEATH AND UNDERTRAINED IDIOT SQUADS!!!!!!!!

-- YOU NEED TO DO THIS YOURSELF --- BUY THE TOOLS AND DO IT!!!! ... or take it to a shop that ACTUALLY REPLACES THE GUYS instead of some complete gaggle of retards who are going to do nothing but lighten your wallet for $15+/hour, rip you off, do a half.arssed job of it that will have to be re-done again because os some in-a-hurry, speed-gun-happy clueless oem-trained idiot!.

YOUR BIGGEST MISTAKES ARE TAKING THAT TRUCK TO AN OEM REPAIR SHOP FOR ANYTHING @!!!! -- AND I MEAN ANYTHING!!!!

If you don't learn to turn a wrench on that engine and truck then you will always have problems... and always be broke half the time giving all your money away.

I just took the fuel pump head out and guess what it has that ceramic plangers they r not broken or damaged also i can see nothing on tappets they r smooth and free of any damage, i am concerned about fuel pump head i put some air pressure using air pump one of them move up and down and the other is not moving at all do you thing it s fuel pump head need to be replaced? Or just barrels and plungers ? Thx

Rawze

(01-12-2021 )medseg2003 Wrote: I just took the fuel pump head out and guess what it has that ceramic plangers they r not broken or damaged also i can see nothing on tappets they r smooth and free of any damage, i am concerned about fuel pump head i put some air pressure using air pump one of them move up and down and the other is not moving at all do you thing it s fuel pump head need to be replaced? Or just barrels and plungers ? Thx

You need to go play the lottery.... you have gotten VERY VERY lucky .. that pump head was built before may of 2013... it is that old.

REPLACE the tappets, plungers, and barrels/rollers ... a set of all 3 ... I.E.> all the guts above the pump crankshaft.

By taking it apart, you just saved your engine's life... and if one of the plungers is not moving freely ... then it was right on that very edge of cracking, flaking, etc.. and destroying the entire engine.

JimT

Rawze is correct, you just won the lottery. If one of those plungers was stuck then it was only a matter of time before it started to crack and break off into your engine.